Please don’t say head gasket…

[DaneGer21]

You're right. I have the same issues when burning wmo. I see a lot more of the black runs from the exhaust stack because of that. Thinning it more with gas or diesel helps, but wmo in general is more difficult to burn in comparison to diesel or jet fuel. However, I'll take it considering the amount of $$ wmo saves especially when diesel is $5.50/gallon.

I agree, I am currently running…

65% wmo
20% diesel
15% gas

About $1.85/gal when said and done

 

[DaneGer21]

After doing some reading, it looks like I need the “special” head bolt wrench. Anyone have one to sell? Or know where to find one? Or a good link that shows a DIY I could make?

Thanks

 

[smoke]

 

[smoke]

Came from another post on head gasket replacement. 7/8 box end weld to extension.

 

[DaneGer21]

Came from another post on head gasket replacement. 7/8 box end weld to extension.

Thanks! Looks easy enough

 

[ToddJK]

After doing some reading, it looks like I need the “special” head bolt wrench. Anyone have one to sell? Or know where to find one? Or a good link that shows a DIY I could make?

Thanks

I used a 7/8" box end wrench from Sears, it has the offset or a degree of bend similar to one shown above but not that extreme and it worked for me, but I also had the engine torn down when I used it on that side, not sure if that would even work with all the fuel lines and stuff in the way.

 

[cattlerepairman]

All wrenches that are offset will require to do some calculating for the actual torque values!

How to Use a Torque Wrench with a Crowfoot Wrench | TEKTON

Learn how to accurately use a torque wrench with a crowfoot wrench to measure torque. Use the included Torque Conversion Calculator.

www.tekton.com

 

[DaneGer21]

Well, here’s my rendition on the tool; damn near exactly 1” off set. Like posted above, but maybe not as pretty, HAHA I’m sure it may need some extra grinding here or there, but it’s a start…

 

[WillWagner]

1 x 1/2 x 2 1/2 long with an old socket I had lying around.

 

[DaneGer21]

Just curious if anyone has taken the time to cross reference something like ARP head studs vs the originals. I just know when I built a few of my own engines back in the day, I always tried to swap any and all fasteners that were available for that engine over to something like “ARP” for the added strength and less likely to stretch.

 

[WillWagner]

It is a 40's-50's era engine. It was actually used in Oliver tractors. IF you were to twin turbo it, put a pump on it that delivered 3 times the fuel the stocker does, it might be something to consider. That is done in pulling tractors. The bottom end wouldn't survive. The turbo was added to the LDT to get rid of smoke, not for performance.

 

[DaneGer21]

It is a 40's-50's era engine. It was actually used in Oliver tractors. IF you were to twin turbo it, put a pump on it that delivered 3 times the fuel the stocker does, it might be something to consider. That is done in pulling tractors. The bottom end wouldn't survive. The turbo was added to the LDT to get rid of smoke, not for performance.

I’m not looking for added power or to add any power, I’m just saying changing out to different head studs for added strength, and possibly helping some head gaskets stay together longer. For a few hundred dollars, it may not be a bad investment while you’re already in there…only curious

 

[WillWagner]

New style gaskets will fix issues with the multi piece gaskets. IF you need to take it apart, as soon as you disassemble it, you will see the issue with the original design. No need to re torque after replacement with new gaskets.

 

[fleetmech]

New style gaskets will fix issues with the multi piece gaskets. IF you need to take it apart, as soon as you disassemble it, you will see the issue with the original design. No need to re torque after replacement with new gaskets.

I agree with the first part, but respectfully disagree with the latter. I used new style gaskets when I replaced mine last year and decided to do a full retourque after a heat cycle and boy they moved a mile... I definitely recommend a re-torque no matter which gaskets you use. Resetting the valves and stuff is a pain, but its worth it.

As far as replacing studs go, I think its been looked into before, and guys found that the lower threads in the block are not a standard type that ARP or anyone else makes, though I do not remember the details.

OP, not sure if its been mentioned, but remember the final torque varies depending on the engine block. The latter "thick deck" blocks, which have a large 'TD' cast into the passenger side, have a further step in the torque sequence and a higher final torque setting. Make sure you know which one you have.

 

[DaneGer21]

I agree with the first part, but respectfully disagree with the latter. I used new style gaskets when I replaced mine last year and decided to do a full retourque after a heat cycle and boy they moved a mile... I definitely recommend a re-torque no matter which gaskets you use. Resetting the valves and stuff is a pain, but its worth it.

As far as replacing studs go, I think its been looked into before, and guys found that the lower threads in the block are not a standard type that ARP or anyone else makes, though I do not remember the details.

OP, not sure if its been mentioned, but remember the final torque varies depending on the engine block. The latter "thick deck" blocks, which have a large 'TD' cast into the passenger side, have a further step in the torque sequence and a higher final torque setting. Make sure you know which one you have.

I just looked, it is a “TD”

 

[cattlerepairman]

When I rebuilt my LDS in 2016, I remember looking into this and the head studs (two different lengths) and nuts were available from ARB with the specs from the original studs (length, diameter, thread, not by search for a model). Yes, the studs have two different threads on them. I did not go for it, because I did not hop up the power of the LDS and the studs were ridiculously expensive, like 20 bucks a piece or close to it, and as you all know, rebuilding a multi already costs more in parts than what the market value of the engine is.

 

[Computerdoc08]

When I rebuilt my LDS in 2016, I remember looking into this and the head studs (two different lengths) and nuts were available from ARB with the specs from the original studs (length, diameter, thread, not by search for a model). Yes, the studs have two different threads on them. I did not go for it, because I did not hop up the power of the LDS and the studs were ridiculously expensive, like 20 bucks a piece or close to it, and as you all know, rebuilding a multi already costs more in parts than what the market value of the engine is.

Do you by chance have any specs or part numbers for the ARB studs?

 

[cattlerepairman]

Three sizes of head studs, actually. I got what I needed back then (12 point rod bolts) from a tractor supply; the White 2-155 engine shares many common internals with the multifuel LDS.

White | AGCO White 2-155 Engine and Overhaul Kits

White | AGCO White 2-155 Engine and Overhaul Kits. If you are not finding what you need for your White | AGCO White 2-155 please call Jensales at 800-443-0625. Engine Parts offered range from complete overhaul kits to rod bearings, main bearings, pistons

www.jensales.com

Look for head studs in the filter.

Reliance parts is another place that has them.

Then cross reference to ARP. You probably have to call them.



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[smoke]

Any updates? Did you retorque head? Reset rest of injectors?

 

[DaneGer21]

Any updates? Did you retorque head? Reset rest of injectors?

I have NOT checked the torque, but I did have a set of (6) injectors that I found super cheap locally, they are the shim style. I’ve been soaking them for a few days now, disassembled, all (6) needles were stuck. Got everything freed up and put them on the pop tester. (4) chattered around 3000psi., (2) still leaked. Cleaned those all over again, and tested again, one was 3100, the other about 2850.

After trail and error with shims, I have them all between 3350-3450psi. All chattering nicely!

Got the current injectors out of the truck this afternoon and all (6) that I just reset installed. I did use new bushing/gaskets and copper washers. I fired up the truck to check for leaks but have not driven it yet.