MTVR key-locking outside door handles installation:

[MTVR]

I may cross-post this to other applicable thread(s), but I thought it was worthy of it's own thread in and of itself.

Some time back, I contacted Oshkosh Defense, and was eventually able to obtain the correct part numbers for key-locking outside door handles for the MTVR, #3506900 for the left, and #3506901 for the right.

Oshkosh Defense also referred me to a vendor that they believed would sell to a private individual. That vendor is ATAP in Alabama.

I contacted ATAP, and they agreed to sell to me. They quoted me $355 plus $20 shipping, but were not able to give me a timeline, as Oshkosh Defense has a military-grade QC program that all parts must pass through, and it typically takes quite a while.

Fast-forward to today, and a box from ATAP arrived. Upon unwrapping them, it appears that one of them has been partially disassembled and then reassembled- as both door handles are keyed alike, I'm guessing that somebody took one of them apart to rekey it to match the other one. That would also explain why one door handle was more expensive than the other.

Weather depending, I'll try to get them installed as soon as possible, and report back...

 

[MTVR]

...aaaand we have thunder and lightning this morning, with big fat rain drops...

 

[MTVR]

Had a break in the weather, and got them installed today. No more chaining up the doors!

 

[MTVR]

The driver's side was pretty easy to remove- there are two linkage cover pieces, each retained with two small bolts. The inside door handle then comes out, after popping off the latch rod at the top and removing the four mounting bolts (two small ones in the door jamb, and two larger ones in back). Then you can disconnect the outside door handle latch rod at the bottom, remove the three small nylock nuts and washers that hold the retainer to the outside door handle, and pull it out.

 

[MTVR]

The passenger side was harder, because both of the larger bolts behind the inside door handle were mis-threaded. To get better access, especially to the bottom one, I had to remove the passenger seat box again...and I hate each and every one of those 19 bolts. If you had a long transmission extension or a powerful air ratchet, you may be able to remove the right one without pulling the seat. I look forward to hearing from the next person who does outside door handles, to see if they were able to do it with the passenger seat box in place.

 

[MTVR]

If you purchased a truck that was build with armor like mine was, or even if you have a truck that armor was added to after, keep in mind that they don't always remove all the armor- my truck still had several armor plates left in it, to include the armor plates that almost entirely block access to the outside door handles.

After removing the inside door handles, the armor plates each still had one bolt retaining them by a tab at the bottom in the back. And they were also attached with some kind of clear sticky double-sided tape that did not give up easily in cold weather.

I also found one more armor plate that runs the full width of the cab behind the seats, but it's not in the way of anything right now, so I'm not going to bother removing it at this time.

 

[MTVR]

Once the old outside door handles were out, it was easy enough to clean off the old gasket material and install the new ones into their respective holes with the new retainers, washers, and nylock nuts supplied.

The inside lock rods appeared to be inverted for shipment, so I flipped them around so that they came out the top. There's nothing for them to attach to, so for the time being, I just zip-wrapped them to the thick black foam inside the cavity. Whatever you do with them, they need to have some resistance to them, to hold them in whatever position the lock cylinder and bell crank put them in, or they will just fall into the unlocked position again, even after locking with the key.

The outside door handle latch rods were the only part that required any work- their length was too short to work with the new door handles, and there was not enough adjustment available to make them work. Fortunately, they have kind of a "Z" to them, and after straightening the "Z" out, they were well within the adjustment range.

 

[MTVR]

It's nice to be able to ditch the two chains, two locks, and two keys, in exchange for just one key that secures both doors better than all that other stuff ever did anyway...

 

[Elijah95]

Good stuff!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MTVR]

Good stuff!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was beginning to wonder if I was just wasting my time posting this thread. I have not seen anyone else on Steel Soldiers source and install key-locking door handles on their MTVR, so I thought it would be helpful. GovPlanet has sold over 300 MTVRs, so I thought it would be a popular thing. But so far, you're the only one to give me any feedback on this...

 

[10isBestmm]

Im definitely going to order the same.
And pay a locksmith to get the keyed ignition also keyed alike.

 

[MTVR]

They are completely different keys- there is no way for a locksmith to rekey Oshkosh keyed door handles to match a Cole-Hersee keyed starter switch.

 

[10isBestmm]

Well shot, thank you for telling me. I would not have found out till i had gotten all the pieces together.

 

[MTVR]

My wife and I each have three keys for the MTVR- the door key, which works both doors, the starter key, and the fuel cap key. The battery switch padlock and the steering lock padlock are combo padlocks, so no keys there...

I guess we will each have four keys, when we build our home on the back....

 

[Fallujah_Vet_USMC]

What kind of keyed ignition switch and keyed fuel cap did you get? I’m looking to do the exact same thing you did.

 

[MTVR]

What kind of keyed ignition switch and keyed fuel cap did you get? I’m looking to do the exact same thing you did.

The key-locking starter switch is a Cole-Hersee# 956-3125BX. We paid $24 with free shipping.

And the fuel cap can be any 4" threaded (8 threads per inch) aluminum NON-vented key-locking fuel cap.

 

[10isBestmm]

I just started the install on my door handles. Just wanted to add. The nut and bolt for the inner door latch uses a 3/8" and a 5/16" for the nut. Took me a bit to figure it out. The length for the long z that connects the latches has a f-f spacer in the middle that you just loosen the two nuts on it and you can pull out almost 2 inches from the threads to adjust your height. And you have to place with the different holes to get the lock to do different things if you follow the same bolt pattern from the previous latch. I had to redo the positionings on the rods and found asetup to only unlock and open when the key is turned and another setup with that would act like a typical car. Rotate left to keep unlock and rotate right to lock.

The passenger door latch is giving me problems right now though. It gets stuck every other attempt to open it. The part with the 4 allen screws.

Sorry about the wall. Ill get some pictures next time I work on it.

 

[Fallujah_Vet_USMC]

The key-locking starter switch is a Cole-Hersee# 956-3125BX. We paid $24 with free shipping.

And the fuel cap can be any 4" threaded (8 threads per inch) aluminum NON-vented key-locking fuel cap.

Much appreciated, thank you!

 

[MTVR]

Happy to help...

 

[10isBestmm]

Once the old outside door handles were out, it was easy enough to clean off the old gasket material and install the new ones into their respective holes with the new retainers, washers, and nylock nuts supplied.

The inside lock rods appeared to be inverted for shipment, so I flipped them around so that they came out the top. There's nothing for them to attach to, so for the time being, I just zip-wrapped them to the thick black foam inside the cavity. Whatever you do with them, they need to have some resistance to them, to hold them in whatever position the lock cylinder and bell crank put them in, or they will just fall into the unlocked position again, even after locking with the key.

The outside door handle latch rods were the only part that required any work- their length was too short to work with the new door handles, and there was not enough adjustment available to make them work. Fortunately, they have kind of a "Z" to them, and after straightening the "Z" out, they were well within the adjustment range.

I finished up the passenger door lock today. I found that I tightened the 4 allen bolts too tightly to let the door mechanism unlock.

Spent 2 hours trying to line up the bottom bolt on the inner door latch assembly and couldnt align it. Might revisit it another day if I ever have to pull the bench seat.

I just about had to pull all the length out of the rods to put this one in.