Your NP208 32 spline input shaft is GOLD!

[2INSANE]

I had a random guy ask me if I still have my Np208 32 Spline Input Shaft and was willing to pay almost anything for it!

So I searched the web and sure enough… You can’t find one! Zero! All sold out!

SOOO, just so yal know… I can honestly see a NP208 32 spline CORE go to at least $600! And just the Input Shaft $300+!

Now is the time to sell your unused NP208s!

 

[Skinny]

Talk about a polished turd...

I don't know why someone would chase after that. So they had a half ton with a 208. Must have upgraded the transmission.

Seriously you could swap a 205 in at that point. Already has 32 splines

I wonder if it's easier/cheaper to just put a 241 in?

 

[Sharecropper]

I wonder if it's easier/cheaper to just put a 241 in?

That's what I did. I sourced a super rebuilt NP241C from Mark Bendler at Kodiak Truck. Did away with the leaky rear output shaft in favor of one of Tom Woods Slip Yoke Eliminator kits. The 241's are pressure-oiled instead of relying on chain-splash for lubrication.

 

[Skinny]

Same dimensions right? So no driveshaft refit?

Seems like the way better option over the 208.

 

[Sharecropper]

Same dimensions right? So no driveshaft refit?

Seems like the way better option over the 208.

Yes the 241 case is the same size but just a little different due to thicker castings and room for the oil pump. No driveshaft change unless you go with the SYE. Many of the 241's had the electronic speedometer output. Only the 1988 and a few of the 1989's had the mechanical speedometer output. It took Mark Bendler several months to find a good core with mechanical speedo to rebuild. You might enjoy watching him rebuild a TC. Skip the first 1:50 of the video to get right to Mark's work.

 

[FrankenCub]

You guys got my attention. I just wasted another np208. Would a '90 chevy 1 ton have the np241c?

 

[Sharecropper]

You guys got my attention. I just wasted another np208. Would a '90 chevy 1 ton have the np241c?

Look on the round tag on the rear of the case. It should be stamped on there. You may need to clean it first, but don't use solvent which could erase the paint.

I've been fooling with these things for over 50 years, and in my opinion, Mark Bendler is one of the best TC rebuilders on the planet. If you watch his video, he describes how he machines down the main shaft a few thousands and then inserts needle bearings on the main gear. He will not re-use a rear case but always installs a new improved rear case. If you can bear the cost, the addition of Tom Woods' slip yoke eliminator will eliminate the possibility of losing the rear shaft engagement through extreme suspension travel. If you ever have a rear shaft come out of a case you will lose all TC fluid and burn it up within a few seconds. This will always happen when you are 50 miles from the nearest road and alone. Ask me how I know.

 

[FrankenCub]

I just seen the parts truck on Craigslist and talked to the owner. He's looking for numbers but not finding anything. I told him there should be a tag on it.
Was there more than one t-case option in '90?
He's going to call me back if he finds anything.
For right now I just need something that works. I don't off road my truck so a stock t-case will work fine for me. Unfortunately not in a position to have something rebuilt.

 

[Sharecropper]

I just seen the parts truck on Craigslist and talked to the owner. He's looking for numbers but not finding anything. I told him there should be a tag on it.
Was there more than one t-case option in '90?
He's going to call me back if he finds anything.
For right now I just need something that works. I don't off road my truck so a stock t-case will work fine for me. Unfortunately not in a position to have something rebuilt.

If that is the case (pardon the pun), I suggest you consider reaching out to Rick in Jonestown PA (cucvrus on SS). He probably has a case available, but if not, he could probably steer you in the right direction. If I were you and could get a used case, the first thing I would do would be to thoroughly clean it, drain the fluid, and replace the front output seal. I did a thread on this a while back. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/leaky-front-transfer-case-seal-maybe-not.195119/ Pay attention to what may be floating around in the drained fluid. Many of those cases have been run hard and hardly ever serviced. It will be wise to obtain a case from someone who knows the history of the unit if possible. Hope this helps.