Alternator Issue

[Russm]

Lots of alternator posts from what I can see. Going to add my own.
Had a whine coming from one of the alts, couldn't tell which so decided to rebuild both.

Rebuilt passenger Alt, no issues.

Rebuilt driver alt, whine now appears at higher rpms and output voltage does a yo-yo from 9v to around 30v.

Not being an electric expert, which one of the rebuild parts is bad? A lot of them said made in China

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[Keith_J]

Regulator. Assuming all else is correct.

 

[Squibbly]

Lots of alternator posts from what I can see. Going to add my own.
Had a whine coming from one of the alts, couldn't tell which so decided to rebuild both.

Rebuilt passenger Alt, no issues.

Rebuilt driver alt, whine now appears at higher rpms and output voltage does a yo-yo from 9v to around 30v.

Not being an electric expert, which one of the rebuild parts is bad? A lot of them said made in China

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

Got a video?

 

[Keith_J]

Do check all connections. The plastic two pole connector out the side has two wires, one red and one brown. If there is a problem with the red, it could cause the varying output. The red connects to the positive post of the battery it is supposed to charge. This circuit is charge sense and it must have battery voltage at the alternator.

 

[Tow4]

All of the parts are made in China.

You don't say if the alternator is an original isolated ground. Assuming it is, do this. Click Here.

If it still doesn't charge correctly while testing, disassemble the alternator and check the regulator mounting screws. All three should have a insulating sleeve on them. If the insulators are there, and you have verified the internal wiring is correct, replace the regulator. Check the diodes on the trio, if any of them are bad, replace the trio first.

 

[Russm]

All assembled correctly.
The new regulator says USA on it

New voltage regulator does not cause squeal. But still not outputting around 14.8v.

At least I can drive it and it won't sound like a shit box.
Co workers are tired of my "alternate" car and want to see the "big green menace" lol

I'll order new alts from Mr. Hillbilly. Just want it to work

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[Keith_J]

Do you have a multimeter? Test the regulator block connector on the side of the alternator. The red wire connection needs to be 12 volts on the passenger side, 24 on the drivers side. The red wire is the voltage sense. The big wires.on the back are current wires and at high charge rate, there is a voltage drop over the length of wire.

With a poor connected voltage sense wire, the alternator output can vary.

 

[Tow4]

All assembled correctly.
The new regulator says USA on it

What's the manufacturer or vendor?

 

[Russm]

What's the manufacturer or vendor?

Regitar USA. Something like that

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[Russm]

Right, found my issue sort of.

Hackjob wiring is my issue. Random 12v lead spliced to instrument cluster plug. Stock configuration it's not there...

*Snip*

Issue is solved


Parking brake light doesn't work anymore but, for the most part alt is charging correctly. The wait light, 4x4 light and headlights flicker and the voltage drops briefly when I shift out of park.

Something is loose/shorting/bad ground somewhere

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[Keith_J]

My brake light is also wonky. It is is the dashboard. Next time I get a round tuit

 

[Tow4]

Regitar USA. Something like that

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Regitar USA is the company name. They are a distributor and are owned by Mobiletron. Mobiletron is the manufacturer with plants in Taiwan and China.