• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M35A2 front pinion bearing broke down

Justincase

Member
28
25
13
Location
Texas
Hello all. I just bought my first deuce and I’m in the process of driving it from Tennessee back to Texas. I almost made it to Louisianan when the front axle pinion bearing went out. I pulled the driveshaft and am currently limping it to Jackson Mississippi. Im not sure if the pinion driveshaft flanges banging around while I drive is going to damage the housing or anything else.
Does anyone have any parts numbers for a front pinion rebuild? I’m hoping I can knock it out tomorrow and continue my trip home. I have an extremely limited amount of tools with me and zero knowledge with Rockwell axles. The axle is leaking gear oil out from the pinion and you can move the flange in/out and side to side probably an inch all ways.
Any and all help is appreciated.
 

cbrTodd

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
270
483
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
If you haven't pulled the drive flanges on the hubs, it will continue to spin the pinion. Pull those off (8 bolts each, 3/4 socket) and it will let the pinion gear stop moving, the same as if you had lock out hubs set on free. It will let dirt into the wheel bearings, but they are greased not oiled so it should still be fine for one trip of highway driving. Would probably be best if you had the outer seals like the rear axles have on there, but they aren't normally needed on the front axle and the TM doesn't call for them being there, best I remember. Should keep the pinion from exploding on your way home, but you will need to fix the pumpkin and service your wheel bearings when you get home.
 

cbrTodd

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
270
483
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
One more thought - you could pull the axle shafts and be able to leave the drive flanges on to protect the wheel bearings. But to do that you would also need to remove the wheel (1 1/2 socket), wheel bearing nuts (I forget the size), pull the hub and brake drum, and then remove the spindle to get the axle shaft out. If you had someone that could get you a set of rear axle outer seals and run without drive flanges, loan you a set of lock out hubs you could set on free, or loan you a set of de-splined drive flanges, any of those options would be easier and less likely to cause more damage.
 

davidb56

Well-known member
1,020
1,237
113
Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
As Todd stated. Remove the drive hubs, have a machined shop remove the splines in them. slap some gease in them and rebolt them on. when you get home, you can order new ones for 140$ a pair. Also, changing pinion bearings isnt a road side repair.
 

Justincase

Member
28
25
13
Location
Texas
If you haven't pulled the drive flanges on the hubs, it will continue to spin the pinion. Pull those off (8 bolts each, 3/4 socket) and it will let the pinion gear stop moving, the same as if you had lock out hubs set on free. It will let dirt into the wheel bearings, but they are greased not oiled so it should still be fine for one trip of highway driving. Would probably be best if you had the outer seals like the rear axles have on there, but they aren't normally needed on the front axle and the TM doesn't call for them being there, best I remember. Should keep the pinion from exploding on your way home, but you will need to fix the pumpkin and service your wheel bearings when you get home.
I just made it into a hotel in Jackson.

I have not done that, I didn’t even think of doing that! I’ve got 577 more miles to go til home. This may be a stupid question, it’s supposed to rain tomorrow all day while driving thru. With the rain and exposed shafts/bearings do you think that it could wipe them out on the drive home? I know going this route I 100% will have to replace my wheel bearings but I’m wanting to make it home. Booth boots are shredded on this truck so I planned on having the axle apart for that already.
 

Justincase

Member
28
25
13
Location
Texas
As Todd stated. Remove the drive hubs, have a machined shop remove the splines in them. slap some gease in them and rebolt them on. when you get home, you can order new ones for 140$ a pair. Also, changing pinion bearings isnt a road side repair.
I’ll check tomorrow to check on machine shops open here. I looked up videos on replacing them but didn’t turn up much. I found one talking about them and they recommended just replacing the entire chunk instead of rebuilding.
 

Justincase

Member
28
25
13
Location
Texas
One more thought - you could pull the axle shafts and be able to leave the drive flanges on to protect the wheel bearings. But to do that you would also need to remove the wheel (1 1/2 socket), wheel bearing nuts (I forget the size), pull the hub and brake drum, and then remove the spindle to get the axle shaft out. If you had someone that could get you a set of rear axle outer seals and run without drive flanges, loan you a set of lock out hubs you could set on free, or loan you a set of de-splined drive flanges, any of those options would be easier and less likely to cause more damage.
Removing the tire isn’t an option for me currently. This truck has super singles and my lack of tools doesnt help lol!
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,467
6,551
113
Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
Yes pull the drive flanges, fashion a bearing cover out of a plastic lid to something, cut a hole in the middle to let the shaft protrude, this will keep the rain out of the bearings somewhat. Don’t worry about rain getting in the center chunk, it’s trash, you will need to replace it later.
 

