Newly Acquired 003A - Unknown Condition

[ckesey]

Flush the old fuel out of it asap. Clean out the tank and then add a gallon of diesel and a heavy dose of fuel additive.

After changing fuel filters.. prime the system and then let it sit for a few days. Re prime it a few times a day but let it sit.

There is a tiny piece in the injection pump that likes to get stuck and break if it's been sitting long. It's not bad to fix but if you can avoid it... Might as well.

If the linkage on the side of the pump is bound up/sticky.. I would just pull the injection pump and do a good cleaning. I've got a thread on rebuilding the pump. It's very straight forward.

After sitting a few days and all your fluids have been changed... You can attempt to start it. While waiting those days, it would be good to do some testing on the glow plugs system, etc.. and just get things cleaned up. Check the throttle control cable as they like to bind/freeze up over time.

If it puts out smoke after purging the air or starts... You're in good shape. Then you can test voltage output, battery charging voltage, etc.

If it doesn't start.. likely need to go through the injection pump. Again it's simple and parts are relatively cheap.

Anyways, good luck!

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I've been reading your write/breakdown of the IP and it seems fairly straightforward but still a little intimidating. Looks like a lot of parts in a small area. Really good detail and pictures. This post is/will be helpful for a lot of people. One question I have is is there any way of checking the plunger guide operation without tearing this IP down? Is cracking an injector line and checking for fuel the only way?

Thanks

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

I've been reading your write/breakdown of the IP and it seems fairly straightforward but still a little intimidating. Looks like a lot of parts in a small area. Really good detail and pictures. This post is/will be helpful for a lot of people. One question I have is is there any way of checking the plunger guide operation without tearing this IP down? Is cracking an injector line and checking for fuel the only way?

Thanks

I've heard recently that there is a way to check the plunger/guide before attempting to start a unit. If it is seized and you attempt to start the unit, the guide will break and a tear down will be required to repair. I'll do some digging and see what I can find as far as checking/unseizing the plunger while on the unit.

 

[Mr4btTahoe]

I've been reading your write/breakdown of the IP and it seems fairly straightforward but still a little intimidating. Looks like a lot of parts in a small area. Really good detail and pictures. This post is/will be helpful for a lot of people. One question I have is is there any way of checking the plunger guide operation without tearing this IP down? Is cracking an injector line and checking for fuel the only way?

Thanks

Check post #10

Need to purchase an MEP-003A injector pump

The good news is I went and picked up my MEP-003A at the end of last week - and thanks go to member Earth for being instrumental in its recovery. The unit appears reasonably clean, and develops good oil pressure while cranking. Inside the control cubicle it looks almost new. The bad news is...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[ckesey]

Check post #10

Need to purchase an MEP-003A injector pump

The good news is I went and picked up my MEP-003A at the end of last week - and thanks go to member Earth for being instrumental in its recovery. The unit appears reasonably clean, and develops good oil pressure while cranking. Inside the control cubicle it looks almost new. The bad news is...

www.steelsoldiers.com

Thanks you for this. I'll certainly give this a try/check before I begin rolling it over with the starter.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Also, check out post #6 in this thread. It the procedure I recalled when I referenced member Jamawieb in my post # 17 above.

 

[ckesey]

Well after several hours of cleaning, flushing and changing fluids (including 2 acid treatments to my rusty, making sure the IP wasn't stuck, and removing the fuel line from the IP and letting it flush fresh fuel through for several minutes).....she's a runner. It took 3 sessions of rolling the starter over @ about 15 seconds each but finally started showing signs of life. I also pried open the vents on the tank side and found where a rodent family had lived at one time.

I quickly measured power at the connections and only found 110v on one of the two legs. I'm the process of investigating this further but the selector switch seems to be in the correct position.

Thanks for all the advice and help.

 

[ckesey]

One more question....while I was holding the starter down I noticed that I was building oil pressure. After it started and now that it's running the needle is all the way past the 50 and can'tgo any further. Is this normal? As part of the pre-run maintenance I changed the oil and is in the normal level when I check it.

 

[Scoobyshep]

What weight oil did you use?

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[ckesey]

What weight oil did you use?

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I used Rotella 15w-40.

 

[ckesey]

Ive got 110v single phase between L3 and L0 but not between L1 and L0. For testing I flipped the switch over to 3 phase and had 110v on each leg except for L1. I took the panels off so I could get behind the breaker and tested the input side of the breaker and I have 110v. I opened and closed the breaker a few times fairly aggressively but still nothing. Seems like I've got a bad L1 position on this breaker.

 

[Scoobyshep]

Breaker, winding, or configuration switch

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[Ray70]

So you have 110V into the breaker, but were you able to test the output side of the breaker to confirm that power stops at the breaker and not further down the trail?

 

[ckesey]

So you have 110V into the breaker, but were you able to test the output side of the breaker to confirm that power stops at the breaker and not further down the trail?

When I take the access panel off it looks as though the output side of the breaker goes to the large terminals with a short piece of wire (aprox 1 ft). I'd like to double check this again since this breaker is $175 onine and want to make sure this will correct my problem.

I guess I could move the input/output leads from the dead pole to the unused pole (when in 120/240v single phase) on this breaker. I'm not a fan of hacking it if the breaker is truly the problem but I don't ever see me needing the 3 phase power either.