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M923 back together!

Mullaney

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Any pointers on fixing this rust would be great.
.
Wow. So, I almost wonder if you would do better finding a cab in better condition than yours. The hard part about fixing rust will be finding good solid metal to attach your replacement metal to. Spot welding it in place. There are a lot of discussions about rust in the "bodywork" forum. Spot welding is a skill that you have or you will learn as you go...

I know that Glidden makes a rust "cleaner-upper" that will stop whatever is happening. I almost think a "slag chipper" (air powered needle scaler) would help to chew up the metal that is rusted to the point of being replaced. Wish there was a magic wand we could wave over rust that would replace the bad metal.
 

charlesmann

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You might try evaporust. Plug the factory holes, build a dam with maybe modeling clay, then lay a cover over it the evaporust to keep its juices in and O2 and additional moisture out. It’ll clean the metal and allow you a peek into the severity of the corrosion and pitting and go from there on your plans of repair.
 

Hamrick907

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Wasilla, Alaska
You might try evaporust. Plug the factory holes, build a dam with maybe modeling clay, then lay a cover over it the evaporust to keep its juices in and O2 and additional moisture out. It’ll clean the metal and allow you a peek into the severity of the corrosion and pitting and go from there on your plans of repair.
Good idea didn't think about that
 

Bill Nutting

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I had a truck that was that way, I cut all the floor out and replaced it. I bit of work and welding, but you end up with a good floor.View attachment 838304View attachment 838305View attachment 838306he
This is how you fix a rusty floor. I would prime The new steel with an epoxy primer ( DP90 is the best). I would then use a wire brush to knock off any loose stuff on the remaining areas with surface rust and prime these areas with POR15 or a product called Chassis Saver. Then give it a few coats of color or Rino Liner. A repair done this way should last for years.
 

Hamrick907

Member
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Location
Wasilla, Alaska
This is how you fix a rusty floor. I would prime The new steel with an epoxy primer ( DP90 is the best). I would then use a wire brush to knock off any loose stuff on the remaining areas with surface rust and prime these areas with POR15 or a product called Chassis Saver. Then give it a few coats of color or Rino Liner. A repair done this way should last for years.
I got a deal on POR15 the other day
thanks
 

M35A2-AZ

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Tonopah, AZ
This is how you fix a rusty floor. I would prime The new steel with an epoxy primer ( DP90 is the best). I would then use a wire brush to knock off any loose stuff on the remaining areas with surface rust and prime these areas with POR15 or a product called Chassis Saver. Then give it a few coats of color or Rino Liner. A repair done this way should last for years.
I also used POR15 on the floor after welding.
 

Bill Nutting

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Chesterfield, Mi.
I also used POR15 on the floor after welding.
M35A2-AZ, you did an outstanding job replacing that floor. POR15 is a great rust stopper. It does require a top coat. I’m told it can’t hold up to UV light and will turn chalky. I know it isn’t restoration correct but I like using Rino Liner as a top coat on floors. It really holds up. I know a guy that painted OD over the Rino Liner in the bed of his M37. I like the look of it but it would reduce points if it were being judged.
 

M35A2-AZ

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Tonopah, AZ
M35A2-AZ, you did an outstanding job replacing that floor. POR15 is a great rust stopper. It does require a top coat. I’m told it can’t hold up to UV light and will turn chalky. I know it isn’t restoration correct but I like using Rino Liner as a top coat on floors. It really holds up. I know a guy that painted OD over the Rino Liner in the bed of his M37. I like the look of it but it would reduce points if it were being judged.
Bill, Thanks, I also used bed liner in my M35's I have done and I like it.
 
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