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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Mad Texan

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Chester County, PA
Care to share the part number from LMC?
Looks like it was 30-2402 and 30-2403. $16.95 ea. with the clips. Not a heavy as the originals but seem ok. I waited a month for them from USA1 to finally call and have them tell me they 'might' be another month. LMC got them out pretty quick.
 

Rutjes

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Amersfoort, The Netherlands
Drove my M1028 chassis to a different coater to inform what they could do for me. The last one screwed up, bad. I have more trust in this one. I left the chassis there and will be bringing them the rest of the stuff I removed like brackets, mounts, crossmembers, etc. The parts will of course be media blasted again then metal sprayed before applying epoxy primer and this time have it painted too. I'll just have to touch up areas I might have to drill or weld later on. The obvious choise for color is black, but... what do you guys think about doing something different, like desert tan (RAL1019) same as the body?

Rock Auto and FedEx surprised me again, 4 days from the USA to the Netherlands. I received the parts required to continue experimenting with my dual alternator serpentine setup; an idler pulley, AC bypass bracket/pulley and steel pulley to replace the plastic one that came with the AC bypass. Test fitted the parts and put an old belt on to check alignment. Very happy with the result.

IMG_20201116_142615(1).jpg IMG_20201116_142549.jpg IMG_20201116_142554.jpg IMG_20201116_142600.jpg IMG_20201116_142607.jpg

My mate bought a M1008 about a month ago (I might have influenced him into doing so...) Installed flashers on his truck and my K1500. On the M1008 we used the blackout light holes in the bumpers (front and back) and cut holes in the grille. Just as I planned for mine. I can use his for a lot of testing before applying it to my mine. :LOL: For the K1500 I had to cut holes in the bumpers and grille.


We also found a lot of rust on his cab so I had USA2YOU order a bunch of repair panels from LMC to go with some other goodies I had already ordered through them, including a HMMWV fan blade, Leroy's turbo spool stick, engine and trans mounts and a civvy fuel filler neck with locking cap. I help him with his truck, he helps me with mine. I will try and get him to post on this forum himself. :D
 
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Cory1337

Member
29
28
18
Location
Terre Haute, IN
My truck has had what souded like an exhaust leak since I had it. Found out tonight the large line on the vacuum pump was leaking. Double clamped it while I was replacing vacuum lines and it shifts like a dream and quiet to boot. 2 birds one additional hose clamp. The hose from the auto parts store is a little proud, need to find some slightly smaller and I think it'd not need the double clamp. Happy Thanksgiving!!!
 

Tinstar

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Edmond, Oklahoma
Finally installed the two missing battery hold down studs.
Only took 5 years.........

Bought 1/4” stainless steel threaded rod and cut to length.
Next time I have the top trays off, I’ll cover the middle with shrink sleeve to prevent any chafing.

It was one of those items that I knew about, but didn’t do, until I was reminded by another member.

All is good now.
 

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Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
What a day....

Wife and I drove to the mountains on Saturday to shoot a pistol I picked up on a police auction. We drove the Grand Cherokee but as soon as we hit the National Forest I heard a chime and the oil can light on the dash flashed on, then went out. The oil checked good and then the check engine light came on, so I was confident it was a sender, but we drove home anyway. Took the reliable M1009 to the jeep dealer to buy a new sender after I read the code.

Today was either fix the jeep or drive the M1009 to the mountains to shoot the gun. Decided to drive to the mountains. On my way home, about half way home, the truck bucked once... About ten miles later it bucked a couple more times and died. I pulled off, popped the hood, and seeing nothing amiss I tried to start. Fired right up, so I set off towards home again. I got about five more miles and it died.

I managed to coast down the big hill to the Hood Canal Bridge at idle and it died on the bridge a few hundred yards across. Repeat that six or seven more times and I was on my side of the bridge and it died. I was able to restart but the road ahead had no shoulder and it wasn't running for more than a minute or so before quitting, so I called it.

First time in my life I've ever had to call a tow truck. I was still $200 away from the driveway so that hurt, but there's nobody close that can come tow-strap me home- and braking with the motor off is scary anyway.

My gut says fuel pump. The gauge shows a half tank and I'm 95% it's got at least that much, but that'll be my first check.

Due to the china-virus the tow company won't let you ride in the truck with them, so my wife drove out to collect me.

Tow.jpg
 

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
Got the jeep back on the road- just a new oil pressure sender.

The CUCV still not running right. It will start normally, run a few minutes, then shut down.
I changed the filter and it ran for 10 - 12 minutes, then shut down.
Wait about ten minutes, and it starts, runs a few minutes, then shuts down.
Plenty of diesel in the tank too.
I'm watching the fuel pressure gauge on the filter in line, and it's showing 7 - 8 psi when it's running and when it shuts down.

Thoughts?
 

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
Entertain this thought. CUCVRUS Repair Projects | Page 6 | SteelSoldiers Have you ever changed the lift pump and injection pump?
No, as far as I know the engine has about 30K miles on it. Cool barn! I work in the rain...

Do the symptoms I describe sound like an injection pump issue? It was running strong the whole day, still running strong during the brief periods it was running.
 

LT67

Well-known member
655
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93
Location
Bowdon, GA
Not sure where to start with the 86 M1008... lol. Had to replace the radiator, rebuild inj pump and fix the glow plug system. Along the way several electrical gremlins were fixed and swapped in a new harmonic balancer, water pump and power steering pump as well. We also figured out the engine is losing compression. Warm restarts were a pain, so an auxiliary manual glow plug switch cured it. Gonna have to either rebuild the engine or find another 6.2 to throw in there. In the meanwhile it's up and running again..
 

cucvrus

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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
No, as far as I know the engine has about 30K miles on it. Cool barn! I work in the rain...

Do the symptoms I describe sound like an injection pump issue? It was running strong the whole day, still running strong during the brief periods it was running.
Mileage has no value at this point. things just wear out and go bad setting and doing nothing. I would replace the lift pump first and double check the hoses and clamps front to back. If that don't solve it time to drop the fuel tank and replace the sock filter in the tank. I had people tell me to remove it but I never did. New Gasoline trucks don't even have fuel filters. But try all that then go to the one dreaded always avoided money item the injection pump. I always like the huge performance improvement f a fresh rebuilt injection pump from a reputable rebuilder. Fixes a lot of ills at one time. Good Luck and Happy Thanksgiving.
 

chevymike

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Location
San Diego, CA
Where did you buy the parts?

This is a German made one, actually sold by Badger Diesel via Amazon
 

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
Mileage has no value at this point. things just wear out and go bad setting and doing nothing.
Working in the rain means I really don't want to throw parts at it if they aren't needed, so please bear with me.
I agree about the mileage. This is a daily driver though, it never sits more than a day or two.

I would replace the lift pump first and double check the hoses and clamps front to back. If that don't solve it time to drop the fuel tank and replace the sock filter in the tank.
My filter base has a pressure gauge. It's steady at 7 - 8 psi right to the point of the truck shutting down. It doesn't drop pressure, even a little, and then die - it's steady pressure and the engine dies, and even after it dies for 30 seconds or so the gauge stays at 7 - 8. This would seem to indicate that everything to the filter is flowing and pumping properly?

I always like the huge performance improvement f a fresh rebuilt injection pump from a reputable rebuilder. Fixes a lot of ills at one time.
I agree with you there. My plan today is to start it, wait for it to die, then pull the pink wire and see if I hear any clicking of the solenoid when I touch it back. If it's just the solenoid I'd prefer to swap it out for now.

The road I was on has a loooooong steep uphill section, and I was thinking about how strong the motor was pulling those three tons up it. On hot summer days I've had my foot all the way in it climbing that hill and still losing speed, but that day being cool my foot wasn't at the floor and I was accelerating. All to say, the fuel system and IP seemed to be strong before the engine quit a ten miles later.

Good Luck and Happy Thanksgiving.
Same to you and yours! Hope you can enjoy it with family there.
 
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