Wait light troubleshooting

[jkcondrey]

At this point, appreciate what help was given. Lock it up.

 

[86humv]

This is somewhat common on the start box;
Burnt parts.....and water damage

 

[Action]

Back on topic. I reread post #1. It stated only getting 6 volts on wire 27 to the lamp. Where was the ground lead from your multimeter during that test? 27 goes to gauges.
571 is a ground signal from the PCB. You disconnected 571 from the lamp and connected to good ground. The lamp came on and wouldn’t go out. Was it lit bright? If it only has 6 volts from the gauges.
Maybe getting 24 volts to the gauges would help get the wait light going. Do the gauges and dash lights work fine?

 

[jkcondrey]

Start box was bad. Swapped in loaner, light worked correctly and plugs working fine.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Start box was bad. Swapped in loaner, light worked correctly and plugs working fine.

64 post later... So what was the problem? And they call it a "Smart Box" LOL.

The END, CAMO.

 

[jkcondrey]

64 post later... So what was the problem? And they call it a "Smart Box" LOL.

The END, CAMO.

Well, as noted the ground was not returning through the box to initiate the wait light coming on and plug activation. I have looked over the bad box but really don't see any devious spots of corrosion or burns. Maybe one of those little diodes or a bad solder joint? No answer there. I think I will find an electronics guy local to run through it and see if it can be salvaged.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I don’t think you ever told us what EESS box you have….AFAIC, unless it’s a KDS or Narton S3, replace it.

 

[jkcondrey]

Yeah it was posted back a ways. Nartron 12469158-1, yellow label. I went ahead and bought the loaner to use until I order a later model box. In meantime I’m gonna try one of the local guys to rebuild this one.