MEP-803A and water, a rebuild story...Hopefully!!!

[Bluevic443]

If you could, would also love to see what you are using for a parts cleaner. Looking to do something similar and ideas are appreciated!!!

This is what I have been using. Works great.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/crown-psc-1000-parts-cleaner-5-gal?cm_vc=-10005

The parts washer tank is like this one that comes from "CHINA". The pump died long ago. I modified it to drain into a 2 gallon bucket with the recirc pump. Just use 1 gallon at a time till it is dirty and nasty. Filter it through a paint strainer and keep in a separate sealed container because it does evaporate.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/jobsmart-parts-washer-20-gal-tank-capacity?cm_vc=IOPDP1

 

[Ray70]

On a side note, your machine is probably the "Best" looking water logged machine I've seen. Looks like it probably didn't sit very long with all that water in it. I've had several that probably sat for years! My cylinder bore were pitted severely, pistons were frozen etc.
Yours looks like very minimal rust in the cylinders, so despite all the extra work, you actually lucked out compared to how it could have been. The good news is that once complete you will have a virtually brand new engine!
Good luck with it!

 

[Bluevic443]

Don't beat yourself up too much by not seeing the exhaust flapper. There is not one to be seen when a refrigeration unit generator is removed from refrigeration unit or is not placed in the stowed position in the refrigeration container. It has a vertical exhaust pipe that mates to the elbow on your generator, the exhaust flapper sits up top on the extended exhaust pipe attached to the refrigeration unit and is NOT part of the generator.

So the flapper that sits up top on the refrigeration unit must have been damaged and didn't close or was somehow knocked off but you would never see that without a photo of the refrigeration unit the generator was pulled from. The only clue you missed was what you already mentioned earlier about the auction note: "Limited function check: Engine Seized". Regardless, the pictures would all look the same (no exhaust flapper to be seen) from any unit removed from a refrigeration unit.

PDF Pg # 172 in the below linked manual describes the connection procedure of exhaust extension in the stowed position.

https://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-55-8145-221-14-and-P.pdf

Also, note that the generator was always run in the 208v 3 phase configuration to run the refrigeration unit. So, be sure to set the AC reconfiguration switch to the 120/240v 1 phase setting whenever you load test the unit.

Found a pic of an actual reefer unit

Think I understand why there was a little door cut into the control cover. You open the little door first to let the main door clear that piece of structure as you swing it open to start the generator.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Its destiny that this generator found its way to you! You seem to be enjoying the necropsy and resurrecting it from its watery grave!

Turn up Pandora and soldier on!

 

[JeremyWigmore]

Found a pic of an actual reefer unit
View attachment 805402
Think I understand why there was a little door cut into the control cover. You open the little door first to let the main door clear that piece of structure as you swing it open to start the generator.

Thanks for this picture: my 803a has the same modifications to the front panel and exhaust (albeit, mine has an exhaust flap) and I couldn't visualize the application which needed these modification.

Cheers,

J

 

[Guyfang]

You will never find the mod parts in the TM's for the gen set. Have to look at the reefer books.

 

[Bluevic443]

Scored today!!!! Took the family to visit the Grandparents in Georgetown. I alway check the local Facebook Market Place and Craig’s List.
retired military Freighliner fuel tank. 29”x45” works out to 130gal full. Slightly dented on the bottom and no brackets. $40.00

 

[uniquify]

Nice score! That ought to extend your runtime quite a bit.

 

[robson1015]

Makes me wonder if a hot water tank would work as a fuel tank ???

 

[Chainbreaker]

Very nice find! Round aluminum tanks are nice. The valley at the bottom makes it easy to drain off any water & sediment and with aluminum you won't ever have to worry about tank rusting out.

Not sure how you plan to install/mount it & if your going to build your own mounting scheme (stand, cradle, cart, etc.) or if you plan to use off the shelf parts to secure it...

My Auxiliary Tank Project may provide some inspiration for mounting. The below link has parts listed at the bottom of it to give you some ideas. As I recall there is a similar page for Freightliner fuel tanks

Aluminum Reefer Tank - 60 Gallon Reefer Tank - 4 State Trucks

Shop Aluminum Reefer Tank - 50 Gallon Reefer Tank at 4 State Trucks.

www.4statetrucks.com

 

[Bluevic443]

Makes me wonder if a hot water tank would work as a fuel tank ???

Every old hot water tank that I ever messed with was so rusted out on the inside and full of hard water deposits. Was most likely leaking at the welds when removed. Old expired horizontal propane tank would make a good fixed location tank, but then you would have to render it safe to weld on.

