Trouble Re-Installing Front Right Half Shaft After CV Boot

[Crapgame]

OK, went through the process to replace the portal hub side CV Boot on the right, front Halfshaft of 1994 M1097A1. I quadruple checked the components before stretching the boot over the cup and spindle ends, bearing cage taper side towards the hub. I crimped the CV Boot Bands, went to reinstall it, first by just giving the hub to Halfshaft retainer bolt a few turns to help keep the assembly in place while bolting up to the brake rotor.

When I crawled under to match it up with the brake rotor the shaft is acting like it is too long. I can pull the cup end and the Halfshaft will stretch out but it will not compress enough for the lip on the cup backside to fit against the brake rotor.

When I pulled it, I remember the Halfshaft contracted itself about 5mm or 1/4" or so when the last bolt was removed from the brake rotor.

I tried tapping it in place with a hammer against a piece of wood.

I tried turning the front wheels all the way to the right (which creates the largest distance between hub and the brake rotor). And I tried turning them all the way to the left.

I even attempted to install a NIW 10k Halfshaft Assembly instead, No Joy. Part #12342974-2 from Parts-Liquidator on ebay:
HMMWV/HUMVEE RIGHT, FRONT CV AXLE HALFSHAFT NSN2520-01-382-8728 PN12342974-2 | eBay

What are the odds I reassembled the original Halfshaft incorrectly and the NIW replacement are out of spec?

Anything else I can do without damaging myself or the equipment? I'd rather not be lying under a HMMWV hurting myself while casting 4 plus letter explectives on Easter Sunday as a stupid, inanimate object beats me. Short of ordering another set of CV Boot Bands to start from scratch again, I'm at my wits end.

 

[twisted60]

Is the hub supported ? I assume the front is jacked up off the ground. I had an issue putting a half shaft back in and once I raised the hub it lined everything up and half shaft slipped right in.

 

[Crapgame]

Portal hub is hanging by the A Arms right now, as it was when I removed the halfshaft. I'll try raising it with floor jack tomorrow to see if it helps. I suppose the portal hubs move on an arc, pivoting on the A Arms, there would be a sweet spot that is maximum outward swing. Reminds me, next major purchase needs to be one of those lightweight racing floor jacks.

I was looking at it thinking, man, I really hope I don't have to remove the ball joints just to install the halfshaft.

I have it in my mind it has to be something Simple-Stupid I'm missing. I'm not a mechanic like RWH I'm just a parts changer, although I did the majority of the labor on the HMMWV and M113-series I drove in the Big Army.

Thank you very much, I'm too beat right now, will try it first thing in the morning. Conditions and Standards for the Task are to replace the component without damaging one's self or the equipment.

 

[twisted60]

Getting tired, wheel / hub supported things will line up for you, let me know if that worked.

 

[Action]

You might try to swing the inner flange to the front or rear of rotor center and get it above the center. Then pull it in place. Also make sure the diff output flange is seated in the rotor.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Your NOS shaft is a Chinese knockoff...they are inherently garbage FYI.
make sure the shaft is fully seated into the upper spur gear, there is no reason to install the bolt till last.
attempt to rotate the inboard side of the shaft from the rear and up and into the rotor and flange.
I have installed and removed hundreds of shafts, so I know what your experiencing, I’ve had this issue only with the Chinese knock off shafts, not with OEM...but have had OEM tight.

 

[Crapgame]

10 pumps on the floor jack increased the space between the portal hub and the brake rotor by about 3/4" 2cm 20mm. That created enough space for it to slip right in. Then I got 3 bolts started to square it up, fought getting the 2nd on each 3rd in, discovered the rotor moves independent of the differential flanges. Once I used a long punch to line up a pair of holes it went back together fine, minus final torque at this point. I did use red Loctite 272, new 15mm bolts, new Nordloc 2pc lock washers.

RWH, concerning the NIW shaft (just what is "TACOM (Tank & Automotive Command)-approved anyway? Its either manufactured by the original CAGE mfg to the Spec or it isn't. I seriously doubt some parts hustler in GA had copies made in the PRC then submitted one to TACOM for destructive testing and acceptance),

I know I have had some God awful luck in the past but I was having trouble accepting I had both reassembled the 10k shaft wrong AND the NIW came from the factory oversized out of spec. It had to be something Simple-Stupid. I was watching the brake rotor and bolts when I did the final removal step so I wasn't watching if the portal hub on the A Arms went lower once the last rotor bolt was loosened and removed.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

10 pumps on the floor jack increased the space between the portal hub and the brake rotor by about 3/4" 2cm 20mm. That created enough space for it to slip right in. Then I got 3 bolts started to square it up, fought getting the 2nd on each 3rd in, discovered the rotor moves independent of the differential flanges. Once I used a long punch to line up a pair of holes it went back together fine, minus final torque at this point. I did use red Loctite 272, new 15mm bolts, new Nordloc 2pc lock washers.

RWH, concerning the NIW shaft (just what is "TACOM (Tank & Automotive Command)-approved anyway? Its either manufactured by the original CAGE mfg to the Spec or it isn't. I seriously doubt some parts hustler in GA had copies made in the PRC then submitted one to TACOM for destructive testing and acceptance),

I know I have had some God awful luck in the past but I was having trouble accepting I had both reassembled the 10k shaft wrong AND the NIW came from the factory oversized out of spec. It had to be something Simple-Stupid. I was watching the brake rotor and bolts when I did the final removal step so I wasn't watching if the portal hub on the A Arms went lower once the last rotor bolt was loosened and removed.

TACOM approved is utter BS and a lie...there is only one company that makes halfshafts for the military hmmwv and that’s GKN, the logo is stamped into the shaft housing. milspec shafts are also painted Black CARC, not some black dye and rusts within month. Your statement that some guy in Ga is a Hustler and had PRC make these parts is not to far off, my company has and continues to be approached by Chinese companies making these shafts and many many other parts, and at a fraction of the costs, problem is, it’s junk, don’t believe me? Go install a thermostatic switch disguised as TACOM, go install the overflow tank, see how long it lasts before the seam swells and bursts, than go install the washer fluid tank and motor...I just sent back 2 to MAC Motors that got into there inventor and Craig Boyk was like ...WTF!
Hopefully others will read this, but the way to ID Chinese parts is simple.
look for quality components, look for CAGE codes, NSN’s stamped or painted on the item, look for the way it’s packaged, what type wrapper is it in, not some cheap plastic bag, look at the box it comes in, is it quality cardboard or that cheap Amazon chinese crap cardboard. The US MILITARY requires all products to be capable of long term storage especially if it’s got any rubber in it Before it is re-certified for continued use and the end of life is reissued.