Part Source for newly adopted 803A?

[Mk23]

I picked up my second MEP803A this weekend. Unlike my first one, which was a Mint reset, this one is missing some bits, like a Fuel cut off solenoid and a Starter relay (the 1st one/spendy one). Does anyone have a cheaper source for parts on these, besides Greenmountain?

Fuel return lines were rotten, would not run after Dead Started. Replaced them with some diesel 3.5 Conti lines, and now she purrs like a diesel kitten. I have power to the outlets, and power to the gauges, shows appropriate ranges when switched back and forward (110/240 etc) , but no power to the cable lugs. I need to dig into the TMs and figure out what is going on...Any suggestions where to start?

 

[Light in the Dark]

Ebay is a good source of parts. Even better is knowing how to use the -24P manual to ascertain item numbers which you can then cross reference on various sites, to find manufacturer numbers on what you want. Its an invaluable source of info for us.

Does the light on the AC connect switch light up when you flip it?

 

[Mk23]

That's an excellent idea, I will go look those up in the 24P!

No, the AC light stays off...

 

[Light in the Dark]

I think you need to plan on taking the roof off and looking at the load contactor. I would suggest pulling down the -24 manual as well, see if they have any instructions as to power at outlet but not the lugs.

 

[Mk23]

Ok, I'll start looking. Pulling off the roof is not a problem. I already have it off the engine area to change the fuel return lines....

I think you need to plan on taking the roof off and looking at the load contactor. I would suggest pulling down the -24 manual as well, see if they have any instructions as to power at outlet but not the lugs.

 

[Guyfang]

I think you need to plan on taking the roof off and looking at the load contactor. I would suggest pulling down the -24 manual as well, see if they have any instructions as to power at outlet but not the lugs.

The 120 volt outlet is always powered up, as long as the GFI is working and turned on. Is that where you got your 120/240 volt reading? Or just looked at the meter?

So, GENERATOR SET FAILS TO GENERATE POWER, would be your first troubleshooting step. And you do know to not turn the volt re-connection switch while its running? Do you get any idiot lights?

 

[Light in the Dark]

Ok, I'll start looking. Pulling off the roof is not a problem. I already have it off the engine area to change the fuel return lines....

I am referencing the roof portion over the electronic controls, not the engine bay... but yes, you are already halfway there.

 

[Mk23]

I am referencing the roof portion over the electronic controls, not the engine bay... but yes, you are already halfway there.

Yeah, I have been reading the TM last night. It says that portion of the roof is sealed with Silicone in addition to screws. Any tips there? Just regular silicone to re-seal?

 

[Light in the Dark]

Ive only had a couple come in that were actually sealed... most have nothing. Your choice to reseal or not. On the couple I had in with it, I just used adhesive backed foam to do the same thing.

 

[Mk23]

No, I was referring to the gauges reading output voltage. And no, I was not aware that you are not supposed to turn the AC Voltage Reconnection Switch while running. Both the -10 and the labels say make sure you disconnect load before switching, I did not see it say not to switch it while running (gen is not connected to a load). You're saying it will damage the generator?

So, i am going to Test K1 and K15

"22. GENERATOR SET FAILS TO GENERATE POWER.Step 1. Test AC Circuit interrupter relay, K1, refer to paragraph 2-61-3.a. If the AC Circuit interrupter relay, K1 is not defective, do Step 2.b. If defective, replace the AC circuit interrupter relay K1, refer to paragraph 2-61.Step 2. Test Field Flash Relay. K15, paragraph 2-33-2.a. If the field flash relay is defective replace per paragraph 2-33.b. If relay is not defective refer to next higher level of maintenance. "

Nope, no Idiot lights. The light for closing the AC circuit does not light when toggled. Battle short does toggle and light comes on.

The 120 volt outlet is always powered up, as long as the GFI is working and turned on. Is that where you got your 120/240 volt reading? Or just looked at the meter?

So, GENERATOR SET FAILS TO GENERATE POWER, would be your first troubleshooting step. And you do know to not turn the volt re-connection switch while its running? Do you get any idiot lights?

 

[Mk23]

Ive only had a couple come in that were actually sealed... most have nothing. Your choice to reseal or not. On the couple I had in with it, I just used adhesive backed foam to do the same thing.

Thanks, can do. I have several varieties of the adhesive backed foam on hand.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I think its black RTV from the factory, but I didnt have any handy.

 

[Guyfang]

No, I was referring to the gauges reading output voltage. And no, I was not aware that you are not supposed to turn the AC Voltage Reconnection Switch while running. Both the -10 and the labels say make sure you disconnect load before switching, I did not see it say not to switch it while running (gen is not connected to a load). You're saying it will damage the generator?
It will damage the S8 AC Voltage Reconnection Switch. Any time you have contacts opening or closing under load or voltage, you get a spark. That spark transfers a tiny bit of contact material, from one side to the other on the contacts. At some point in time the contacts stop working, or worst case, can weld themselves together.

Ive only had a couple come in that were actually sealed... most have nothing. Your choice to reseal or not. On the couple I had in with it, I just used adhesive backed foam to do the same thing. In the old days, there was an adhesive tape used. Wasn't in the TM's. Then everyone used RTV. If you put too much RTV on, you need to eat your Wheaties to get the cover off again. So use enough to seal, but not enough to secure a Tiger Tank. Or the tape. Its better in my mind, but we did not have any.

