1985 M1009 still rolling

[scooter421]

Extended hitch? Be careful.

I'm not assuming you don't know what your doing I just think that they are not very safe personally.

Not a hitch extension/extender if that's how my post read. It's just regular Curt 2" hitch but longer than standard. the longer hitch has far more capacity than I would ever attempt to pull with the M1009 even if it could do it. I think the longer hitch has a rating of 7500lbs, I don't remember tongue weight. I can just barely pick up the tongue when I'm ready to go; therefore, I know I'm not exceeding the tongue weight. Other than a slim possibility of a departure angle issue, it'll be fine providing sway does not become a problem. Short tow vehicle, short trailer....I'll find out! I stay on two track or forest roads when I'm out. No rock crawling with or without the trailer . The trailer weighs 1700lbs, with gear and two people total, I should be pulling/carrying about 2300~2500lbs.

Scooter...

 

[scooter421]

Still nothing on the turbo; so, I'm picking away at other ideas.
Considering I'm hoping to tow the trailer with the M1009, I bought a transmission temperature gauge. They sure did not give the driver much to go on back in the day. By the time the "idiot" or trouble lights ever came on the goose was pretty well cooked! I'll tie into the test port on the transmission for the sending unit. I'm hoping there is enough room next to the voltage meter at the dash to install the new gauge. If not, I'll need to move it down where the civi radio would go. I'd like to install a couple additional gauges there though. I'll try to remember and get pictures during the install.

Scooter...

 

[kendelrio]

Outstanding job and writeup! I'm impressed with your electrical acuity.

 

[scooter421]

Outstanding job and writeup! I'm impressed with your electrical acuity.

Well thanks! Much appreciated sir.

My hope; like so many others here is to contribute enough information, ideas or inspiration for others to tinker/learn and get out to enjoy their respective vehicles. There are so many excellent builds and ideas here, it's just awesome. I learn something every time I peruse the forums!

Scooter...

 

[scooter421]

I managed to get the trans temperature gauge/kit installed today. I used a 2" hole saw and a deburring tool to finish the fit. If I'd used a 2-1/16 inch hole saw which is the diameter of the hole needed for this gauge, the hole would have been too sloppy. A hydraulic punch kit with the proper dies would be best but I do not have this kit. I had to trim a bit as you can see in order to make the gauge retainer fit. I routed the wire for the sending unit along side the speedo cable and through the firewall to avoid drilling a new hole.

I tied into the fuse block with "add a circuit" kit from Littlefuse sold at O'reilly's for $6.99 each. The "add a circuit" option is great as it allows you to get the power you need without splicing into wires or getting creative which I hate doing for many reasons. You can see someone in the past jammed a couple wires into the fuse block being creative. It works but I'll get to those eventually.

So; I added two circuits, one connected to the ignition circuit to energize the gauge/sending unit when the key is turned and the other to the instrument cluster circuit so the gauge light comes on with the headlights. No wire splicing, no need to get creative on acquiring power. You can see in the last picture how it works. You take out the existing fuse to the circuit you need access to, put old and new fuses in first to the correct spots (hard to do if you install harness first) and plug it in to where the old fuse was. Wire your device to the pig tail and you have power. It does cover up other fuses and take up space but like a fuse it just pulls out.

Obviously, the kit does not allow you to exceed the OEM fuse or wiring limitations. Keep that in mind as you're increasing the load on a circuit designed for a specific load limit. In my case the load increase for these items are minimal. Would I connect a radio or amplifier this way? No, I would run a separate dedicated circuit, properly wired and fused accordingly but that's just me.

The test drive was roughly 45 minutes at about 45mph in mild stop and go traffic at 82 degrees. I still need to get it out on the highway but I like what I'm seeing so far. Something tells me an auxiliary cooler is still going to be needed once I'm pulling the trailer. The heat and hills here in the valley are taxing on a vehicles cooling system, especially an old vehicle.

Scooter...

 

[chevymike]

Thanks for the pics. Looks great. Now I know where I can put my trans temp sender at. I heard you could use a port in the trans but no one ever seems to show which one.

 

[scooter421]

Not a hitch extension/extender if that's how my post read. It's just regular Curt 2" hitch but longer than standard. the longer hitch has far more capacity than I would ever attempt to pull with the M1009 even if it could do it. I think the longer hitch has a rating of 7500lbs, I don't remember tongue weight. I can just barely pick up the tongue when I'm ready to go; therefore, I know I'm not exceeding the tongue weight. Other than a slim possibility of a departure angle issue, it'll be fine providing sway does not become a problem. Short tow vehicle, short trailer....I'll find out! I stay on two track or forest roads when I'm out. No rock crawling with or without the trailer . The trailer weighs 1700lbs, with gear and two people total, I should be pulling/carrying about 2300~2500lbs.

Scooter...

I received the ball/hitch. I'll connect the trailer later this morning to see if it's going to give me enough clearance between the fuel cans and the front of the trailer when turning. If not, I'll be buying a tent! I may get one anyway so I don't need to deal with a trailer. I just hope I can still get off the ground in the morning!

The three inch drop on the old one was a bit much; so, I went with a two inch drop for the new one. Aside from the clearance of vehicle/trailer concerns with the other hitch it was really difficult to get the trailer tongue under the pintle. Spending my morning locating a flat spot to drop the trailer out in the woods when I have fish to find is not going to work out well!

This hitch has a 7500lb tow and a 750lb tongue weight capacity, exceeding the receiver tow capacity of 5000lbs and a tongue weight of 600lbs.

Scooter...

 

[scooter421]

Okay, it will work with the extended hitch if I omit one fuel can. At least I can still carry one back there while towing the trailer. The 2nd picture is with the short hitch, I had no fuel cans loaded up just in case and it's a good thing. I would have probably hit the trailer if I had a fuel can sitting in there. The extended hitch made it slightly more intuitive and easier to back up also.

Scooter...

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[Hughbam]

Slowly inching forward...finally!
The tire carrier is a Smittybilt XRC 2 and I'm making the mounting bracket/adapter to utilize the original M1009 tow points. This way, I can leave everything as stock as possible. I ordered the steel for the tow point online which was a match for the original steel but not cheap, shipping in particular. The steel delivered to my door was $153 for a 6 foot stick. I was unable to locate the 1-1/2' x 2" x 3/16" wall tubing locally. There was a minimum order/special order/extra high price....locally for far more steel than I needed anyway.

The seats are from a Chevy Uplander.. The mount comprises of 1/8" steel plate and uni-strut all bolted/welded together.
More to come on the carrier as I finish up. I know others may be interested considering the limited availability of tire carrier options for the M1009.

As a side note, I mentioned the Sidewinder turbo in an earlier post. I was hoping I could find one sitting in a warehouse somewhere but I've had no luck. The Sidewinder kit for the 6.2 is no longer in production. Banks, says the turbo manufacturer stopped making the turbo and they've been unable to find a suitable replacement. I would imagine it's a financial decision NOT to chase a limited requested item as well. So, it's either find a used one or customizing a 6.5 turbo set up I guess. I saw another company advertising a kit for the Humvee's with the 6.2 here on the forum. It's obviously not going to be the same layout under the hood as the M1009. They want a fair bit of coin for the kit at around $4500.00.

Scooter...

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I did the sidewinder kit a few years ago and it was a good improvement. I did one ton axels and 4:10 gears. I still don't know if I'd tow with it in the mountains, but the flatlands would be fine.

 

[scooter421]

I did the sidewinder kit a few years ago and it was a good improvement. I did one ton axels and 4:10 gears. I still don't know if I'd tow with it in the mountains, but the flatlands would be fine.

Glad you were able to get one. New ones are apparently non existent. I'll figure something out eventually! I had to get a tow home today, now I have to figure that out. I started a new thread regarding what I'm working through here. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threa...ow-that-its-warmer-in-az.202222/#post-2355323

Scooter...

 

[Rutjes]

I've seen and looked at the ad from 6-5liter.com. You can do it for way less yourself.

Find a 6.5 turbo take-off with all the needed parts or get a turbo from PT Wiring Solutions or Quadstar Tuning. The latter is expensive though. You'll have to source the exhaust manifolds.

Quadstar also offers upper intake plenums. The "High Flow" one does not seem to have a option to select a N/A style flange, but they do show them in the product pictures. The "Straight Outlet" one does. I'd source a F code lower intake if the funds are available.

Exhaust will mostly be custom I think. Search for threads about that, not just in SS. Find a down pipe and crossover pipe and work from there.

 

[scooter421]

I'm working through problem of the M1009 running until it's up to temp and then having no start issues on the other thread. I completed this filter housing swap today and thought others may be interested if it's not already been done.

I used a 6.5 diesel fuel filter assembly with heater, primer bulb and WIF switch. I had to convert the wiring to fit the M1009 connections but was able to utilize the existing quick disconnects. I identified which wires triggered the dash WIF light and connected them to the new fuel filter housing accordingly. The heater was a no brainer. I made up a quick bracket and installed the housing. I had to use a variety of connections to go from 1/2 inch inlet/outlet on the new fuel filter housing to mate up with the stock fuel lines on the M1009. After two different hardware store visits, I managed to acquire the parts needed to complete adapters for the fuel lines.

The odds of being struck by lightning in your lifetime 1/3000. The odds of the hardware store being out of what you need the day you need it? I'd say 1/3?

I'm pretty sure there are only two different version of this housing with different hose positions. I got the one that most closely matched the M1009 hose positions.

The priming bulb is a God send! It started right up and quickly died, no surprise there after pulling the fuel lines though. It started up again without much trouble and smoothed out significantly. There was far less engine clatter than ever before accompanied by a lot more smoke than it's ever had. It appears to be getting more fuel but I'm still questioning the timing. It has a much stronger throttle response as well. I don't yet know what to make of the changes but they are notable for sure. I've not ruled out the IP yet at all. The first page of the instructions say the filter unit can be used on either the vacuum or pressure side of the fuel transfer pump. More tinkering awaits....



Scooter...

 

[scooter421]

I adjusted the IP timing to roughly 6 degrees advanced, little to no smoke but a little engine clatter which went away when it was warm. Fair enough and to be expected with too much advance. It idled pretty darn smooth with good throttle response with no load. I brought it back to roughly 2 to 3 degrees advanced, it started great, idled great, no clatter, virtually no smoke unless I rev'd the motor pretty good. At this point it's not sounded this smooth/good since I bought it. This again was with no load. So, I take it out for a spin around the block.

Absolutely no power under load and it took way too long for the RPM's to come up and get some speed. It did not die though and continued to idle smooth. That being said, I think the filter assembly swap fixed some of the issues, the slight advance helped too. However, the final remaining element of the IP is likely the culprit.

Scooter...

 

[scooter421]

I posted this in my other thread M1009 has no power now that it's warmer in AZ?. I'll put more details in this thread.

I installed the Tiny Tach at the same time I put in the rebuilt IP pump. It sure is nice to have for adjustments, diagnosing issues and general knowledge of what's happening under the hood. It's totally worth the money and a small amount of trouble of the install IMO.

I used a piece of 3/16 finishing plywood in place of the original radio delete plate. After a couple of test fits, beveled the edges, a little sanding and some paint it was done. I used the radio knob holes to secure the plate and fender washers which fit the holes perfectly to hold the plate in. There are fender washers on each side of the knob hole. I don't know what the screws are. I just had them laying around. The fender washers were the key to keeping the plate secure. The crazy part is that it worked out the first time! I did have to "route" out space for the Tiny Tach on the back-side of the mount for the face of the Tiny Tack to sit flush. Otherwise, it would have been recessed in the mount and I did not like the look.

The cover plate assembly in words. Screw-through new cover plate-fender washer fits flush inside the plastic radio knob hole-another fender washer behind the knob hole-lock washer-nut. Man, I need to get better at taking pictures while I'm working! I hope that makes sense.

Under the hood:
I ran the wires next to the speedo through the cab. I had to cut off the ring terminal provided with the Tiny Tach. They should send it loose with the kit unattached IMO. I grounded the white transducer wire with new ring terminal at the oil dipstick mounting stud. After cleaning off the fuel line, the transducer clamps on the fuel line to cylinder 1.

Inside the cab:
For the ground, I used a vacant ground tab located up above the floor vent pull rod on the driver side for the ground. I should have taken a picture of it as I'm sure there are a few people who don't know it's there. If you look up under the dash with a flashlight above the floor vent rod, you'll see it mounted on the side of the cab interior. For power, I used another "add a circuit" connector and tapped into the fuse block for power without splicing into any wires. Order the Add a Circuit connectors from Amazon BEFORE you need them. One of these at your local parts store cost almost as much as a pack of 10 from Amazon. All in all, it was relatively easy little project and very helpful to see what your RPM's are doing. Setting the idle and adjusting shift points is much easier.

Scooter...

 

[scooter421]

I purchased a winch mounting bracket from Engineered Vintage for the CUCV off Ebay. It works for the most part. I really liked the design since it allows a winch mounted behind the bumper without changing the bumper or moving it. At $500+ this was no easy decision but considering design time, trial and error, fab time, tools required, powder coating etc. I decided it was probably a good choice and I'd avoid a lot of headaches. The bracket kit comes to fit the civi K5 or the CUCV. However, no instructions came with it. Looking on their web page the instructions are there. Also, it may state it on Ebay but the kit does not come with most of the grade 8 hardware for the CUCV. The instruction online also tell you to remove the core support rivets, remove the reinforcement plate and drill another hole in the frame for the brackets. The rivets are replaced by bolts plus an extra bolt. I did not install it this way as I will likely never use the winch. I had to use washers to fill the gap (0.167 of an inch) created from leaving the reinforcement plate, open up a few holes due to the offset.

I figured the 4 bolts holding the winch on will give up long before the combination of frame bolts, the addition of a substantial winch mount (which is effectively another cross member) with an additional 8 grade 8 bolts. No Fast and Furious antics here. If it gives up the ghost, I'm probably doing something wrong anyhow.

Because I chose to do the through the bumper mount I did not use the remaining brackets that came with the kit. The additional grade 8 bolts to complete the install were roughly $25. Ultimately; it's expensive, and for the way I mounted it, you don't use 4 of the bracket components supplied. Paying for things you don't need and does not come with all the bolts sucks. It's easily an afternoon for the install. I did not remove the bumper for the install.

I don't really like the solenoid box hanging down in the front but I don't plan on rock crawling and it's well above the front diff. This was a limitation on the cables supplied with the winch. I may relocate the box later but for now I'm happy with the way it worked out. The winch works and it's not sticking off the front of the CUCV as a knee/shin basher.

The kit is really too expensive but I've not seen many quality options out there that tuck in nicely behind the bumper. Unless you're going to fab it yourself, what are you going to do?

Scooter...

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[scooter421]

Oh....the CUCV is starting fine after the glow plug relay replacement. No more Gremlins have shown up this week either. Keeping my fingers crossed!

Scooter...

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