Seeking Advice on Replacing HH O-Rings in the Truck

[dmetalmiki]

The shut off lever should be just free enough to close, but it must not be loose.
So. tighten it a little until l it does not close as it should, then unscrew each screw a tad until it will close on it's own.
The lever itself should be installed at the seven o'clock position.
If your engine runs away, you should have a co2 fire extinguisher to hand, with the air cleaner vent cover off, and fire it into the intake.
No engine will run without oxygen.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Thanks Jeepsinker all good information there in those links.

It's to the point now where I think I have to pull the head just to try and fix where the #3 injection line goes in. Tried new lines, new crush ferrules. Tried lapping the tapered part inside the head. O-Ring idea sounds like it might be what I need.

Not sure what else to try. This is a very annoying leak that doesn't show up at an idle. Only when you are running on the road.

Hate to buy a whole head for a leak on one line only.

If you've tried all that and you still have a leak, it's safe to say that you have a hairline crack in the hydraulic head there, most likely in the threaded area. I've run across this a few times. Only leaks going down the road because the pressure and vibration is higher and faster.

 

[Strait]

I am having a no start issue with my deuce. I can’t seem to figure out how to post my own question so I am replying here hoping to get an answer. I rebuilt the hydraulic head because the button fell off and bow tie broke. I put it all back together and have a no start situation. Since the bow tie broke would something possibly be out of time in the fuel system. Not really sure how everything works together in there. Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

[NY Tom]

if you put it all back together right AND it ran before you took it apart check the in tank pump. While my truck sat during the time I did the HH O-Rings the electrical connector at the tank for the pump corroded and wasn't running the pump. Could not get the engine to start. With the low air buzzer on I didn't hear that the pump wasn't running. Didn't even think to check it. Cleaned the connection and with pump running to prime system started right up.

 

[Floridianson]

I am having a no start issue with my deuce. I can’t seem to figure out how to post my own question so I am replying here hoping to get an answer. I rebuilt the hydraulic head because the button fell off and bow tie broke. I put it all back together and have a no start situation. Since the bow tie broke would something possibly be out of time in the fuel system. Not really sure how everything works together in there. Thanks for any help you can offer.

Yes If the plunger guide was put in backwards it will throw off timing / correct stroke big time. I will look for the thread on the same thing that happened or get you pics of the correct way it should look when assembled.
OK could not find the thread but hope this helps. With the Head out rotate plunger drive till the red / scribe mark is in the correct position for removal / install to the IP. Then look at the plunger guide and you should just be able to see the stamped plunger guild and it should look like in the picture. you should be able to read / see the guild and it will say Alline Plunger with

 

[Floridianson]

NY Tom got a pm from the op and you guessed it just needed to get the system fully primed. That is much better than having to remove the head to check assembly.

 

[NY Tom]

Glad that worked out for him. Before I checked that I went thru all the trouble of verifying that I had put the head back in correctly. Checking the IP timing and all that too. I made the mistake of checking the hard stuff first. Thankfully the info was on this site for how to check it all but that was not the problem.

Thanks for posting that he got it fixed.

 

[GunInstructordotcom]

Finally got a chance to start the deuce again after all my July work. I have a slight weeping leak that appears to be from the shutoff cover gasket. But it could be the HH. Three new HH o-rings installed, new shutoff cover gasket installed. I also replaced all three fuel filters since doing the HH o-ring work. Engine started, ran at about 1100 RPM with the throttle in all the way. Then I tried accelerating and it would not go back to idle, would die instead. Started it several times and tried accelerating, sometimes could get it to idle at 900-1000 or so, sometimes it would die. I have a few questions. Could this be due to being one tooth off on reinstalling the HH? Is the weepy leak from the new side cover gasket indicating the shutoff o-ring is leaking? I am real frustrated at having carefully installed everything and the engine is worse off than before I decided to replace the HH o-rings.

 

[Strait]

Finally got a chance to start the deuce again after all my July work. I have a slight weeping leak that appears to be from the shutoff cover gasket. But it could be the HH. Three new HH o-rings installed, new shutoff cover gasket installed. I also replaced all three fuel filters since doing the HH o-ring work. Engine started, ran at about 1100 RPM with the throttle in all the way. Then I tried accelerating and it would not go back to idle, would die instead. Started it several times and tried accelerating, sometimes could get it to idle at 900-1000 or so, sometimes it would die. I have a few questions. Could this be due to being one tooth off on reinstalling the HH? Is the weepy leak from the new side cover gasket indicating the shutoff o-ring is leaking? I am real frustrated at having carefully installed everything and the engine is worse off than before I decided to replace the HH o-rings.

To get mine to run after cleaning and reinstalling hydraulic head with new o-rings, bow tie, and button I had to crank it with the center screw slightly loose until it built pressure. Once pressure built up I tightened it down and it ran great. Don’t know if that will help but it’s an easy solution if it does.

 

[Strait]

Finally got a chance to start the deuce again after all my July work. I have a slight weeping leak that appears to be from the shutoff cover gasket. But it could be the HH. Three new HH o-rings installed, new shutoff cover gasket installed. I also replaced all three fuel filters since doing the HH o-ring work. Engine started, ran at about 1100 RPM with the throttle in all the way. Then I tried accelerating and it would not go back to idle, would die instead. Started it several times and tried accelerating, sometimes could get it to idle at 900-1000 or so, sometimes it would die. I have a few questions. Could this be due to being one tooth off on reinstalling the HH? Is the weepy leak from the new side cover gasket indicating the shutoff o-ring is leaking? I am real frustrated at having carefully installed everything and the engine is worse off than before I decided to replace the HH o-rings.

