Red dot ac charging

[Dpas1973]

Yes, those are the two ports.
they are all you need to charge the system. Standard R134a hookups.


You will want to go over the entire system and make sure all the fittings are snug. Not too tight, because they are o-ring seals. My truck had the MAK (Marine Armor Kit) removed from it before I purchased, so many of the fittings were loose from where it went through the armor.

While you are at it, since the system isn't charged, it might not be a bad idea to go through and replace all of the o-rings in the system.

Red dot bagged O-Ring assortment 70R5020 , cost $6 on ebay.

The receiver/dryer isn't a bad idea either if you don't know if it was open to atmosphere at all. Mine was still mounted properly, but had been installed backwards, so double check it is facing the correct direction for system flow.
NOS Parker Filter Drier Dryer Receiver R-134a PH-08853500 Red-Dot RD-5-11435-0 (cost $18 on ebay)

Double check your compressor, it should be a Sanden, and you'll want to use SP-15 compressor oil to lubricate the o-rings and fittings, supposedly not compatible with standard PAG-15 oil.


The high side port is the same as a standard GM thread in port, can be bought for pretty cheap anywhere (mine leaked a little)
The low side port is a hose fitting, not as common but still pretty easy to acquire on ebay. (I paid like $6 for a replacement)

#10/12 ac hose fitting straight male with suction port
#10 for #12 hose straight male o-ring
low side charging port
aeroquip e-z clip
be aware this fitting needs # 12 hose

The hoses and fittings are relatively cheap for these systems, so replacing any of them that show issues like cracking or corrosion is much easier/better to do before you charge up the system (I replaced every hose and all but one fitting, and ended up having that one fitting be the one with issues and so needing replaced later, and it was the high side charging port, under $10)

All the hoses were replaced they didn’t leave me with the standard charging port they left that one do you know what the adapter is called to use a regular gauge manifold on it?


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[Coug]

All the hoses were replaced they didn’t leave me with the standard charging port they left that one do you know what the adapter is called to use a regular gauge manifold on it?


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Usually they are referred to as "R134a adapter" or "R134a quick coupler"

and the "standard charging port" you are referring to is for R12, pretty much everything newer uses this type of fitting, so this would be a current standard charging port.

Sometimes when technology changes was is "standard" becomes old tech, and the terminology gets confusing.

 

[Dpas1973]

Usually they are referred to as "R134a adapter" or "R134a quick coupler"

and the "standard charging port" you are referring to is for R12, pretty much everything newer uses this type of fitting.

Just ordered the adapter and dryer thank you for the help. The guy I got it from said it sat uninstalled for a few years and he had a shop that makes hydraulic lines make him a few lines to hook it back up when I brought it. He said he knows nothing about it and a shop couldn’t charge it and said the dryer must be bad. When I turn it on the compressor just clicks I’m assuming because it’s empty low pressure switch?


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[Coug]

Just ordered the adapter and dryer thank you for the help. The guy I got it from said it sat uninstalled for a few years and he had a shop that makes hydraulic lines make him a few lines to hook it back up when I brought it. He said he knows nothing about it and a shop couldn’t charge it and said the dryer must be bad. When I turn it on the compressor just clicks I’m assuming because it’s empty low pressure switch?


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Yeah, without anything in the system it won't do anything, but as soon as you start charging it it should show the green light on the diagnostic module and start working.
I don't have a scale so I just kept filling mine until it stopped cycling very quickly, and the sight glass on the receiver/dryer wasn't showing any bubbles going through the system. Works almost too well.


With it sitting for a few years, mine had some corrosion in the fittings, and wouldn't seal once the vacuum pump was removed (I pumped it down overnight, disconnected, and let everything sit until the end of the day) so if you have access to it, it's not a bad idea to vacuum it down, let it sit and see, then after that use nitrogen to charge it to 200 psi and let it sit for a day or so, just to see if anything is going to leak. R134a isn't that expensive, but having to do it repeatedly adds up.

