• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

anyone ever moved a steering tube "up" on an m35a2 dash panel?

kovi

New member
13
11
3
Location
Bath PA
I've read a hundred threads on chubby and tall guys like me. I already plan on changing the steering wheel to the 18" from an A3. I also understand that the steering tube is a one piece, straight shot into the steering box but, has anyone ever taken the mounting block off of the dash, cut the notch higher and moved the bracket and tube "up" to give more leg room?
 

davidb56

Well-known member
1,020
1,237
113
Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
I've read a hundred threads on chubby and tall guys like me. I already plan on changing the steering wheel to the 18" from an A3. I also understand that the steering tube is a one piece, straight shot into the steering box but, has anyone ever taken the mounting block off of the dash, cut the notch higher and moved the bracket and tube "up" to give more leg room?
thats a lot of work. In that case, I'd cut the tube and shaft, install a steering U-joint and move the steering wheel toward the window like a old cab over truck had, but with the second section ( lower) through the fire wall, in its original place.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
You guys say that like there is power steering in these trucks! BWAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Do you realize the bracing needed to hold everything in place for a U-joint? The torque applied to the steering wheel will be transmitted down the line.
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
5,523
2,028
113
Location
London England
EEZY PEEZI, Just take out the bolts on the original holding bracket, Lift the column to the max, Mark and re drill. Then fit nuts and bolts.
I have done thus to all my trucks,
And I am 152IBS. I also moved the seats back after grinding out the cab back strut. I am really comfy in all my trucks and have ample leg room..
 

kovi

New member
13
11
3
Location
Bath PA
EEZY PEEZI, Just take out the bolts on the original holding bracket, Lift the column to the max, Mark and re drill. Then fit nuts and bolts.
I have done thus to all my trucks,
And I am 152IBS. I also moved the seats back after grinding out the cab back strut. I am really comfy in all my trucks and have ample leg room..
It looks like the tube is strong enough but, will it put too much stress on the steering box seal and make it start to leak? god knows we don't need to ADD to our leak issues LOL
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
Folks considering moving the tube up, are you planning to bend it or unbolt the steering gear and redrill the frame?
 

davidb56

Well-known member
1,020
1,237
113
Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
Folks considering moving the tube up, are you planning to bend it or unbolt the steering gear and redrill the frame?
they'd have to add a steering U joint somewhere to keep the gear in place. Old IH cabovers had it and didn't have power steering, so its doable if someone really wanted to go through all that trouble. Mine has a air operated seat from another commercial truck installed by the previous owner.
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
5,523
2,028
113
Location
London England
It looks like the tube is strong enough but, will it put too much stress on the steering box seal and make it start to leak? god knows we don't need to ADD to our leak issues LOL
I don't seem to recall that ther was any force at all needed to lift the column, But now youv'e mentioned it I will check out in the barn tomorrow.
 

V8srfun

Well-known member
423
538
93
Location
Altoona pa
I am not exactly a lightweight 5,9 at 240 and have no problem with the factory position of the wheel. Honestly I like it on the closer side for many reasons. One is that it is easier to steer being close and if you move it away you are just going to lean forward to grab it anyway. Pay attention to yourself when driving down a twisty road and you will realize you naturally pull your back off the seat to get closer to the wheel. Now if you have assisted steering do what ever floats your boat but if not I would heavily consider moving the wheel or decreasing the size of it.
 

kovi

New member
13
11
3
Location
Bath PA
I am not exactly a lightweight 5,9 at 240 and have no problem with the factory position of the wheel. Honestly I like it on the closer side for many reasons. One is that it is easier to steer being close and if you move it away you are just going to lean forward to grab it anyway. Pay attention to yourself when driving down a twisty road and you will realize you naturally pull your back off the seat to get closer to the wheel. Now if you have assisted steering do what ever floats your boat but if not I would heavily consider moving the wheel or decreasing the size of it.
I get what you're saying. I'm 6'2' and 260 and the bottom of the wheel is almost against my lap when the spring seat is at its highest point. dont wanna move the seat down because ...legs are long and clutch is too close so... I'm definitely putting the 18" wheel on but, i'm still trying to figger out how shortening the column would give more room... i don't think that particular mod would work for me. if it won't stress the steering tube for me to raise the dash clamp 1 or 2 inches... that would be the trick for me.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
I get what you're saying. I'm 6'2' and 260 and the bottom of the wheel is almost against my lap when the spring seat is at its highest point. dont wanna move the seat down because ...legs are long and clutch is too close so... I'm definitely putting the 18" wheel on but, i'm still trying to figger out how shortening the column would give more room... i don't think that particular mod would work for me. if it won't stress the steering tube for me to raise the dash clamp 1 or 2 inches... that would be the trick for me.
Consider the rear cushion on the springer seat. It's a lot thicker than it needs to be. Might try a thinner cushion to see if it helps a bit.
 

gringeltaube

Staff Member
Super Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,987
2,526
113
Location
Montevideo/Uruguay
if it won't stress the steering tube for me to raise the dash clamp 1 or 2 inches... that would be the trick for me.
Two inches is a lot! From factory there is a bit of "give" - but not so much really - between the 4 bolts attaching the steering gear to the frame and the corresponding holes. 1/2- 3/4" up on the dash-bracket is all I would possibly go.

