Need crash course in M1078 LMTV

[Awesomeness]

LOL

No seriously, there is a cage bolt holder on these trucks?

I've been carrying a set in my tool box for years. Is there seriously a stowage place for them on the LMTV?

It's right on the brake can assemblies. It's a hole... you put the cage bolt through, and put the nut on the other side.

 

[Third From Texas]

It's right on the brake can assemblies. It's a hole... you put the cage bolt through, and put the nut on the other side.

For stowage?

As in, if I ever need this I know where it will be?

I know how to cage a break can, I've just never seen a place to store the bolt.

 

[Third From Texas]

My cans have all had the plastic cover covering the hole.

 

[Awesomeness]

For stowage?

As in, if I ever need this I know where it will be?

I know how to cage a break can, I've just never seen a place to store the bolt.

Come on, man. You've been given the answer, at least go look at your truck or look it up in the manual. Yes, there is a hole on the side of the cans, where the bolts stow. No, it's not the hole on the end of the can, where you actually cage the brakes.

 

[Ronmar]

 

[DARKOP]

There is a metallic oil line between the drivers side of the cylinder head and the back side of the governor. It is looped out like a diving board and it can oscillate, work-harden and break if the truck has a lot of vibration. Most people have been replacing it with a braided -4 hose with -4 JIC connectors and a couple of -4JIC to -4SAE adapters. some use off the shelf teflon brake lines or have a hydraulic hose made, just be sure to watch the bend radius of whatever hose you use. Here are the parts I chose. The 9” line allows me to just maintain the minimum 2” bend radius for the -4 braided line.

JIC Male to SAE Male Swivel-Right Angle Extra Long | JIC to SAE O-ring | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

JIC Male to SAE Male Swivel-Right Angle Extra Long,JIC to SAE O-ring,Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings,Hydraulics, JIC 10 Male x SAE 10 Male 90 Degree

www.surpluscenter.com

JIC 4 Male x SAE 4 Male 45 Degree Elbow 6802-04-04 Adapter | JIC Male to SAE Male - 45 Degree | JIC to SAE O-ring | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

JIC 4 Male x SAE 4 Male 45 Degree Elbow 6802-04-04 Adapter, JIC Male to SAE Male - 45 Degree, JIC 4M TO SAE 4M 45 ELBOW, JIC 4 Male x SAE 4 Male 456802-04-04,

www.surpluscenter.com

Allstar Performance ALL46400-9: Braided Steel Line #4 Line - JEGS High Performance

Buy Allstar Performance ALL46400-9 at JEGS: Allstar Performance Braided Steel Line #4 Line. Guaranteed lowest price!

www.jegs.com

proper driveshaft indexing has the yokes on each end of the shaft inline with each other. If someone pulled the slip yoke apart and wasn’t paying attention they could mis-align them. You also want to get under there and check the shafts for excessive looseness in the slip yoke splines. There is a hinging test that uses a magnetic base to connect a dial indicator to one side to measure the movement on the other side. it is a small spec, but basically if you can feel/see movement in the slip yoke it is probably too much...

these things have real high driveshaft angles and because of the axle gearing really high driveshaft RPM. The driveshafts need to be in good shape or they will provide vibrations that will destroy that oil line, alternator mounts or shake other parts loose like the air compressor, or crack the timing case. There is a support bracket you need to look for on the rear end of the air compressor where the power steering hydraulic pump is attached. It connects from the lower hydraulic pump mount screw in to the side of the engine block And helps to support all the overhung compressor and PS pump weight bolted to the aluminum timing case...

you need air to release the park brakes and what’s in the tanks will eventually leak away. If you have to flat tow with a truck that does not have rear air gladhands, you can cage the rear parking brakes. There should be “T” bolts in holders on each rear brake can that can be inserted in the end of the can to mechanically compress the park springs to release the park brakes if the truck has no air... The procedure to do it is in the manual and you can probably find a brake caging video on Youtube probably should look to insure the caging bolts are in their holders when you are inspecting the truck...

Thank you Ronmar. All noted for inspection.

 

[Third From Texas]

Come on, man. You've been given the answer, at least go look at your truck or look it up in the manual. Yes, there is a hole on the side of the cans, where the bolts stow. No, it's not the hole on the end of the can, where you actually cage the brakes.

As I said, I've been thru the manual countless times. I have both hard copy and electronic. Never once have I seen it until Ronmar posted that image.

Thanks

 

[Awesomeness]

As I said, I've been thru the manual countless times. I have both hard copy and electronic. Never once have I seen it until Ronmar posted that image.

Thanks

There is an index in the back, and a PDF search function. Just type "caging". Or when I can't find instructions easily, you can always go look in the -24P parts manual, where you can easily look up the pictures by the part of the truck it's on... I think that's what Ronmar did.

