Rust is the enemy!

[1love]

Hey SS,

Perhaps some of you fine fellows and ladies can help me, I would like to coat my under body before the rust gets any worse. I know I have to remove the rust but what has been a proven method that works? 1: Remove rust with sand paper or wire wheel. 2: coat it with? 3: Then paint it? Any help will be great! I will add pictures of my new M1009 once I get it I just want to prepare and make it my DD.

 

[cucvrus]

That is beyond just wire brushing and coating. If you have the time it would be best to thoroughly power wash and get under there and clean up everything you can. Using wire wheels and sand paper will help a great deal. But keep in mind. Rust is like an iceberg you only see what is on the surface. And in this case there is much hidden below the surface that can not be reached. These old trucks were rust problems from day 1. Anything thing you do to slow its decay is a plus. But you will never stop it. Do the best you can with what you have and that is about all you can do. If you are real energetic you could remove the body from the frame and have the bottom side powder blasted and coated but as I stated the internal rust has a permanent hold and remains hungry and eats every time it gets moisture. Good Luck. Do your best clean it up and slow it down. On the inner fender aprons I would just replace them and coat the new ones thoroughly before installation. Good Luck.

 

[Sharecropper]

This is the best stuff I have ever used. On all my parts, I usually media-blast them in my cabinet and then immediately spray them down with this product. The liquid runs into every nook and cranny. I wipe off the excess and allow them to thoroughly dry and then spray prime them with red oxide primer. If I am trying to fill in a few pits or small dings, I will spray additional coats, sanding in between each coat. When the surface is flat with no imperfections, I then spray the color. Hope this helps.

 

[1love]

This is the best stuff I have ever used. On all my parts, I usually media-blast them in my cabinet and then immediately spray them down with this product. The liquid runs into every nook and cranny. I wipe off the excess and allow them to thoroughly dry and then spray prime them with red oxide primer. If I am trying to fill in a few pits or small dings, I will spray additional coats, sanding in between each coat. When the surface is flat with no imperfections, I then spray the color. Hope this helps.

Thanks! Big time helps!!! I knew there was some paint or process so your post helped BIG time thank you!!! You Da Man!!!

 

[1love]

That is beyond just wire brushing and coating. If you have the time it would be best to thoroughly power wash and get under there and clean up everything you can. Using wire wheels and sand paper will help a great deal. But keep in mind. Rust is like an iceberg you only see what is on the surface. And in this case there is much hidden below the surface that can not be reached. These old trucks were rust problems from day 1. Anything thing you do to slow its decay is a plus. But you will never stop it. Do the best you can with what you have and that is about all you can do. If you are real energetic you could remove the body from the frame and have the bottom side powder blasted and coated but as I stated the internal rust has a permanent hold and remains hungry and eats every time it gets moisture. Good Luck. Do your best clean it up and slow it down. On the inner fender aprons I would just replace them and coat the new ones thoroughly before installation. Good Luck.

Cheese and Rice! I would love to powder coat the frame but that would require a larger garage which I'm limited at the moment =[. is there any areas you suggest I pay closer attention to on the cab? I say the frame is good it's just the cab I know that will need some touching up and whatnot. Thanks for the input and help.

 

[Skinny]

This is great shape for where I live.

Wire wheel on surface rust. Prime, paint, then apply oil. No rubberized undercoat garbage.

Fender is going to need a welder or panel replacement.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

 

[1love]

This is great shape for where I live.

Wire wheel on surface rust. Prime, paint, then apply oil. No rubberized undercoat garbage.

Fender is going to need a welder or panel replacement.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Correct no rubber undercoating I've heard the horror stories online about the rust building under the rubber. Does anyone have a quart panel for sale?

 

[cucvrus]

Call this what you want but I have used it for over 40 years and have had great results. I started using it at the GM dealer in the late 70's and it holds up well. So opinions on different coatings will vary. When it dries it does not transfer and stay gooey like other aerosol under coatings I have seen and used. I sprayed many CUCV's and other vehicles with this stuff. I also sprayed under wood shed floors with it and it held up well. After seeing the rust on that floor area when it is cleaned up and Rusfre is applied you will be happy. It seals and protects. Take Care and Be Safe.

Amazon.com

 

[Sharecropper]

I sprayed many CUCV's and other vehicles with this stuff. I also sprayed under wood shed floors with it and it held up well.

Amazon.com

Rick - you say you SPRAY that stuff? Would you care to be more pacific? The Amazon ad is for a brush product.

Say, I really like that chrome-plated funnel on the table behind them those jugs.

 

[cucvrus]

Amazon.com

I was reading into the posters message deeply and thought he had no means to apply the spray type so I recommended the brush on type. Either way it works well. That is as well as the area that is to be coated is properly prepped and cleaned. The top coating is only 1% of the finished product. 99% of the work goes into the proper cleanup, prep, and application. After all you can paint a turd but it won't last long. Just remember "Rust never sleeps and on a quiet night in Jonestown I can hear the CUCV's rusting at Fort Indiantown Gap. It's not as loud as it used to be but the sound is still there.

 

[Keith_J]

Prep n Etch , a brand of phosphoric acid, from a pump up sprayer. Let it work until almost dry, then pressure wash. Repeat until bare. It is a good fertilizer so don't worry.
Once clean, then POR over the flash rust..roller or brush.
Top coat with frame paint.

This cleans off the grease too.

Patch panels from LMC Truck.

 

[nyoffroad]

View attachment 824452
Call this what you want but I have used it for over 40 years and have had great results. I started using it at the GM dealer in the late 70's and it holds up well. So opinions on different coatings will vary. When it dries it does not transfer and stay gooey like other aerosol under coatings I have seen and used. I sprayed many CUCV's and other vehicles with this stuff. I also sprayed under wood shed floors with it and it held up well. After seeing the rust on that floor area when it is cleaned up and Rusfre is applied you will be happy. It seals and protects. Take Care and Be Safe.

Amazon.com

Love the Rusfre products, they also have an amber colored non drying product for inside doors, rockers, ectra that flows out great! When ever I replace doors I tape up the drain holes at the bottom and spray or pour some in the door and let set for a few minutes then turn on each side for a bit. It seeps into all the cracks between the door skin and the frame, just don't do this until AFTER painting! Great product at a very reasonable price

 

[mtperkins]

I really love using Chassis Saver. So far so good.

 

[tom lovinggood]

I really love using Chassis Saver. So far so good. View attachment 824767

Has anyone tried that NH Oil under coating on their trucks?

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

That fender rust can only be repaired by welding. There are patch panels from Korea that are very affordable. I have used them and I lap the panels when I can get away with it, then seam seal the heck out of everything. The rust converter stuff is great and you can get it by the gallon online.

For the undercarriage shots, I would seriously consider wire brushing + a product called POR. It's not cheap, but it combines the rust conversion with a very tough paint. I've used it on problem areas before and been very impressed by it.

Any rust-through though - you have to weld it.

 

[ldmack3]

The M35 has removable fenders. Mine were horrible rusted. I have spent weeks grinding, welding etc. Now that I'm getting close I figured out to take the internals out of my benchtop blast unit, and take them outside with a bucket of media to blast different areas of the frame and body easily. Perhaps you can do this on your 1009. There are so many options for treating, removing, encapsulating rust I really haven't decided which way I want to go. A buddy that has spent decades doing body and interior on 1950s cars swears by POR15. I'll let you know what I decide but think about using your blast gun and a bucket of media to do the underside if you can't pull the body.

 

[1love]

Thank you all for taking the time to response I will add pictures once I receive my m1009 I'm still waiting for it that darn snow storm didn't help! Figured that I would have to weld that quater panel, anyone have one for sale?

 

[1love]

That fender rust can only be repaired by welding. There are patch panels from Korea that are very affordable. I have used them and I lap the panels when I can get away with it, then seam seal the heck out of everything. The rust converter stuff is great and you can get it by the gallon online.

For the undercarriage shots, I would seriously consider wire brushing + a product called POR. It's not cheap, but it combines the rust conversion with a very tough paint. I've used it on problem areas before and been very impressed by it.

Any rust-through though - you have to weld it.

By chance do you have a link for that web site?

 

[Keith_J]

Lap seams can trap moisture, causing accelerated rusting. If you must lap, be sure to seal it well on the inside.
I match cut, fit up for minimum gap and use short interrupted back stitch welds. Take time to avoid heat buildup. And practice on scraps to adjust settings for full penetration

 

[ldmack3]

By chance do you have a link for that web site?

POR-15 - Professional automotive & industrial coatings for permanent rust & corrosion protection.