For anything more than that, the holes in the frame & reinforcement plate need to be filed out accordingly to make sure that the column is not being forced/bent.
 

Attachments

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
6,426
4,985
113
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Steering wheels had to do with mechanical leverage

1954 Jag I owned was 16" Recirculating Ball 16" wheels
1951 Chevy was 15" with 15" wheels Recirculating Ball steering
1947 to 1953 trucks was 16" Recirculating Ball
MGA was 16-1/2"
1965 MGB was rack+ pinion 15" wheels, best steering I have ever driven......

In the "old daze" they were larger to give at least some advantage.


A very long time ago as a child I always did read Uncles' newspapers which invariably had photo of someone impaled on the steering wheel.
Though the collapsible steering column was invented in the 1930s, GM didn't begin installing them until 1967.



The first power steering system on a vehicle was apparently installed in 1876 by a man with the surname of Fitts, but little else is known about him.[1] The next power steering system was put on a Columbia 5-ton truck in 1903 where a separate electric motor was used to assist the driver in turning the front wheels.[1][2]

Robert E. Twyford, a resident of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, included a mechanical power steering mechanism as part of his patent (U.S. Patent 646,477) issued on April 3, 1900 for the first four-wheel drive system.[3]

Francis W. Davis, an engineer of the truck division of Pierce-Arrow, began exploring how steering could be made easier, and in 1926 invented and demonstrated the first practical power steering system.[4][5][6] Davis moved to General Motors and refined the hydraulic-assisted power steering system, but the automaker calculated it would be too expensive to produce.[5] Davis then signed up with Bendix, a parts manufacturer for automakers. Military needs during World War II for easier steering on heavy vehicles boosted the need for power assistance on armored cars and tank-recovery vehicles for the British and American armies.[5]

Chrysler Corporation introduced the first commercially available passenger car power steering system on the 1951 Chrysler Imperial under the name "Hydraguide".[7] The Chrysler system was based on some of Davis' expired patents. General Motors introduced the 1952 Cadillac with a power steering system using the work Davis had done for the company almost twenty years earlier.

Charles F. Hammond from Detroit filed several patents for improvements of power steering with the Canadian Intellectual Property Office in 1958.[8][9]
[10]

I never thought about it much as my Deuce had hydraulic power steering, and I always wanted a suicide knob in my Maybellene 66 caddy 390 four speed but hardly had a dime to my name.
 
Last edited:
46
17
18
Location
Chester , VA
Steering wheels had to do with mechanical leverage

1954 Jag I owned was 16" Recirculating Ball 16" wheels
1951 Chevy was 15" with 15" wheels Recirculating Ball steering
1947 to 1953 trucks was 16" Recirculating Ball
MGA was 16-1/2"
1965 MGB was rack+ pinion 15" wheels, best steering I have ever driven......

In the "old daze" they were larger to give at least some advantage.


A very long time ago as a child I always did read Uncles' newspapers which invariably had photo of someone impaled on the steering wheel.
Though the collapsible steering column was invented in the 1930s, GM didn't begin installing them until 1967.



The first power steering system on a vehicle was apparently installed in 1876 by a man with the surname of Fitts, but little else is known about him.[1] The next power steering system was put on a Columbia 5-ton truck in 1903 where a separate electric motor was used to assist the driver in turning the front wheels.[1][2]

Robert E. Twyford, a resident of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, included a mechanical power steering mechanism as part of his patent (U.S. Patent 646,477) issued on April 3, 1900 for the first four-wheel drive system.[3]

Francis W. Davis, an engineer of the truck division of Pierce-Arrow, began exploring how steering could be made easier, and in 1926 invented and demonstrated the first practical power steering system.[4][5][6] Davis moved to General Motors and refined the hydraulic-assisted power steering system, but the automaker calculated it would be too expensive to produce.[5] Davis then signed up with Bendix, a parts manufacturer for automakers. Military needs during World War II for easier steering on heavy vehicles boosted the need for power assistance on armored cars and tank-recovery vehicles for the British and American armies.[5]

Chrysler Corporation introduced the first commercially available passenger car power steering system on the 1951 Chrysler Imperial under the name "Hydraguide".[7] The Chrysler system was based on some of Davis' expired patents. General Motors introduced the 1952 Cadillac with a power steering system using the work Davis had done for the company almost twenty years earlier.

Charles F. Hammond from Detroit filed several patents for improvements of power steering with the Canadian Intellectual Property Office in 1958.[8][9]
[10]

I never thought about it much as my Deuce had hydraulic power steering, and I always wanted a suicide knob in my Maybellene 66 caddy 390 four speed but hardly had a dime to my name.
great thread ....very impressive ....you did all the work and I learned stuff .....
 

67Beast

Well-known member
983
500
93
Location
Silver Lake Sand Dunes MI.
Want the most room? Ditch the spring ride seat for the old box style seat. I'm 6'4" 250 and have plenty of room in mine with the box style seat. I climbed into a buddies one time that had the spring seat, and it was way to cramped for me to drive. I would rather have the comfort of fitting over the ride quality any day.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks