Bigsampson
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Looks like you welded the aluminum plate to the steel frame??
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Another way to lower an M1101/M1102
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Bigsampson
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For those that ditched the shocks, how did it perform ?
I have new rims and 33’s coming in a few days. Considering dropping it another 2 inches or so. Don’t think I need the drastic step of dropping it all the way to the frame, but am curious.
I have new rims and 33’s coming in a few days. Considering dropping it another 2 inches or so. Don’t think I need the drastic step of dropping it all the way to the frame, but am curious.
MixManSC
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Sorry - missed this....
Yes.
Also - mine tows great without the shocks. I have read others who have said pretty much the same thing.
I just lowered my M1101 by 2-1/2 inches using this write up and it worked out great! With the original wheels/tires mounted and the bed level the hitch sits 25 inches from the ground now. It also looks substantially lower as well! I’d say all in all it took about 8 hours in my garage using basic tools and an impact gun. To remove the rivets holding the brake lines on I used a Dremel with metal cutoff discs. Then to cut the metal structure off the trailer I used a jigsaw with metal cutting blades which sliced through it like butter. I also moved the axle forward 3/4th an inch like suggested here and the tires still look completely centered. I’d say the harder at part was just crawling in and out from underneath all day lol.
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Man, maybe this is the push I need to finally buy the cordless jigsaw I've been eyeballing but never buying. I cut mine with a Hackzall, and "like butter" is not in any way how I'd describe it... I think I spent about 40 minutes making the 4 long cuts, with fresh blades, and used about 20aH worth of M12 batteries.
Cutting the U's for the axle had me close to pulling the trigger alone, I cut starter slots with the dremel for the top & each angle, and just that was a silly amount of work. I'd just finished it Monday or Tuesday a couple weeks ago, and told myself I could stand to never do that again... then that Wednesday won an 802 on a trailer, that I'm planning to turn into its flatbed twin.
This is probably ancient history to you but I'm curious about the trailer you lowered using 2 1/2" square tubing, ripped in half, to form two U-shaped pieces. Has there been any evidence of structural weakness in the U-shape vs. square? How critical is it that the cut sides (facing up and supporting the frame) be exactly flat and parallel? I have a plasma cutter but not completely comfortable in my precision. Lastly, how can the axle be moved forward by 1/2" on the 1st one, 3/4" on the 2nd one, and 1-1 1/2" on potentially a 3rd one and still all look centered? (sorry, not trying to be a smart ass by asking, maybe there's some kind of arc thing happening as the trailer lowers, the wheel moves back?)Third time is a charm!! I lowered another one today, and it's even better than the first two! (I can do it start to finish in about 5 hours now, by myself.)
The other two are lowered 2-1/2", and the second one I did I also slid the axle forward 1/2", which worked out well. (More shock length, and still looks centered in the wheel opening.)
Today I cut my 2-1/2" square tube lengthwise down the middle, so I got two U-shaped pieces that were each only about 1-1/8" tall after I cleaned them up. I pointed the legs up, against the frame. It was a little tricky to get the bolts tight, but I managed. So this trailer is now lowered 3-7/8", and I LIKE it!! I also slid the axle forward 3/4" to add some shock length.
I had considered just letting the axle rest right against the bottom of the frame, but I don't think it'll work unless I leave off the shocks. Plus, this trailer looks pretty low now. I don't think I want it any lower.
One thing I did notice in doing all these trailers is that my two 2009 trailers have shocks that won't collapse the final inch of shaft into the body. The older trailer has shocks that do collapse completely. The fully collapsible shocks will work better on lowered trailers. I probably should move the fully collapsing shocks to the first trailer I did, since it's shocks only have 1/2" or so travel before they bottom. (I put zip ties on them and they don't even move 1/2" with me really shaking it around... even with 2000lbs of water, pump, and hose reel!)
I'll try to get a few pictures up tomorrow.
djglover7
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Did you ever post pics of the " U-shaped pieces that were each only about 1-1/8" tall " process?
bug out
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Hi,
I am new to the forum having just purchased an M1102 with the intention of turning it into camper trailer. Like most have found it to be too tall.
Lowering is a good option.
Having now read all the posts I like what I see. It does look like a project quite readily achieved.
How is your trailer performing? What do you use for the towing vehicle?
I see the bottle jack for the axle. But how did you support the box on top?
When you replaced the shock was it easy to get it back on after lowering?
Thanks look forward to reply,
Chris
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1stDeuce
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A little late...
No, no issues. It's really just there to allow some weight to press on the actual "frame", and to make me feel better. Most of the "structure" is handled by the side bolts, which is all that holds many of these axles into commercial trailers so I think you could skip the U-s and it would be fine.
Not sure where you saw 1-1/2" forward. I moved the last two about 3/4" forward, which puts the wheel a tiny bit forward of center in the wheel well if you measure, but it's so close you can't really see it unless you are completely OCD about it. Two reasons to do this are to maintain some shock travel and to relieve just a bit of tongue weight (a very small bit...) as the axle is pretty far back relative to the trailer load floor.
I help precision by clamping on a guide of some sort and cutting along it. I use a speed square a lot...
1stDeuce
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I did not. I think that's the trailer I sold a couple years ago, so you're out on pics. Use your imagination. If you can weld aluminum, you could always section out a bit from the part I cut off and re-weld it. That is shown in a previous post and looks really good. It takes a BIG welder to weld aluminum plate this thick though...