Help! MEP-002a starts then immediately the solenoid kills the engine-what all can trigger this???

[Tpoole]

I searched the net and the forum and could not find the answer, tested the oil pressure sensor and its good as well as the engine temp sensor? and it was good. My generator has no fuel tank but i'm not sure that that would trigger the shutdown of the engine. I also have read the manual and wiring (that i could not figure out) all that said i need help.
1) What are all the conditions in which the engine will trigger the shutdown fuel pump solenoid?
2)separate question: can the engine work properly on one fuel pump? seems like its max rpm is lower than 1800
3)hertz gauge barely moves when cranked, i can tell its working by slightly moving but still WAY off from 65 hertz; 110 does work with lights plugged in.
thank you for any advise you can give!

 

[Scoobyshep]

when is it shutting off? right as you release the start switch? the oil pressure and temp switch will shut it down, and loss of K1

yes it can run on 1 pump

these gauges can lie to you, verify frequency with a meter

 

[Ray70]

Assuming that all your wiring is in tact, the oil and temp switches are the first thing that come to mind that would shut it off, but sounds like you have already checked both. Might need to confirm the wiring is correct and no loose connections.
You only need 1 primary fuel pump for it to run.
Are you able to increase engine speed with the throttle, or is it all the way out and you still can't get 1800 RPM?
It sounds like your engine id running too slow, you need to get the Hz up to 60 or slightly more.

 

[Tpoole]

when is it shutting off? right as you release the start switch? the oil pressure and temp switch will shut it down, and loss of K1

yes it can run on 1 pump

these gauges can lie to you, verify frequency with a meter

Right when it starts, what is a loss to k1? Can you elaborate a little bit please? How do I check that? Thank you for the help!

 

[Tpoole]

Assuming that all your wiring is in tact, the oil and temp switches are the first thing that come to mind that would shut it off, but sounds like you have already checked both. Might need to confirm the wiring is correct and no loose connections.
You only need 1 primary fuel pump for it to run.
Are you able to increase engine speed with the throttle, or is it all the way out and you still can't get 1800 RPM?
It sounds like your engine id running too slow, you need to get the Hz up to 60 or slightly more.

The pull out throttle lever increases slightly then it reduces back down. All this is with the solenoid jumped to 24 v

 

[Scoobyshep]

Right when it starts, what is a loss to k1? Can you elaborate a little bit please? How do I check that? Thank you for the help!

K1 (start relay) is energized from the start position of the start switch, (its also parallel to K5 (gov solenoid) when K1 closes it holds itself in as long as the set is in run and oil is ok and temp is ok. if high heat or low oil K1 drops out. If the K1 contact isnt passing current and start is released then the gov solenoid (K5) will loose power.

 

[Tpoole]

K1 (start relay) is energized from the start position of the start switch, (its also parallel to K5 (gov solenoid) when K1 closes it holds itself in as long as the set is in run and oil is ok and temp is ok. if high heat or low oil K1 drops out. If the K1 contact isnt passing current and start is released then the gov solenoid (K5) will loose power.

You are amazing! What would you advise trying to test? I tested the oil pressure sensor and it was good and the temp sensor on the far side of the engine and it was good. I am just jumping the terminals to test is there another way or something else that I can try?

 

[Scoobyshep]

You are amazing! What would you advise trying to test? I tested the oil pressure sensor and it was good and the temp sensor on the far side of the engine and it was good. I am just jumping the terminals to test is there another way or something else that I can try?

If you are sure that the oil and temp switches are good, I would meter TB5-7 with the switch in run (since you are getting fuel pump I suspect this is good, then TB5-8 to battery negative, This should go to 24 volt as soon as you start cranking.

 

[Tpoole]

If you are sure that the oil and temp switches are good, I would meter TB5-7 with the switch in run (since you are getting fuel pump I suspect this is good, then TB5-8 to battery negative, This should go to 24 volt as soon as you start cranking.

Okay, I have not tested the wires but the even with the oil sensor unscrewed it did not change the kill solonoid turn the engine off after start, fuel pumps kick on great. I discovered a washer out of place on one of the pumps so due to the advice I got here I was able to fix the broken pump so I have two working fuel pumps.
1)what would be the fix if the wires don't test correctly?
2) something that caught my eye is unless I jump the kill solinoid to the battery the battery gauge on the panel does not work in every other situation, engine running or not.
3) how much fuel should be coming through the ip overflow? Mine only drips every little while....never more is this normal?

 

[Scoobyshep]

Okay, I have not tested the wires but the even with the oil sensor unscrewed it did not change the kill solonoid turn the engine off after start, fuel pumps kick on great. I discovered a washer out of place on one of the pumps so due to the advice I got here I was able to fix the broken pump so I have two working fuel pumps.
1)what would be the fix if the wires don't test correctly?
2) something that caught my eye is unless I jump the kill solinoid to the battery the battery gauge on the panel does not work in every other situation, engine running or not.
3) how much fuel should be coming through the ip overflow? Mine only drips every little while....never more is this normal?

Battery gauge is fed from k1

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[Tpoole]

Battery gauge is fed from k1

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What is the normal part to replace if the sensors are good?

 

[Scoobyshep]

What is the normal part to replace if the sensors are good?

Could be the relay or wiring, need to test. Are you competent with the use of a volt meter?

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[Tpoole]

Could be the relay or wiring, need to test. Are you competent with the use of a volt meter?

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I am but this generator is really new to me and it makes me nervous, also with no fuel tank I figured it had to be related to the plug bieng disconnected. I do appreciate your help and patience. Last question: mine has one threaded pipe for the exhaust, I looked with no luck, is there a direct bolt on muffler?

 

[Scoobyshep]

Not to my knowledge. That wire hanging from the box below the exhaust pipe, it looks like that may be the temperature sensor leads. If so that may be your problem

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[Tpoole]

Where would it plug in? Do you happen to have a picture of yours?

 

[Scoobyshep]

Where would it plug in? Do you happen to have a picture of yours?

There should be a sensor, i can get you a pic tomorrow evening

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[Tpoole]

Where would it plug in? Do you happen to have a picture of yours?

 

[Tpoole]

does this look correct?

 

[Light in the Dark]

So for the LOP switch, all you have to do to test this is undo the leads off of it, and temporarily hook them together (simple nut and bolt will accomplish this). Without touching anything else, then try to crank it over and see if she fires.

The temp sensor is going through the side of your louver assy... the wires hanging out of the louvers, where are they coming from?

 

[Tpoole]

These came from the temp sensor, I thought the temp sensors were attached to both sides of the block right over the ip pump. So I put the wires together and put them on to the temp sensor, turned it on and it burned through the ground strap. I could have attached the wrong connector to it. I have no fuel tank so there was one that had a 90 and one strait. It was killing the engine with the straight one plugged in so I tried the 90 and it burned through the ground strap. I hope it's related and I don't have another issue.

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