M1009 suppressor

[LAM Problems]

Hello, I'm a french owner of a K30 CUCV, recently imported from US.
After discharging the truck from the container, the carrier tried to start because batteries off during the transportation. I think he maid a mistake. I changed 2X batteries, 2Xalternators and the starter, the truck is still discharging. In France, car electricials are not used to work on 24V. They suggested to replace the suppressor with a kind of resistor, but it still ruins my batteries, and the part is so hot that we can't touch it.
I join you a picture, showing the part I need, called SUPPRESSOR. But impossible to find without commercial reference or brand.
Did someone had this problem, and can I ask you for help?
Thanks for your time!
Greg.

 

[cucvrus]

That part is NOT needed. I would eliminate it. It must have been for radio equipment. Good Luck.

 

[jcollings]

When you say it's not charging is that based on a Volt meter on batteries or by lights on dashboard

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[MarcusOReallyus]

If they tried to jump start it, it's likely that they fried a few fusible links, along with your alternators. Those will have to be replaced. In the "Helpful Threads" sticky (at the top of the CUCV forum) there are a few links to a lot of info on the fusible links. I suggest you start there.

I'll echo what CUCVRus said, that 'suppressor' is just for radio noise. It''s actually a capacitor, which are commonly used to eliminate radio noise.

It is not needed, and it has nothing to do with your problem. It is best to simply remove it and never give it another thought.

 

[LAM Problems]

When you say it's not charging is that based on a Volt meter on batteries or by lights on dashboard

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First on the Volt meter, but also when you stop the car, the following day it doesn't start. And one battery is empty.

 

[jcollings]

1st I would charge the batteries all the way up. leave them disconnected. then connect them in the morning with a volt meter start to truck run out check the voltages each battery 12 V and 24 V across that connection and see what you got. if there's nothing (no charging)there, run the rpms up a little bit and see if it comes up. if there's lights burned out on dash for gen 1 and or 2 - that could be part of that scenario.
If you're not getting the voltage at the batteries then check each alternator to see if it's getting out of the alternator and maybe not to the batteries etc

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[MarcusOReallyus]

Until you have checked your fusible links, you are just chasing your tail. Start with your fusible links. Keep the batteries disconnected until you have checked them, or you might fry another alternator. You may have already done so.

"Fusible links 101" in the Helpful Threads sticky.

 

[jcollings]

I Was typing had sent my discussion before I set seen Marcus o'reilly's thread. I concur with what he said

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[cucvrus]

Next question will be "What are Fusible Links" They are easily replaced and not as easy to find and diagnose. I use a test light to check them. They can melt out in the center and still appear good. I hope that helps. My diagnosis from a far is difficult and wiring issues are my weakest link. It always helps to have a 2nd operational CUCV near by to double and triple check things. If the wiring harness is still stock it is best kept that way. It helps keep the manuals useful and the vehicle easier to diagnose and repair. No hacking away at the harness. It lasted this long as it is and only needs repaired. Not redesigned. Remember these are standard production vehicles with a few special items added for the US Government. The life expectancy of vehicles was about 10 years at the time they were built. They have outlived that 3+ fold at this point. Good Luck. It is fairly easy and straight forward when done right the first time.

 

[MAZ537]

Some pictures from your batteries and the wiring will be good...

 

[WWRD99]

Next question will be "What are Fusible Links" They are easily replaced and not as easy to find and diagnose. I use a test light to check them. They can melt out in the center and still appear good. I hope that helps. My diagnosis from a far is difficult and wiring issues are my weakest link. It always helps to have a 2nd operational CUCV near by to double and triple check things. If the wiring harness is still stock it is best kept that way. It helps keep the manuals useful and the vehicle easier to diagnose and repair. No hacking away at the harness. It lasted this long as it is and only needs repaired. Not redesigned. Remember these are standard production vehicles with a few special items added for the US Government. The life expectancy of vehicles was about 10 years at the time they were built. They have outlived that 3+ fold at this point. Good Luck. It is fairly easy and straight forward when done right the first time.

ut
My test for fusible links....pull...then pull harder!! I can't count how many times they test ok since they touch a little bit and get the light to work but won't flow enough current...dang things....I bet that's where the smoke went since it won't charge...alts not getting stator power...I've never done it but what happens when one jumps the 24 volt system with 12 volts...like just puts the cables on one battery...I'd assume something bad to whatever is jumping it as well if it starts.

 

[cucvrus]

Most times I just jump the front battery on a CUCV with a standard 12 volt vehicle. Think about it. If you leave the headlamps on 12 volt, 99.9% of the vehicle runs off the front battery during normal operations. That one starts most vehicle with a jumper cable to 12 volts. Unless you have a real dead one then the slave cables are needed and maybe a 12 volt also. Good Luck.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

My test for fusible links....pull...then pull harder!! I can't count how many times they test ok since they touch a little bit and get the light to work but won't flow enough current...dang things...

That's one of the many reasons I don't like them. They are a relic of the past. Fuses are far superior in every way except one - cost to the vehicle builder.

That is the only reason they still exist.

 

[cucvrus]

I agree but a fuse is POP and it's gone the connection is broken. The fusible link can take a bit more punishment. It can get weak but still hold till it is burnt completely thru. I have replaced a fusible link with a maxi fuse just on my own stuff. But fusible link wire is inexpensive and serves it purpose. It tells you something just isn't right without burning the entire harness down. Good Luck. But they are interchangeable with inline fuses. Just make sure the fuse holder has wire the correct size for the amperage the circuit it is going to serve.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I agree but a fuse is POP and it's gone the connection is broken.

That's what the fusible link is supposed to do, but they don't always, often leading to confusing symptoms.

I know which one I'd rather change by the side of the road on a rainy night!

 

[WWRD99]

That's what the fusible link is supposed to do, but they don't always, often leading to confusing symptoms.

I know which one I'd rather change by the side of the road on a rainy night!

the link has one advantage on the side of the road if it fails the pull test...can strip it back and reconnect it so it works again...a fuse needs a paperclip or hopefully a correct fuse replacement on hand...big thing though if there is a failure of a fuse something is not right and needs fixed and may blow again pretty quick.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Most grocery stores and even 7-11 carries spare fuses, and a kit of them fits in the glove box very easily. No stripping required!

Your move!

 

[WWRD99]

Most times I just jump the front battery on a CUCV with a standard 12 volt vehicle. Think about it. If you leave the headlamps on 12 volt, 99.9% of the vehicle runs off the front battery during normal operations. That one starts most vehicle with a jumper cable to 12 volts. Unless you have a real dead one then the slave cables are needed and maybe a 12 volt also. Good Luck.

I thought since the starter is 24 volt it would need that to get going but if it still works with 12 to get going that works too!! I need a slave cable!! I don't like jump starting unless I absolutely have to...I don't like to full field the charging system for as long as it would take to charge the huge batteries...I slow charge them for a few days...typically start at 6 amps then down to 2.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I thought since the starter is 24 volt it would need that to get going but if it still works with 12 to get going that works too!! I need a slave cable!!

No, it does need 24v. But Rick's point was that the rear battery is usually not discharged much. It's usually the front battery that gets discharged, because that is the one that supplies 12v to the vehicle. Leave a light on, and only the front is going down. The rear will be sitting there, fat, dumb, happy, and still fully charged.

So, if you can charge up the front one with a jump from a 12v vehicle, you are probably going to be able to start your truck.

The military slave cable is not going to help unless you have a NATO vehicle handy.

 

[WWRD99]

Most grocery stores and even 7-11 carries spare fuses, and a kit of them fits in the glove box very easily. No stripping required!

Your move!

TRUE!!! I know they won't carry the link for sure and be honest not many parts stores do either!! I like the 7 11...good stuff there...if you have the fuse and are close to the market problem but if not the link wins.