 

[mciikurzroot]

Wow you're a demon for punishment but we are proud of you for your diligence and to keeping most of this in perspective between family, work and fun.
But I am going to take advantage of your experience and list the sets i have for sale based on your experience.
For Sale 5ea. MEP-803a sets to choose from, these sets are all original hours, each one starts and runs and makes power, no set has any damaged sheetmetal or outside panels/covers, sets interior very clean, all still have the breakin oil .. no set has more that 43 operating hours, each set has a rain flapper {small humor at Bluevic443's expense, but not intended as sarcasm at all.} One or two sets it seems like either the fuel level or oil pressure gage is not working. Each set will need batteries as best i recall. I will furnish correct batteries if you want at cost. BUT i don't recommend or advise it, Sam's club offers correct batteries and a full 3 year warranty no questions asked, BUT only to the original buyer. I can fully load test any set with a real loadbank in as small as 1kw steps. All sets can be loaded here with no effort onto whatever it is that is towed or driven here. Or i can ship as you provide. Flat selling price, no extra fee's or tax, no bullshit pricing. $2,750.00 each. OPTIONS available ? Trailers some sets came on the trailer where the trailer had 2 sets fixed mounted, the trailer is available for $150.00 good tires and no cracked tires, best I recall each trailer tongue has been turned over to more closely match the truck bumper towing height.

I have 3 each MEP-804a 1ea. and or 804b 2ea. sets all are TAN in color same conditions as the above listing descriptions only nothing over 37 hours these sets are priced at $3,000.00 each and some trailers can be had at $150.00 each and again i can fully loadbank any set.

Feel free to contact me at my preferred email of : libbysales@austin.rr.com or text and i can send pictures from 512~878-7985

Thank you for your interest: mac/mc located in central Texas {Wimberley}
4 of the sets are Green one is Tan

 

[Bluevic443]

Well this adventure might have come to an end Brought a cylinder hone back with me to clean up the bores to see if they need to be bored over. Focused on #3 and 4 because they were the ones with standing water. #4 cleaned up nice. #3 did not. Think I found out why the oil was soooooo black.

Nice crack the full length of the stroke. It is in the webbing between #2 and 3 but not all the way into the #2 cylinder. The #3 piston shows no signs of damage.
Question: Has anyone installed sleeves in these motors, or is it scrap?

 

[Guyfang]

I beleve several folks have installed sleeves. Who? Can not remember. Maybe they will chime in here.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Wow, that looks quite odd! Wonder what caused a crack like that to form in that section of sleeve only and no piston damage? Maybe that cylinder had water in it and froze to the point the expansion formed a crack there with piston at bottom of stroke...?

 

[Ray70]

A good machine shop can sleeve just about anything, it will probably come down to a matter of price.
If you can locate either a good short block or at least a good block it will probably be cheaper, but fixing yours is not out of the question, just need to consult a local machine shop.

 

[Bluevic443]

Wow, that looks quite odd! Wonder what caused a crack like that to form in that section of sleeve only and no piston damage? Maybe that cylinder had water in it and froze to the point the expansion formed a crack there with piston at bottom of stroke...?

Agree with you that is an odd spot for a crack. The #3 piston was stuck in the up position (TDC) and had just a little water. That made #4 at the bottom of the stroke and was plum full. The webbing between 2 and 3 is solid, no water jacketing or oil passages. This leads me to think that it is a stress crack in the casting. Looking at sleeving options, but it is looking more and more terminal

 

[Chainbreaker]

I once removed a sleeve in a 4 cylinder (1075 cc) aluminum motor cycle cylinder casting by hearing it up to 500 F in my wife's oven (she was not at home thank goodness). As I was taking the hot cylinder block out of the oven 1 of the sleeves literally slid out of cylinder and fell out in front of me on the kitchen floor! I did a quick dance with pot holder retrieval before it left a burn mark in floor! lol

Before deciding whether on not to abandon the block, I wonder if there is some way you could use a DIY method to remove the sleeve so you can inspect the casting before making a go/no-go decision on re-sleeving?

 

[Bluevic443]

I once removed a sleeve in a 4 cylinder (1075 cc) aluminum motor cycle cylinder casting by hearing it up to 500 F in my wife's oven (she was not at home thank goodness). As I was taking the hot cylinder block out of the oven 1 of the sleeves literally slid out of cylinder and fell out in front of me on the kitchen floor! I did a quick dance with pot holder retrieval before it left a burn mark in floor! lol

Before deciding whether on not to abandon the block, I wonder if there is some way you could use a DIY method to remove the sleeve so you can inspect the casting before making a go/no-go decision on re-sleeving?

I do not think that there are sleeves there from the factory (Lister). I took a flat stone and went over the top edge of the cylinder. The gasket shadow disappeared and all that was left was the swirl marks from the block being decked. The internet research I’ve done shows that most engines that have been sleeved have a greater webbing between cylinders. The gap between 2&3 is fairly thin.

 

[Chainbreaker]

I do not think that there are sleeves there from the factory (Lister). I took a flat stone and went over the top edge of the cylinder. The gasket shadow disappeared and all that was left was the swirl marks from the block being decked. The internet research I’ve done shows that most engines that have been sleeved have a greater webbing between cylinders. The gap between 2&3 is fairly thin.

Gosh, what was I thinking...of course its a non-sleeved cast iron block engine just looking at your pictures. Now, I see why others mention it would be pricey to sleeve it. You would have to have it machined to accept a sleeve. It's certainly not a press out re-sleeve job by any means! Hope you can find a short block as the rest of the generator "looks" good. But who knows if it has other issues/gremlins...