linemech31
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Finished the lift today. I measured it at 6'11" to the top of the cab. Took about 6 hours start to finish.
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84 1008 build.
- Thread starter linemech31
- Start date
linemech31
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I used up an entire tube of grease on top of the frame before putting the bed back on.
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- Los Angeles, CA
Why the grease?
linemech31
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Its for corrosion protection. Salt gets between the frame and bed support. It eats everything up here in N.H
I have had good results with oil spraying my vehicles to avoid the rust. The trade off is the mess you have to deal with anytime you work on the underside of the vehicle.
- 142
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- Location
- Los Angeles, CA
Got it. I was thinking you used a grease gun and couldn't figureout why.
- 867
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- 93
- Location
- Cooperstown NY
I think the best thing would be to "NOT" run it in the winter salt. But if you need to you should get it oiled by a Krown dealer. I did both my CUCVs and I am very happy. The oil spray will migrate into areas as time goes on and is actually great for all your electrical connections. About $150-175.00 for a full spray including inside tailgates, doors, pillars, fenders, and under the hood.
Krown Rust Control
linemech31
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Its about 160$ at heaths auto body in loudon nh. I have done oil spraying to all my junk since my grandfather advised me to do so. Ill avoid driving in the salt when possible but it is inevitable here. I dont want to spray the new to me 1008 until i have time to paint the body for obvious reasons.
linemech31
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After a couple weeks of wrenching i finally drove it home tonight. I had a no shift issue which turned out to be bad vacuum lines. Literally cost me 2$ to fix
linemech31
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These things are incredibly simple. The distributor driven vacuum pump is way overkill but i guess it filled a hole in the casting. Lol
linemech31
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I think its time for a dash
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linemech31
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Took 4 test rides to get that transmission modulator tuned for a shift i liked, tuning to the vacuum gauge is a ballpark imo... Wouldn't mind a different governor spring for the 2-3 shift but overall its good. Ill tune it further when i upgrade the powerplant. This thing tracks the road better than my newish ram 2500.
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linemech31
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Where does the volt meter pick it ground up from?
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If your talking about the dash mounted voltmeter I believe it's grounded through the mounting clamp.
linemech31
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I dont have a ground on the connector wire that plugs into the indicator which i believe should be on the black/white wire. The orange shows 28vdc when i use a chassis ground to test. I was wondering where the black/white wire heads off to?
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- Location
- Okinawa, Japan
It heads off to a buss bar ground somewhere under the dash just after it is spliced in with 5 other ground wires. I think there is a grounding point near the fuseblock but I don't know if that is where it connects.
TM9-2330-289-34 page E6, figure E4 (pdf page 949/1024)
cucvrus
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Since the voltmeter only works when the key is on. Could it be grounded thru a relay that provides ground only when the switch is on. I am poor at electrical but I eventually figure it out. But if I recall that hot wire to the voltmeter is always hot. That's why it sparks when you have the cluster out and the stud touches ground. be careful. Good Luck.
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- Okinawa, Japan
linemech31
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I haven't had time to chase it down. Ill get on it this weekend when i install a couple auto meter gauges.
linemech31
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Got the interior apart for paint,gauge and stereo installation.
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linemech31
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Shot the satin black today. Doing bedliner on the lower half. It only looks glossy because its still wet.