Thinking about it a little bit more that is exactly how mine ran before I pulled the HH. Then eventually it didn’t run at all. So I pulled the HH and the bow tie was broke and the button had come off.

 

[GunInstructordotcom]

To get mine to run after cleaning and reinstalling hydraulic head with new o-rings, bow tie, and button I had to crank it with the center screw slightly loose until it built pressure. Once pressure built up I tightened it down and it ran great. Don’t know if that will help but it’s an easy solution if it does.

Where is the center screw?

 

[Elk1111]

He’s talking about the bolt in the center of the head between all of the injection lines.
I’d double check the fuel shut off o-ring and possibly replace that again. If it’s nice and tight there shouldn’t be any fuel leaking from there.

 

[Floridianson]

Where is the center screw?

You do not need to remove the center bolt as it also could cause seating problems if you do. We do not need to bleed the injectors on a Deuce. If everything is done right best thing is to let the in tank pump run for a couple of minutes after you bleed the air at the bleed screw between secondary and final fuel filters.
Just to be politically correct it is not called the shut down cover in the TM's. It called the timing cover because there is a timing mark under there but no worries hope you get it figured out.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Finally got a chance to start the deuce again after all my July work. I have a slight weeping leak that appears to be from the shutoff cover gasket. But it could be the HH. Three new HH o-rings installed, new shutoff cover gasket installed. I also replaced all three fuel filters since doing the HH o-ring work. Engine started, ran at about 1100 RPM with the throttle in all the way. Then I tried accelerating and it would not go back to idle, would die instead. Started it several times and tried accelerating, sometimes could get it to idle at 900-1000 or so, sometimes it would die. I have a few questions. Could this be due to being one tooth off on reinstalling the HH? Is the weepy leak from the new side cover gasket indicating the shutoff o-ring is leaking? I am real frustrated at having carefully installed everything and the engine is worse off than before I decided to replace the HH o-rings.

The small bridge that retains the fuel lever under the shutoff cover; you tightened the screws just a hair too much. That's why the idle won't come back down consistently. Pull the shutoff cover off and back one of the screws off just a hair and see if the lever frees up. Moving it by hand now I assure you it sticks a bit. You don't even need to remove the safety wire, that's how little you need to loosen one or both screws. The leak is hard to say without pics

 

[Floridianson]

The small bridge that retains the fuel lever under the shutoff cover; you tightened the screws just a hair too much. That's why the idle won't come back down consistently. Pull the shutoff cover off and back one of the screws off just a hair and see if the lever frees up. Moving it by hand now I assure you it sticks a bit. You don't even need to remove the safety wire, that's how little you need to loosen one or both screws. The leak is hard to say without pics

Garrett was using this thread to help another member. I asked Gimpy Chris something I was thinking about. With the fuel control sticking when the bridge screws are tighten down to much wonder if the fuel control unit assembly little pin on the end is jamming up on the plunger sleeve? I wish I still had a take out IP and see if I could get it to jam up. Then take the little pin and grind off just a little off the wedge end and see if it still jams. Just thinking which is getting harder at my age.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Garrett was using this thread to help another member. I asked Gimpy Chris something I was thinking about. With the fuel control sticking when the bridge screws are tighten down to much wonder if the fuel control unit assembly little pin on the end is jamming up on the plunger sleeve? I wish I still had a take out IP and see if I could get it to jam up. Then take the little pin and grind off just a little off the wedge end and see if it still jams. Just thinking which is getting harder at my age.

It isn't that that causes the binding. The binding is caused by the flex in the plate that the lever goes through. It's a tolerance seal, so just a hair of deflection causes binding. That's why it does it worse with a new o-ring, because you have more pressure pushing back against it in the center.

The nub on the end controls the endplay, however important that may or may not be.

 

[Floridianson]

Just wish I had a old IP to play with. Most of the head replacement I have done same thing just check fuel control unit screws for binding fuel control and loosen as needed. Now I have never checked the gap between fuel control plate and the arm that is held on by the end nut. TM 9- page 3-35 has us checking end play and Min. of 0.023. Does not say much as to why or how to correct and if I remember just replace. Guess as long as the tightness of the fuel control screws is allowing free movement as long as the O ring will always keep fuel from leaking is all that matters.

 

[Floridianson]

Last post was long I know. I am not saying you have to drive around bumping the governor on every shift just wondering if the EGT would have come down with rpm increase. Yea if I remember 1850 1950 rpm torque and HP met so to me that is the sweet spot for when we are up to speed and happily cruising down the road. If we are lugging the motor then a load kicks in being weight or hill and we add more fuel / peddle or the fuel has been turned up yea the temps. will go up and sometimes with rpm increase they will come down. If not the we have to back off main fuel. Myself I was never worried about bumping the governor on any diesel and if you ever drove a 816 you almost had to bump it for the last couple of high range shifts or the rpm would drop to low and be lugging. To me lugging the diesel is any time we put the peddle to the floor the rpm should hit the governor pretty quick and not bog down. Sounds like you are getting close just some fine adjustments might be in order if everything else is correct as air in and out plus no boost leak.