Generator theory question!

[ROTZINGER]

Hey guys!
I have a question for you:
I have a business that can't be without power, I have a mep805a and love it but it's not enough to feed full production so it's a problem. I've been thinking in getting a bigger mep, 60kw for instance that should be enough but I could also get another 805 and use them in parallel. What do you guys think is better?
Also while pondering about this I started to think, if I have a 30kw mep running at 80% load or a 60kw mep running at 30% will they use the same amount of fuel?
So in summary: capacity vs investment/operation what is better a) 60kw single genset for every situation or B) 15kw for when only office is working, 30kw for when production is low and 60kw for when you need full power (scenario B I'm shutting one off and switching for the next bigger one as demand goes up)
Also keep in mind this is still an emergency genset application and not the primary electricity source!
I'm looking forward to hearing your opinions guys!
BR

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[NDT]

Paralleled 30's. They will act as redundant power supplies and if one fails during high production, you can send those people home.

 

[MrShawn305]

I agree with NDT as far as reliability goes. "Two is one, one is none". For simplicity and fuel conservation I would say an 806 if you need the power. If not, then two 805's would work well for you. I understand there are some quirks to the parallel system so you have to be careful when synching. If it were me, I would just get an 806 and be done with it, just to keep it simple.

 

[Light in the Dark]

You will NOT want to run a liquid cooled MEP at 30% load, for any length of time. It will wet stack like crazy. I think the parallel idea is more beneficial to your real world use, those it will probably consume more fuel versus the stand alone bigger unit.

 

[ROTZINGER]

You will NOT want to run a liquid cooled MEP at 30% load, for any length of time. It will wet stack like crazy. I think the parallel idea is more beneficial to your real world use, those it will probably consume more fuel versus the stand alone bigger unit.

Hey guys! Thanks for your input!
Light in the dark, What's wet stacking?
Thanks!

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[Light in the Dark]

Its unburned fuel, that collects as a sticky tar like substance in your top end and muffler. If your exhaust gas temperatures are not sufficiently high enough, unburned fuel is going to collect where I said, as it cools. Recipe for problems.

Edit: It normally shows itself as black goo oozing out of the muffler flange.

 

[ROTZINGER]

Its unburned fuel, that collects as a sticky tar like substance in your top end and muffler. If your exhaust gas temperatures are not sufficiently high enough, unburned fuel is going to collect where I said, as it cools. Recipe for problems.

Oh boy.... Should I take the moffler off and valve cover to clean everything? That's the solution?

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[Light in the Dark]

No the solution is to make sure you are running it sufficiently loaded. 30% of rated load won't cut it. Get the machine loaded down and burning hot... it will clear itself up.

 

[nextalcupfan]

Generally speaking loading the set to 100% for anywhere between 45min and 2 hrs is considered the best way to remove wet stacking.
I've also read people who pour a can of seafoam in the tank at a high concentration have good results, but I've never done this myself.

 

[nextalcupfan]

You can see some wetstacking in my 803a at the beginning of the video.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Oh boy.... Should I take the moffler off and valve cover to clean everything? That's the solution?

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Just to clarify, when LITD said "top end and muffler" your question about taking off the "valve cover" & cleaning would not be of much benefit. The wet stacking occurs where the fuel's incomplete combustion exhaust gasses travel... as in the cylinder walls, around piston rings, through the head around exhaust valves and on out through the exhaust manifold and into & out the muffler.

If not frequently exercised around and above ~75% loads you could start seeing symptoms of a black gooey slobber showing up in your muffler's exhaust pipe and potentially around exhaust manifold connections. Of course those are only the symptoms and if one continues to run their genset lightly loaded, more so in water-cooled engines than air-cooled engines, over time it will only get worse to the point of reduced power output and could potentially lead to an engine failure over time.

Many members with various genset models with wet stacked engines have had good success running long & hot (fully loaded) to the point of seeing glowing chunks of carbon spitting out the exhaust if dark outside. When that happens you know you are making progress in getting it cleared out!

 

[155mm]

This is an 004 that was locked up tight from wet stacking, this is what it looked like at first startup after freeing motor

 

[155mm]

More stuff coming out on full load testing

 

[Light in the Dark]

Air cooled sets are less prone to this occurrence, but it does still happen.

 

[Guyfang]

In the summer, we had to station someone with a fire extinguser outside the shop. We set the place on fire once or twice. Pine needles burn fine when dry.

 

[ROTZINGER]

Hey guys!
And how much would you guys say climate has to do with this issue? I live down in Cancún, mexico so ambient temperature is always quite high... What do you guys think the temperature of the exhaust manifold should be to say "it's hot enough" to burn all that shit?


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[Guyfang]

The gen set is supposed to run at about 180 degrees. Outside air temp will have very little to do with the engine temp, as long as your set is in good repair.

 

[ROTZINGER]

The gen set is supposed to run at about 180 degrees. Outside air temp will have very little to do with the engine temp, as long as your set is in good repair.

Hey guyfang!
180C right? Is this temperature on the exhaust manifold?

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[Guyfang]

No.

180 F. should be on your Coolant temp Gauge. You can take a reading at the thermostat housing also.

 

[nf6x]

I had previously built a really cheesy generator testing load bank with switchable electric water heater elements mounted through the bottom of a metal trash can, which I filled with water. It's barely up to Red Green Show quality standards, and I'd like to have something safer and more practical for testing and exercising my MEP-003A 10kW set. Do y'all have any better suggestions for something I might buy or build which won't break the bank?