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No sir I don't. No keyed switch either.
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Need help understanding the HMMWV cooling circuit
- Thread starter Andyrv6av8r
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Good deal... Just thought it might be worth mentioning.
Several recent purchases where sans thermo.
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So I installed a new fan clutch hoping to fix my issue. In the video I have a toggle switch in place of the temperature switch. You can see what it does in the disengaged position. I still don't know what to make of my issue.
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Would have been nice to have a narration to the video as I didn't see what your trying to demonstrate. Seeing fan going round and round. Looking for clutch movement and if you were flipping the switch ON / OFF didn't catch it. Maybe my bad eyesight.
Now I can't hear after the video, CAMO
Now I can't hear after the video, CAMO
Glider
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What is going on with the line going into the PS pump? What exactly is the cooling system doing wrong
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That's why I didn't try to narrate anything going on. Way too loud. I wanted everyone to hear the engine slow down and speed up. Fan is steady in the engaged position but when moving rearward to unlock, it sounds like it freewheels then engages again when fully rearward. Sometimes it sounds like it has marbles in it when disengaging.
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Read my posts starting from the beginning and you'll see my problem. Line going to ps pump is bleed line off of the fan clutch line.
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you don’t need a toggle switch, just unplug the 2 pin connector to engage and disengage at the TDM.- YouTube
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So I installed a new fan clutch hoping to fix my issue. In the video I have a toggle switch in place of the temperature switch. You can see what it does in the disengaged position. I still don't know what to make of my issue.
I don’t see or hear anything out of the ordinary.
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I read your OP…you melted your TDM because your Cadillac valve solenoid was bad, seen it, done that.
There are a lot of Chinese knock off thermostatic switches on the market, even the distributors are getting screwed from suppliers who state it’s NOS, the Chicomm crap opens at 190, military OEM is 220.
i but most everything from 3 sources in my shop, Kascar, HPG or Mac…all at one time or another have sent me Chicomm by accident. I can spot that junk as soon as it arrives.
There are a lot of Chinese knock off thermostatic switches on the market, even the distributors are getting screwed from suppliers who state it’s NOS, the Chicomm crap opens at 190, military OEM is 220.
i but most everything from 3 sources in my shop, Kascar, HPG or Mac…all at one time or another have sent me Chicomm by accident. I can spot that junk as soon as it arrives.
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50 post later and I thought one had this fixed. I get the frustration..DOH.
You should be on this end of the thread. ALL the data, narration, documentation, parts changed ( maybe a picture, part number or vendor) and video was nice, voice over better. Walk us thru the shit show just like a real movie. Remember PAN slow. I saw the PS pump cover missing and thought what's this and wanted to see what was going on with the hoses and wires... and then THE END. A real cliff hanger.
But if your putting crap parts in.... getting crap responses as you would....This is going to lead to head scratching and the spoken word "DOH"
It's been stated. (in a correct working system)
No 24 volt power... FAN is ON.
Follow the 24 volt flow>24 volts in > Thermostatic switch > TDM > Solenoid > here's the tricky part > PS pressure... to fan. it is OFF
No pressure to fan...FAN is ON.
Key to proper cycling (all other variables understood) is the thermostatic switch temperature set points.
Don't overthink it. No need to re-engineer it. If you follow thru 1 & 2 & 3 BAM... DONE.
And not throwing wrenches at a HumV, CAMO
GOOD LUCK
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What difference does a keyed switch make?
So what was the issue and solution. I read the entire thread and there is no ending?!