Justincase

Member
28
25
13
Location
Texas
Yes pull the drive flanges, fashion a bearing cover out of a plastic lid to something, cut a hole in the middle to let the shaft protrude, this will keep the rain out of the bearings somewhat. Don’t worry about rain getting in the center chunk, it’s trash, you will need to replace it later.
10-4 that’s exactly what I’m going to do then. Do you happen to know what gear oil the diffs take?
 

Justincase

Member
28
25
13
Location
Texas
The axles and transfer case all use 80W90 gear oil. There is debate about the transmission but the military used 80W90 in it too.
Thank you sir! I’m sure this diff is probably low from leaking out of the pinion bearings/seal. I guess there wouldn’t be any point in filling it up tho because I’m pulling the drive flanges?
 

cbrTodd

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
270
483
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Thank you sir! I’m sure this diff is probably low from leaking out of the pinion bearings/seal. I guess there wouldn’t be any point in filling it up tho because I’m pulling the drive flanges?
Not really any point, no. If it's not spinning it doesn't matter. Worth checking the others to make sure they are good though.
 

Jbulach

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,664
2,209
113
Location
Sunman Indiana
You could make some ugly caps out of wood, find the closest size hole saw you can find that will still let the axles spin. Only need a few oversize bolt holes with washers.

Good luck!
 
Last edited:

Justincase

Member
28
25
13
Location
Texas
You could make some ugly caps out of wood, find the closest size hole saw you can find that will still let the axles spin. Only need a few oversize bolt holes with washers.

Good luck!
Not really any point, no. If it's not spinning it doesn't matter. Worth checking the others to make sure they are good though.
I just made it into Monroe Louisiana, I got scared of water taking out a wheel bearing so I didn’t remove the drive flanges yet. We’re currently eating then heading to Oreillys to pull them and finish up the trip!
 

Justincase

Member
28
25
13
Location
Texas
I have not figured out what I’m going to do to cover them but I’ll make shift something. Either duct tape or cutting up an oil jug and drilling holes thru it!
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
5,523
2,028
113
Location
London England
If that were me I would just remove the 1/2 shafts.
As the axle wheels are on fully floating bearings , and, IF you are NOT planning to go through 9 (NINE!) feet of water . NOTHING is going to happen to your bearings with 'rain droplets' around .

Logical, IF you earned a dollar for every droplet of rain that entered the hub, my guess is you wouldn't have a enough 'dollars' to buy and ice cream wafer. (Just the wafer!).

REMOVE the shafts, PACK the space with HEAVY cart grease.
Drive Home the rest of the way.
Inform us all how you got on.
 

davidb56

Well-known member
1,020
1,237
113
Location
Bonners Ferry Idaho
If that were me I would just remove the 1/2 shafts.
As the axle wheels are on fully floating bearings , and, IF you are NOT planning to go through 9 (NINE!) feet of water . NOTHING is going to happen to your bearings with 'rain droplets' around .

Logical, IF you earned a dollar for every droplet of rain that entered the hub, my guess is you wouldn't have a enough 'dollars' to buy and ice cream wafer. (Just the wafer!).

REMOVE the shafts, PACK the space with HEAVY cart grease.
Drive Home the rest of the way.
Inform us all how you got on.
its the front axle, and the pumpkin is likely gone with 1" pinion play.
 

Justincase

Member
28
25
13
Location
Texas
Yesterday at Oreillys I pulled the drive flanges, packed as much grease as I can into/around the outside bearing abd went on my way. Knocked out 460 miles yesterday, I started at 8am and got to Waco to at 9pm. I have 127 miles to go today.
Since Friday I’ve drove it for 23 hours. Various leaks have started. Have been running anywhere from 2100-2400 rpms.
 

Justincase

Member
28
25
13
Location
Texas
@Justincase You are a braver man than I am. I would have been worried that the front diff would ingest broken parts and lock up on me while driving. Please let us know how the adventure turned out.
Oh I was!! But I was more scared of a wheel bearing going out and watching my wheel come off and hurt/kill someone.

Ive pulled over every 1-3hours and checked everything on the truck. Besides looking at the wheel bearings and not seeing any liquified grease and physically touching the bearing making sure it’s not hot I’m not sure how else to monitor them.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks