-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What's the longest box you can mount on M1078 bed?
- Thread starter Mangchi
- Start date
Third From Texas
Well-known member
- 2,766
- 6,498
- 113
- Location
- Corpus Christi Texas
Are you relocating the spare/air intake?
No. Trying to keep the modifications to a minimum. Thinking of mounting used Morgan box onto the bed with a torsion free subframe in between. Do you think it is possible to fit a 24 footer? Or should I get a M1088 instead?
Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,845
- 7,474
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
24’ box on a 1078? I wouldn’t do it. I am removing my spare tire and planning the habitat to go right up against the cab. With that added room my latest design is 17’-8” and extends 35” past the back end of the frame with the bottom rear corner removed to keep the original 40 degree exit angle.
What your describing on a 1078 and not going past the bulkhead with the box i couldnt see going over 14 to 15 ft box if you can dovetail the back of the box if not i wouldnt go past 14 ft box . If you havnt bought the truck yet you have to make up your mind how long of a box you can live with but using a 1083 or 1088 its not practicle for no more than 20 rt box if you start at the back of the cab with a 40 inch dovetail to pull that off. Im running a 20 ft box on a 1083 and a 40 inch dove tail useing a 7 ft tall box on the factory bed which makes me 12 ft talland if i did it again i would go to a 6 ft 6 in tall box for 11 ft 6
Third From Texas
Well-known member
- 2,766
- 6,498
- 113
- Location
- Corpus Christi Texas
I agree with Chucky. I wouldn't go over 14' w/o relocating the spare and air intake (16' if you did relocate).
I have a 22' box planned for a 1088 chassis. Just starting to put the metal together but I think it'll work. Going to build the over-chassis portion of it first and then add on the tail section once the forward structure is fabbed. Plan is to look bit like this (spare has been removed, intake reconfigured, box will extend forward to the vertical 2X4 behind the cab):
...but sometimes plans change.
...but sometimes plans change.
I am in the process of moving my camper box from my M1078 to a new (to me) M1083. We extended the frame on the M1078 by 36". It worked just fine if you can keep the camper lighter than I did. All in the camper is around 4500#. I really don't think this is a big deal for the truck. After removing the original bed, I think the net additional weight is around 3000lbs. Buddies that drove these in the military tell me they routinely loaded them down a lot more than that. The upper section of the camper is 20' long. The rear angle gives us extra space inside. That said, the additional space comes at a cost. The first is being able to use the installed pintle hitch. I did install a beefy receiver hitch on the back of the frame extension ... but it is not the same. Related to that installation is that it reduces your take away angle on the back of the truck a few degrees. Not a huge issue if you are not planning to go too far into rock crawling ... but still a consideration. The second big issue related to the angled box is that it makes creating a rear lift (for a motorcycle or spare tires) a challenge. So for me, when a well sorted M1083 became available near me (ie: fast axles, winch, etc) I jumped on it. So this winter I will rebuild the M1083 .... then remount the box onto it. Even with the slightly longer 1083 (172") frame, I will be adding 26" frame extension to accommodate the plan to build an hydraulic lift for my bike. Anyway the attached picture should give you an idea as to how this looks on the 1078.
All things considered, if I had it all to do over again, I would have loved to have found an M1096 to use as a platform ... long frame and able to tow big trailers.
Hope this is helpful in figuring out what you want to do.
All things considered, if I had it all to do over again, I would have loved to have found an M1096 to use as a platform ... long frame and able to tow big trailers.
Hope this is helpful in figuring out what you want to do.
Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,845
- 7,474
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
this is what 17’-9”(213”) looks like on a 1078 chassis with the tire and filter relocated...
Last edited:
Looks good what will be interior ceiling height from floor?
I bet you will be much happier with the 1083 and a lot more stable with that length box and u wont have that dangerous tail swing .
Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,845
- 7,474
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
As drawn here 6’-4” with the overall vehicle height at 11’-2”. this is the minimum I can really go, and may push the internal height up to 6’-6”. Trying to keep the overall height under 11‘-6” with the solar panels and guards mounted... I also have it drawn with 3” walls and a 4-5” arched ceiling(4” at edge 5” in center). I could probably do a 3-4” arched ceiling and gain another inch inside without too much loss in roof structural strength... but I want good insulation
Thats what i wish i had done is 6 in shorter headroom for 11 ft 6 overall and look at having it spray foamed to keep the box from sweating moisture in the walls in certain times of the year/climateAs drawn here 6’-4” with the overall vehicle height at 11’-2”. this is the minimum I can really go, and may push the internal height up to 6’-6”. Trying to keep the overall height under 11‘-6” with the solar panels and guards mounted... I also have it drawn with 3” walls and a 4-5” arched ceiling(4” at edge 5” in center). I could probably do a 3-4” arched ceiling and gain another inch inside without too much loss in roof structural strength... but I want good insulation
Good looking build and what i would have given to have a shop to build mine in ! Being out in the hot summer sun in the driveway for a year and a half is b.s. keep up the good work
This sounds like the best option - 20 ft box with a dovetail. Do you have a pic of your rig? How did you fabricate the box and did you use a anti-torsion subframe? Thanks!
I finally got around to asking someone to post my pics (Thanks to MULLANEY) The post is here in fmtv under I just painted my 1083 camper RAPCO 383 green
- 1,506
- 1,174
- 113
- Location
- TN
Did you build your box or buy? Looks great!
With help building the aluminum frame from a talented son that can weld .... I built it myself. I did make a Youtube video of the build that you might find interesting. I gained a lot by watching folk's videos on the web ...
- 1,506
- 1,174
- 113
- Location
- TN
The build is definitely something to be proud of! I need to borrow your garage ! ; ) I assume there is no subframe suspension. That much aluminum must have cost a bundle, BUT saved a lot of weight.
It has been an interesting build. My view of this process is that they are such a reflection of the builder and what resources they have at hand. Some people have access to wood ... their camper is wood based. Some people have metal working skills ... their camper ends up metal based, Some people are skilled with fiberglass so their box is like a boat. ( Then there are the people that have enough money ... they just buy one!
)In hindsight I wish I could have sheathed the aluminum frame with 1/2" fiberglass composite panels instead of OSB. With OSB I had to go to so much effort to make sure moisture never seeps in to the box. I also wanted to be sure that the sides were fair and were not "wavy" (from my past life racing sailboats) I am confident that it is secure and strong ... but it was a lot of man hours and effort. With composite panels I think a lot of the work would not have been necessary. On the other hand ... doing it the way I did there are no seams and the sides are straight and fair. It is all a question of trade-offs.
I don't know exactly what it weighs. I suspect it is around 4500lbs. When I move it over to the new truck I will be able to tell exactly. At that point, knowing that the bed I removed was 2600 lbs ... the net payload weight should be around 2000 lbs. Certainly this will be no problem for the M1083.