Attached is the K-15 test procedure. If you havent removed anything yet, try this. Start the set. When its running and producing power, flip up the S7 Battle Short. Then Flip up S5, AC Circuit Interrupter switch, and see if the light comes on.

 

[Mk23]

No, I was referring to the gauges reading output voltage. And no, I was not aware that you are not supposed to turn the AC Voltage Reconnection Switch while running. Both the -10 and the labels say make sure you disconnect load before switching, I did not see it say not to switch it while running (gen is not connected to a load). You're saying it will damage the generator?
It will damage the S8 AC Voltage Reconnection Switch. Any time you have contacts opening or closing under load or voltage, you get a spark. That spark transfers a tiny bit of contact material, from one side to the other on the contacts. At some point in time the contacts stop working, or worst case, can weld themselves together. Thank you for explaining that, it makes a lot of sense when put like that. I will definitely avoid doing it.

Ive only had a couple come in that were actually sealed... most have nothing. Your choice to reseal or not. On the couple I had in with it, I just used adhesive backed foam to do the same thing. In the old days, there was an adhesive tape used. Wasn't in the TM's. Then everyone used RTV. If you put too much RTV on, you need to eat your Wheaties to get the cover off again. So use enough to seal, but not enough to secure a Tiger Tank. Or the tape. Its better in my mind, but we did not have any. Excellent, I'll stick to foam tape right now.

Attached is the K-15 test procedure. If you havent removed anything yet, try this. Start the set. When its running and producing power, flip up the S7 Battle Short. Then Flip up S5, AC Circuit Interrupter switch, and see if the light comes on. I will try that, it's cold, dark and when by the time I get home, so I am probably gonna wait until this weekend to do anymore testing. On the attached testing procedure, which are N, NC and NO? Which relay should I test? Thank you again for the help!

 

[Guyfang]

Testing the relay.
When not energized:
Pins 7 & 4, 8 & 5 and 9 & 6 should be open.
Pins 7 & 1, 8 & 2 and 9 & 3 should be closed.
When the relay is energized:
Pins 7 & 4, 8 & 5 and 9 & 6 should be closed.
Pins 7 & 1, 8 & 2 and 9 & 3 should be open

The relays are marked next to the socket.

Time to hit the hay!

 

[Mk23]

Ok, had time to update tests. Just to summarize, new to me 803A, Produces 120V at courtesy outlets, panel gauges show appropriately selected voltages, (240 or 120), but no power at the lugs.

AC interrupter switch does not light up. Battleshort lights up, but no change to interrupter switch light.

Tested AC interrupter relay today. Battery - off, no continuity for A1- A2, B1-B2 and C1-C3, 11-12.

Jump wire from From A1 (that is the nearest pole for cranking relay, correct? shows 24V to -) to terminal X. No change in A, B and C continuity. But there is continuity 11-12. Cycled switch, could hear audible click, but no change A, B or C continuity.

K15 is good. Also swapped it out with a good know working relay from other 803.

Testing the relay.
When not energized:
Pins 7 & 4, 8 & 5 and 9 & 6 should be open.
Pins 7 & 1, 8 & 2 and 9 & 3 should be closed.
When the relay is energized:
Pins 7 & 4, 8 & 5 and 9 & 6 should be closed.
Pins 7 & 1, 8 & 2 and 9 & 3 should be open

The relays are marked next to the socket.

Time to hit the hay!

 

[Guyfang]

Ok, had time to update tests. Just to summarize, new to me 803A, Produces 120V at courtesy outlets, panel gauges show appropriately selected voltages, (240 or 120), but no power at the lugs.

AC interrupter switch does not light up. Battleshort lights up, but no change to interrupter switch light. (what you are telling here is, that when the set is running, and you flip up the S7, then try the S5, the DS7 will not light up?)

Tested AC interrupter relay today. Battery - off, no continuity for A1- A2, B1-B2 and C1-C3, 11-12. (Did you unhook the wires?)

Jump wire from From A1 (that is the nearest pole for cranking relay, correct? shows 24V to -) to terminal X. No change in A, B and C continuity. But there is continuity 11-12. Cycled switch, could hear audible click, but no change A, B or C continuity.

(This is K1. To test it, with power off, nothing turned on, do the following steps.
1. Take a wire and run from a 24 VDC source, and go to terminal X.
2. If K1 works, there will be a clunk.
3. Measure between the A1-A2, B1-B2 and C1-C2, for ohms. There should be continuity.
4. You can also measure on terminals 11 & 12 for ohms. Should be continuity.
5. Remove the jumper wire from Terminal X.
6. All of your measurements that you made before hand should all be open.
Try that.)


K15 is good. Also swapped it out with a good know working relay from other 803.

Open to see answers/Questions.

 

[Mk23]

Open to see answers/Questions.

Excellent, I got it producing at the lugs! It was a sticky, corroded X/Y circuit contact. I took it out, cleaned it up and made sure it snapped shut with 24V. Re installed and it seems to be working great so far. I will do further testing. Thank you again to everyone for the Help!!