No tail lights

[darter]

1990 M998, when the head lights are on I have no tail lights and I lose the left turn signal only (the right works), brake lights work side markers work.
I've replaced the light switch with new (never used) switch, installed Kascar grounding kit.
Where should I be looking next?
Ive also noticed my generator meter jumps from bottom to green for the first couple minutes after startup then settles in the green.

 

[mgFray]

Check all your grounds, check the turn signal switch connections, etc.

Edit: I forgot to add, my 1988 had similar problems, in my case all but one item was a corroded ground at the light. The remaining case was a lose wire under the dash near the turn signal switch. Just plugged the connector in tighter and the issue went away.

 

[Coug]

To start off, the bouncing voltage needle is normal as long as it goes away after a minute or two. These have an "afterglow" function that pulses power to the glow plugs to help things warm up faster, without burning up the glow plugs.
Some versions of the control box use the pulse, others use a reduced voltage. Both accomplish the same thing.

As for lights, I'll agree with mgFray; it sounds like you probably have some bad connections in your wiring.
Start out at the light assemblies and test for voltage, and then work your way back to the switch area.

 

[Action]

Did you check the dim bulbs? Or their sockets for voltage?
There are 2 bolts holding each lamp to the truck or hood. Replace those bolts with new ones and completely clean the ground wire loop and the metal plates between each pair of bolts.

 

[darter]

Well, this is a problem weather it is "the" problem has yet to be seen
I guess I'll order up some new tail lights.

 

[Milcommoguy]

I think it was the weather .......Differently a problem. Not the first time either. Get some new ground return / bridging straps too. Maybe some male packard connectors for the body harness. On plastic buckets one of the bolts is the ground. Strap in place makes it easy. No worries on the metal housings ? Next take a peek at the side markers. Bet there're all buggered up to. Rust buckets. How much water poured out?

Not much help. Stick with it , GOOD LUCK. CAMO

 

[Guyfang]

We always used a dab of silicone grease on the Packard connectors. First off, makes them easy to remove later on down the line, and secondly, we rubbed the grease into the rubber to keep it from getting hard.

 

[darter]

I think on the new ones I'll go with brass bolts and fab up a copper grounding strap

 

[TOBASH]

I think on the new ones I'll go with brass bolts and fab up a copper grounding strap

Might be a bad idea unless you have special dielectric grease meant for Aluminum wires used in the 1970's. You might corrode like a mother.

Use stainless steel or Zinc plated steel.

IMHO YMMV

Edit - In the 1970’s they used Aluminum wires. They needed to couple them with Copper at the outlets. Corrosion would set in UNLESS special dielectric grease was used where Copper met Aluminum. Brass contains Copper and our vehicle bodies are Aluminum.

 

[darter]

Might be a bad idea unless you have special dielectric grease meant for Aluminum wires used in the 1970's. You might corrode like a mother.

Use stainless steel or Zinc plated steel.

IMHO YMMV

Thanks for the tip

 

[Mogman]

Actually on the plastic lights (incandescent) both of the mounting bolts must be grounded, why the strap exists to begin with.

 

[Bulldogger]

Ive also noticed my generator meter jumps from bottom to green for the first couple minutes after startup then settles in the green.

This is an easy answer and not bad news: That's the glow plug cycle. Intended and expected from a diesel. (I asked about it too, shortly after I got my 998 running.)
Welcome to the club!
Bulldogger

 

[Mogman]

This is an easy answer and not bad news: That's the glow plug cycle. Intended and expected from a diesel. (I asked about it too, shortly after I got my 998 running.)
Welcome to the club!
Bulldogger

It is called afterglow

 

[papakb]

You can go to the local hardware store and get a copper strap used for pipe hanging to make up ground straps for the lights. Quick and easy.

 

[Mogman]

Might be a bad idea unless you have special dielectric grease meant for Aluminum wires used in the 1970's. You might corrode like a mother.

Use stainless steel or Zinc plated steel.

IMHO YMMV

Edit - In the 1970’s they used Aluminum wires. They needed to couple them with Copper at the outlets. Corrosion would set in UNLESS special dielectric grease was used where Copper met Aluminum. Brass contains Copper and our vehicle bodies are Aluminum.

Not sure why this would be a problem, brass and copper are compatible and the lights bolt up to plastic not aluminum, (the rear light buckets are plastic) the threaded inserts in the lights are probably brass also.
As I have said before nothing grounds through the aluminum body.

 

[TOBASH]

Not sure why this would be a problem, brass and copper are compatible and the lights bolt up to plastic not aluminum, (the rear light buckets are plastic) the threaded inserts in the lights are probably brass also.
As I have said before nothing grounds through the aluminum body.

It’s the brass on the Aluminum and brass on steel my friend… not the brass on Copper that concerns me. LOL

 

[Mogman]

It’s the brass on the Aluminum and brass on steel my friend… not the brass on Copper that concerns me. LOL

Where is the brass on aluminum or steel? the lights bolt to plastic, not aluminum or steel.
EDIT, the light buckets that are riveted to the body are made of plastic.

 

[TOBASH]

The rear light cup might be plastic BUT where the screws attach the wiring is Copper and the grounding strap and light sockets are galvanized steel. The light buckets attach to the Aluminum body.

You’re an amazing guy who created a duravee, so not looking to go toe to toe. You can PM me and we can have a friendly talk outside this thread my respected friend. Make no mistake, I hold you in high regard.

T