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803a would not shut off

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49
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Location
Kenner Louisiana
So we’ve been running the generator 7 days now. I shut it down on Wednesday. I’m at work and power came back on. My wife attempted to shut down generator and nothing would work. Neighbor came over and pulled this plunger out the solenoid. What’s my fix. I’ll be home in the morning to take a look at it. This is the pictures she sent me. Thanks


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Denvercaitland

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Much more knowledgeable people than me on this forum, but if it's of help. The last photo is the mechanism to adjust rpm ( which in turn adjust hertz) and would not have a role on set not shutting down. 2nd picture is fuel solenoid which when electricly powered move the fuel rail which allow fuel to enter injectors pump. By removing the plunger it allowed the fuel Rail to return to normally closed position cutting fuel off/ shutting engine down.
 

Light in the Dark

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In the future the part that was 'pulled out' only needed to be forced left, to manually shut the metering pumps as Denvercaitland called out. OR... simply unplug the connector out of the back of it, which will kill the power to it, allowing the fuel rack to pull closed to its resting position. It is possible that depending on the condition of the metering pumps and the fuel rack, that a little manual assistance might still be required to close the fuel off... but that's the surefire way of making a set stop.

Now as to the solenoid... you may be able to reassemble this (as its an internal magnet assembly, or you may not. You will need to mess around and see if it will go back together). SA-3865 is the part number for this, should it need to be replaced. The OEM Woodward unit is over $200. There are Chicom imports for under $100. Do not misplace the items taken out... the bracket and nut assembly isn't available on the open market.

In an emergency situation, if you can block off the air intake you can stop one of these in their tracks too.
 
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Denvercaitland

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1st pick is fuel solenoid in off position ( no power from switch). 2nd pick is solenoid activated - 803 running.

Pick 3 solenoid is normally off in all position until you move switch to START, on startup solenoid will remain activated on PRIME RUN, PRIME RUN AUX FUEL and will only deactivate when you move switch to OFF.

As light in the dark described I had some luck reassembling the solenoid.

Best wat to test solenoid is to take + lead off starter. This way you can move the start switch and clearly hear when solenoid activate/deactivate
 

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Guyfang

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1st pick is fuel solenoid in off position ( no power from switch). 2nd pick is solenoid activated - 803 running.

Pick 3 solenoid is normally off in all position until you move switch to START, on startup solenoid will remain activated on PRIME RUN, PRIME RUN AUX FUEL and will only deactivate when you move switch to OFF.

As light in the dark described I had some luck reassembling the solenoid.

Best wat to test solenoid is to take + lead off starter. This way you can move the start switch and clearly hear when solenoid activate/deactivate
The best was to test L5 is to pull the plug, and apply a wire providing 24 VDC- to the black wire, 24VD+ to the white wire, (Pull) and then 24VDC+ to the red wire, (hold). Then as its still mounted on the engine, it will not fly apart, and you can SEE what it is doing.
 

Ray70

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I don't think the OP was clear or might not even know what exactly the neighbor did to remove the solenoid plunger, but much like M32825 I have also seen these gens where the knob has vibrated loose from the shutoff lever, allowing the solenoid's plunger, spring and the linkage to fly out and end up lying in the bottom of the machine.
This could be as simple as reinserting the plunger pieces and screwing the knob back in.
Guess we won't know until he gets home and is able to report back as to exactly what is happening.
 
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