 

[DARKOP]

Well, I called this morning to arrange the inspection and test drive and it was sold. A guy got it for $15,000 with a 5kw generator and (2) M1082 trailers. I knew I should have turned around and gone home and got my checkbook! If you snooze you loose in this game!

I do want to thank everyone for their input, I learned a lot in a very short time. These don't pop up very often in that kind of shape here in Alaska but I'll keep my eyes peeled for another unicorn!

 

[Mullaney]

As I said, I've been thru the manual countless times. I have both hard copy and electronic. Never once have I seen it until Ronmar posted that image.

Thanks

.

Third From Texas ,

It is interesting. Not sure why in the world a Caging bolt would be different, but the ones on my M1088 are about 3/8 of an inch shorter than what I have carried in my toolbox for years. I had always assumed (ASSuMEd) they were all the same. Maybe mine are really old and making them shorter cost less money these days...

Civilian cans have the holders on the side too.
Nothing special done by the military.

Just be sure - when you aren't in a crunch and need them - to remove them from the holder and maybe wire brush them, spray some sort of rust inhibitor on them, then put them back in the holder.

Nothing much worse that road salt eating the aluminum and steel and all you have is a chunk of metal that won't work.

Carrying spares is good too

 

[Godspeed131]

Sorry to hear about missing out, sounds like my typical fortune. Just be patient you’ll find one when the time is right. Look at it this way, now you have time to really familiarize yourself with the ins and outs of the trucks and research know problems to be prepared for when you do get your truck in the future.

Also for the caging bolt topic, I found this a little while back. I don’t know if it’s posted anywhere or not already, so sorry if it is.

 

[Third From Texas]

Also for the caging bolt topic, I found this a little while back. I don’t know if it’s posted anywhere or not already, so sorry if it is.

Thanks!

 

[Celticlady]

I'm a new owner. 1 1/2 years.
Can you be more specific to these items.

I didn't know about the fatigue cracks

Heard about or read somewhere about this oil line. but it got lost in the TMI of a new owner. I didn't make a note how to find it again

Shaft (drive shaft?) alignment.

Thanks


What to look for when inspecting:

• Inspect the engine block in front of the compressor for common fatigue cracks
• Check for the "oil line of death" as it's been referred to, if its been replaced that's a very good post-military maintenance sign
• Check the shafts for play, fresh grease, and clocking of the shaft. If it's they're not aligned right there is a potential for damage if not already occurred

 

[Celticlady]

This truck is 24 volts and there are 4 batteries that need charging up before you try to start it. Avoid “jumping it off” at all costs, that is how electronics get fried on these.


Unsure as to your meaning to " Jumping it off".

It has a NATO plug. Is that not what its used for?

I charge my batteries using the NATO plug.

Thanks

 

[Celticlady]

I'm a new owner. 1 1/2 years.
Can you be more specific to these items.

I didn't know about the fatigue cracks

Heard about or read somewhere about this oil line. but it got lost in the TMI of a new owner. I didn't make a note how to find it again

Shaft (drive shaft?) alignment.

Thanks


What to look for when inspecting:

• Inspect the engine block in front of the compressor for common fatigue cracks
• Check for the "oil line of death" as it's been referred to, if its been replaced that's a very good post-military maintenance sign
• Check the shafts for play, fresh grease, and clocking of the shaft. If it's they're not aligned right there is a potential for damage if not already occurred

Replying to my own post. I should have paged down further to get the answers.

Thanks Ron for your clear information.

 

[Awesomeness]

I'm a new owner. 1 1/2 years.
Can you be more specific to these items.

I didn't know about the fatigue cracks

Heard about or read somewhere about this oil line. but it got lost in the TMI of a new owner. I didn't make a note how to find it again

Shaft (drive shaft?) alignment.

Thanks


What to look for when inspecting:

• Inspect the engine block in front of the compressor for common fatigue cracks
• Check for the "oil line of death" as it's been referred to, if its been replaced that's a very good post-military maintenance sign
• Check the shafts for play, fresh grease, and clocking of the shaft. If it's they're not aligned right there is a potential for damage if not already occurred

There are posts about most of these things all the time. You could search, or even just probably look through the most recent couple pages (same goes for your electrical panel post, which was just talked about in the past week or two).

There is a bracket/brace on the back of the compressor. If it comes loose, the engine vibrations on the unsupported cantilevered compressor breaks stuff. It will crack the aluminum front housing of the engine, and damage the steel tube oil line that runs from the driver's side of the block to the compressor/governor. If the oil line fails, you pump out all your oil and kill the engine, fairly quickly.

Personally, I think the "oil line of death" is overhyped. Yes, it can happen, and has. It's not very common, especially if the compressor bracket is in place and tight, but can be catastrophic if it does. The practice of replacing it with a "similar sized" flexible line probably isn't very smart, since flexible lines are more restrictive, so if you're going to do that you should spend the extra money to oversize the line. Flexible lines have their own problems though, too, so it's not a slam dunk.