 

[Dpas1973]

Yeah, without anything in the system it won't do anything, but as soon as you start charging it it should show the green light on the diagnostic module and start working.
I don't have a scale so I just kept filling mine until it stopped cycling very quickly, and the sight glass on the receiver/dryer wasn't showing any bubbles going through the system. Works almost too well.


With it sitting for a few years, mine had some corrosion in the fittings, and wouldn't seal once the vacuum pump was removed (I pumped it down overnight, disconnected, and let everything sit until the end of the day) so if you have access to it, it's not a bad idea to vacuum it down, let it sit and see, then after that use nitrogen to charge it to 200 psi and let it sit for a day or so, just to see if anything is going to leak. R134a isn't that expensive, but having to do it repeatedly adds up.

Yes I will do that thank you for the help. I’m new at this first humvee and am learning as I go. I have another question the rear wheels are turned in should I do something to straighten them out? Someone mentioned taking shims out but I have no clue how to do that lol.


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[Coug]

Yes I will do that thank you for the help. I’m new at this first humvee and am learning as I go. I have another question the rear wheels are turned in should I do something to straighten them out? Someone mentioned taking shims out but I have no clue how to do that lol.


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By turning in you mean the front are closer together than the rear, or that the bottom of the tire is closer together than the top?
If front closer than rear that's an alignment adjustment (toe in), relatively simple to adjust, it should have very slight toe out.

If it's the camber adjustment (top of the tire out, bottom of tire leaning in) then yes, you need to remove the shims, which is a somewhat involved process involving loosening suspension bolts at the frame. I have no experience with it, but there are some threads on ehre that talk about it.

Either way, wait until you have the truck set up how you want it and expect it to stay, because weight has a lot more effect on an independent suspension than on a straight axled truck like most of us are used to.
My M1123 is a little over 9k lbs right now, and the camber only shows up on the alignment machine because it's so close to vertical with that weight. But that is just mine

 

[Dpas1973]

By turning in you mean the front are closer together than the rear, or that the bottom of the tire is closer together than the top?
If front closer than rear that's an alignment adjustment (toe in), relatively simple to adjust, it should have very slight toe out.

If it's the camber adjustment (top of the tire out, bottom of tire leaning in) then yes, you need to remove the shims, which is a somewhat involved process involving loosening suspension bolts at the frame. I have no experience with it, but there are some threads on ehre that talk about it.

Either way, wait until you have the truck set up how you want it and expect it to stay, because weight has a lot more effect on an independent suspension than on a straight axled truck like most of us are used to.
My M1123 is a little over 9k lbs right now, and the camber only shows up on the alignment machine because it's so close to vertical with that weight. But that is just mine

Yes the bottom of the rear tires turn in. I will not be towing or really doing anything but driving around town. I called an alignment place today and the guy was like idk they are hard to align etc. maybe I should just pull the shims out and bolt it back with no shims? Don’t look bad just breaking the bolts I guess is the hard part.


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[Coug]

Yes the bottom of the rear tires turn in. I will not be towing or really doing anything but driving around town. I called an alignment place today and the guy was like idk they are hard to align etc. maybe I should just pull the shims out and bolt it back with no shims? Don’t look bad just breaking the bolts I guess is the hard part.


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That portion of the alignment is the hard part. I took my truck to Les Schwab and they did all the toe adjustments in about 1 hour on their rack. After the shims are removed you'll want the alignment, just have them use the same specs as an H1 from the late 90's.

 

[Dpas1973]

That portion of the alignment is the hard part. I took my truck to Les Schwab and they did all the toe adjustments in about 1 hour on their rack. After the shims are removed you'll want the alignment, just have them use the same specs as an H1 from the late 90's.

What did that run you?


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[Milcommoguy]

What did that run you?


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How about sticking to air con stuff. I am NOT the post police and your question is valuable to us.

A quick SS search with the "Search Fourm" will point one to many of those burning questions or start a new one.

Just a bystander trying to help, HE went dat way, CAMO