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CUCV Master Keyed?

Z

Zen Diesel

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So I ordered a set (2) locks for my truck. The driver side cylinder has seen better days and after a generous puff of graphite did nothing to help smooth things out I decided it was best to just go ahead and change the cylinders out since their is another CUCV in the area and I don't want to take a chance with someone doing something stupid.

I tried the new locks out and they are smooth as butter, Just for S&G I put my old CUCV key in the new locks and they spin the cylinders as well. I am aware of dealership master keys for door locks so I am concerned that if I send this lock set back to LMC they are just going to send me another set of cylinders that work with this key as well. Definetly a PITA because these lock cylinders were back ordered. I did check the bitting on the keys and they are nothing alike.

I'm trying to avoid spending a small fortune to get the locksmith to look at them so I figured I would ask if anyone else had an issue like this.
 
sneekyeye

sneekyeye

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You can get a set of door lock cylinder from an Advance Auto for about 20 bucks. I did that locally and there was one in stock. I don't know how far you are from the Advance Auto at 8445 A-ANNAPOLIS ROAD, but they are showing to have a set of door lock cylinders in stock.
 
C

cucvmule

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I have had good luck with LMC in the past on other parts, never tried locksets as they are still available at most auto parts stores.

On civilian trucks it takes two different types of keys to use both doors and starting ignition on steering column. On the CUCV the original key works both doors and ignition, and the same key works on all 50,000 CUCV trucks. That is why the trucks used to be steering chained when not in service.

So what I think that I am hearing is the new set is a CUCV set, and the original CUCV key works?

Am I missing something?
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

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Z

Zen Diesel

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cucvmule said:
I have had good luck with LMC in the past on other parts, never tried locksets as they are still available at most auto parts stores.

On civilian trucks it takes two different types of keys to use both doors and starting ignition on steering column. On the CUCV the original key works both doors and ignition, and the same key works on all 50,000 CUCV trucks. That is why the trucks used to be steering chained when not in service.

So what I think that I am hearing is the new set is a CUCV set, and the original CUCV key works?

Am I missing something?
Click to expand...
Ok sorry let me clarify. Of the 2 kinds of lock cylinders I could purchase one would be a square key like on the civilian chevy trucks and the other was a round key so a person can use the ignition key for the door key. I purchased a round key / cylinder set for a civilian chevy. I tested both of the new keys in both new lock cylinders and they worked very smooth. I then tried my old CUCV key (the same key as every other CUCV) and it also turned the new cylinders (that I have not installed yet).

I am in the process of re keying my doors and eventually the ignition because anyone who knows about these trucks will know that. Right now the old girl is up on jackstands getting a spa treatment for rust before she gets a coat of cosmoline on the underside. So I'm not worried about it. I could chain the steering wheel or do a brake pedal lockout but I figured since my drivers side door lock is at the end of it's servicable life. I would just go ahead and re-key anyways.

So I was told the reason Chevy had 2 keys for the civvy trucks was because of the bitting (the cuts that correspond to the pin arrangement in the cylinder) that only so many key combinations could be had so the door and ignition were keyed differently to reduce the possibility of someone taking a legitimate single key and driving off with your vehicle.

I know all the CUCV trucks are keyed alike because military. What I am wondering is if anyone has tried a CUCV key on other civilian locks to see if its some kind of master key for these door locks. Master keying is something dealerships do so that they can maintain a smaller ring of keys when moving vehicles around on a lot. I would not put it past Chevy to do that since these trucks were never intended for the civilian market. Given the limited bitting possibilities I'm wondering if its worthwhile to buy another set of door locks if they are going to have the same problem as the set I purchased from LMC (It was $14.95 + shipping for the set and part of a larger sheet metal order). This is more of an issue since the door key and ignition are the same. I was going to re-key the ignition but I'm not going to waste the effort if its masterkeyed. What I would pay a locksmith to fix that its just cheaper to put in a kill switch sequence and throw an old brake pedal lockout on as visual deterrent.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

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I worked at several GM dealers from the mid 70's thru late 80's and every vehicle that came had a different set of keys. I was in new car/truck check-in and we recorded every vehicle on a hand written check in sheet and noted the key codes for each vehicle. We had a Curtiss key machine and it would punch the key code plugs out of the chrome brass keys. The little plugs were retained with the file of each vehicle and a set were sent with the new owner. It was a task to mark and file each set of keys. We would go out each day and place the keys in every car on the lot and each evening we would go out and retrieve the keys again. Later on lock boxes were put on the drivers door window and the keys for each vehicle were locked inside. The GM B key used on the CUCV's was the same type of key used on Police, taxi and all Fleet vehicles. It was always referred to as the GM common key. Ford & Chrysler Corporation Police, taxi and fleet vehicles also had a single common key design. It was always easier to maintain the fleet with 1 key for each vehicle. Unlike the CUCV each fleet vehicle had a separate unique key code. I had seen police departments get 2-3 new cars that were keyed alike but not common practice. I never recall a master key for vehicles. I do recall a lot of lost and missing keys and we had a Curtiss key cutter and could cut new keys from the codes in a few minutes. Unlike vehicles today that replacement keys can cost upwards to several hundred dollars. I still have keys in all my vehicles. My Son's car does not and he can start it from his phone and set controls from the phone. Cool stuff in this weather. Take Care I am just sharing the old days of yore.
 
dstang97

dstang97

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Zen Diesel said:
Ok sorry let me clarify. Of the 2 kinds of lock cylinders I could purchase one would be a square key like on the civilian chevy trucks and the other was a round key so a person can use the ignition key for the door key. I purchased a round key / cylinder set for a civilian chevy. I tested both of the new keys in both new lock cylinders and they worked very smooth. I then tried my old CUCV key (the same key as every other CUCV) and it also turned the new cylinders (that I have not installed yet).

I am in the process of re keying my doors and eventually the ignition because anyone who knows about these trucks will know that. Right now the old girl is up on jackstands getting a spa treatment for rust before she gets a coat of cosmoline on the underside. So I'm not worried about it. I could chain the steering wheel or do a brake pedal lockout but I figured since my drivers side door lock is at the end of it's servicable life. I would just go ahead and re-key anyways.

So I was told the reason Chevy had 2 keys for the civvy trucks was because of the bitting (the cuts that correspond to the pin arrangement in the cylinder) that only so many key combinations could be had so the door and ignition were keyed differently to reduce the possibility of someone taking a legitimate single key and driving off with your vehicle.

I know all the CUCV trucks are keyed alike because military. What I am wondering is if anyone has tried a CUCV key on other civilian locks to see if its some kind of master key for these door locks. Master keying is something dealerships do so that they can maintain a smaller ring of keys when moving vehicles around on a lot. I would not put it past Chevy to do that since these trucks were never intended for the civilian market. Given the limited bitting possibilities I'm wondering if its worthwhile to buy another set of door locks if they are going to have the same problem as the set I purchased from LMC (It was $14.95 + shipping for the set and part of a larger sheet metal order). This is more of an issue since the door key and ignition are the same. I was going to re-key the ignition but I'm not going to waste the effort if its masterkeyed. What I would pay a locksmith to fix that its just cheaper to put in a kill switch sequence and throw an old brake pedal lockout on as visual deterrent.
Click to expand...
ill buy your Oem cucv lock cylinders
 
Z

Zen Diesel

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cucvrus said:
I worked at several GM dealers from the mid 70's thru late 80's and every vehicle that came had a different set of keys. I was in new car/truck check-in and we recorded every vehicle on a hand written check in sheet and noted the key codes for each vehicle. We had a Curtiss key machine and it would punch the key code plugs out of the chrome brass keys. The little plugs were retained with the file of each vehicle and a set were sent with the new owner. It was a task to mark and file each set of keys. We would go out each day and place the keys in every car on the lot and each evening we would go out and retrieve the keys again. Later on lock boxes were put on the drivers door window and the keys for each vehicle were locked inside. The GM B key used on the CUCV's was the same type of key used on Police, taxi and all Fleet vehicles. It was always referred to as the GM common key. Ford & Chrysler Corporation Police, taxi and fleet vehicles also had a single common key design. It was always easier to maintain the fleet with 1 key for each vehicle. Unlike the CUCV each fleet vehicle had a separate unique key code. I had seen police departments get 2-3 new cars that were keyed alike but not common practice. I never recall a master key for vehicles. I do recall a lot of lost and missing keys and we had a Curtiss key cutter and could cut new keys from the codes in a few minutes. Unlike vehicles today that replacement keys can cost upwards to several hundred dollars. I still have keys in all my vehicles. My Son's car does not and he can start it from his phone and set controls from the phone. Cool stuff in this weather. Take Care I am just sharing the old days of yore.
Click to expand...
Interesting well I gotta say I’ve been told a lot of stories about GM’s keying system and thats all new info to me & different than what I’ve been told before. Thanks for the info.
I guess Ill just kill switch it then. Thanks!
 
M813rc

M813rc

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Over time I have replaced the ignition cylinders on all three of my CUCVs (two M1009s and an M1028A2).
The CUCV standard key will not turn any of the new lock cylinders I have.

All three locks came from O'Reilly Auto Parts simply because there was a store a couple of miles from where i used to live. They usually have them in stock, and they were less than $20.

Most of the parts for CUCVs are available at the local parts house if you ask for it to fit a 1984 K30.
Ask for 1984 regardless of what year your own CUCV was actually built (all mine are 1986 builds).

Cheers
 
G

Gamma Goat Driver

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cucvrus said:
The key code for the U.S. CUCV is 73Y2
If you go to a lock smith they will use the B blank GM key to cut you a fresh key from the code. The key code for the U.S. CUCV is 73Y2
I hope that helps.
Find Vintage GM B Key Blank, General Motors, Chevy, Chevrolet in Cloverdale, California, US, for US $3.00
Round head is as original but the rectangular head works the same. Most fleet, taxi, police of the same vintage used the one hey system.
Click to expand...
Fantastic. Thank you. Do you also have the code for the door locks or is that the same?
 
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