 

[Celticlady]

There are posts about most of these things all the time. You could search, or even just probably look through the most recent couple pages (same goes for your electrical panel post, which was just talked about in the past week or two).

There is a bracket/brace on the back of the compressor. If it comes loose, the engine vibrations on the unsupported cantilevered compressor breaks stuff. It will crack the aluminum front housing of the engine, and damage the steel tube oil line that runs from the driver's side of the block to the compressor/governor. If the oil line fails, you pump out all your oil and kill the engine, fairly quickly.

Personally, I think the "oil line of death" is overhyped. Yes, it can happen, and has. It's not very common, especially if the compressor bracket is in place and tight, but can be catastrophic if it does. The practice of replacing it with a "similar sized" flexible line probably isn't very smart, since flexible lines are more restrictive, so if you're going to do that you should spend the extra money to oversize the line. Flexible lines have their own problems though, too, so it's not a slam dunk.

Yes I should get better acquainted with the SS webpage. I find SS formatting is a bit strange. It is very difficult on my Iphone. There is no SS app listed in the app store. I need to remember to just go to my computer (if possible). I try to remember that anytime I reply it always goes to the end of the tread. Not to the person I am replying to. One question. How do I a cancel a reply? I can't seem to figure that out on either my puter or phone.

I can spend the entire day on SS.


Thankyou for your insight of this line issue. There are always a "On the other hand...." to every story.

 

[Bigfan]

There is a metallic oil line between the drivers side of the cylinder head and the back side of the governor. It is looped out like a diving board and it can oscillate, work-harden and break if the truck has a lot of vibration. Most people have been replacing it with a braided -4 hose with -4 JIC connectors and a couple of -4JIC to -4SAE adapters. some use off the shelf teflon brake lines or have a hydraulic hose made, just be sure to watch the bend radius of whatever hose you use. Here are the parts I chose. The 9” line allows me to just maintain the minimum 2” bend radius for the -4 braided line.

JIC Male to SAE Male Swivel-Right Angle Extra Long | JIC to SAE O-ring | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

JIC Male to SAE Male Swivel-Right Angle Extra Long,JIC to SAE O-ring,Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings,Hydraulics, JIC 10 Male x SAE 10 Male 90 Degree

www.surpluscenter.com

JIC 4 Male x SAE 4 Male 45 Degree Elbow 6802-04-04 Adapter | JIC Male to SAE Male - 45 Degree | JIC to SAE O-ring | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

JIC 4 Male x SAE 4 Male 45 Degree Elbow 6802-04-04 Adapter, JIC Male to SAE Male - 45 Degree, JIC 4M TO SAE 4M 45 ELBOW, JIC 4 Male x SAE 4 Male 456802-04-04,

www.surpluscenter.com

Allstar Performance ALL46400-9: Braided Steel Line #4 Line - JEGS High Performance

Buy Allstar Performance ALL46400-9 at JEGS: Allstar Performance Braided Steel Line #4 Line. Guaranteed lowest price!

www.jegs.com

proper driveshaft indexing has the yokes on each end of the shaft inline with each other. If someone pulled the slip yoke apart and wasn’t paying attention they could mis-align them. You also want to get under there and check the shafts for excessive looseness in the slip yoke splines. There is a hinging test that uses a magnetic base to connect a dial indicator to one side to measure the movement on the other side. it is a small spec, but basically if you can feel/see movement in the slip yoke it is probably too much...

these things have real high driveshaft angles and because of the axle gearing really high driveshaft RPM. The driveshafts need to be in good shape or they will provide vibrations that will destroy that oil line, alternator mounts or shake other parts loose like the air compressor, or crack the timing case. There is a support bracket you need to look for on the rear end of the air compressor where the power steering hydraulic pump is attached. It connects from the lower hydraulic pump mount screw in to the side of the engine block And helps to support all the overhung compressor and PS pump weight bolted to the aluminum timing case...

you need air to release the park brakes and what’s in the tanks will eventually leak away. If you have to flat tow with a truck that does not have rear air gladhands, you can cage the rear parking brakes. There should be “T” bolts in holders on each rear brake can that can be inserted in the end of the can to mechanically compress the park springs to release the park brakes if the truck has no air... The procedure to do it is in the manual and you can probably find a brake caging video on Youtube probably should look to insure the caging bolts are in their holders when you are inspecting the truck...

anyone have a model number for rear drive shaft, my lmtv is getting delivered next week and its missing the rear shaft. need to order one

 

[Third From Texas]

anyone have a model number for rear drive shaft, my lmtv is getting delivered next week and its missing the rear shaft. need to order one

Are you certain? A lot of times it's tossed into the bed or behind the seats.

 

[Bigfan]

Are you certain? A lot of times it's tossed into the bed or behind the seats.

pretty sure its not there, its a flat bed, and nothing on bed. inside is spotless as well.