Stuck ujoints

[ldmack3]

I heard a rattling sound last drive and discovered a ujoint on the propeller shaft connecting two real diffs was gone. Surprised I made it home. Pulled the shaft and pounded out both of the ujoints. (Tap my arse!) They were snap ring type. Decided when I get my new parts and build it up I will take to have it balanced while it's out.

Checked the next propeller shaft, transfer to forward rear axle, and ujoints were sloppy but not as bad. Pulled it to replace and have balanced.
The second shaft is the bearing cap type. Pulled the bolts and keepers and broke the cap flange off trying to pry one out. Per the TM this happens, just go to the other side and pull the bearing cap then pound the other one out. It broke off too. Caps are stuck bad. Drilled hole in one, slid a small rod through the ujoint to try and drive off the other broken cap. No joy

Need some advice before I get too crazy. I have all of them soaking in kroil but need a better plan.

 

[simp5782]

Tiger tool. Available from oreillys if you need it fast

Or heat

 

[ldmack3]

Since the actual bearing cap is still on both sides, will it still just push out?

 

[simp5782]

Since the actual bearing cap is still on both sides, will it still just push out?

Yes it will push down on the joint on the outside.

 

[williamh]

I would spend a little more time under the truck with a grease gun looking for fittings in the near future. Might save you more time in the future using a hammer.

 

[ToddJK]

This is how I always removed the u-joints from driveshafts. I use a small sledge hammer but whatever works.

 

[davidb56]

This is how I always removed the u-joints from driveshafts. I use a small sledge hammer but whatever works.

that's a funny pic, since the shaft/joint is sitting on top of the plate that comes with the Harbor Freight press. hahahaha

 

[ToddJK]

that's a funny pic, since the shaft/joint is sitting on top of the plate that comes with the Harbor Freight press. hahahaha

I didn't even realize that! Lol. At least the concept is there though!

 

[ldmack3]

My other shaft is the snap ring type. It’s done. I’ve had it for almost 2 years, put less than 250 miles on it and lubed it 3 times Making sure I got everything.

 

[INFChief]

The Tiger tool is the best option. I avoid putting heat on things like that. I used a 2 jaw puller on mine. Pushed the joint right through, removed the one exposed cap, then put the puller on the other side - lined up the opposite cap straight in the bore - and pushed the u-joint back so I could remove the drive shaft.

 

[ldmack3]

The Tiger tool is the best option. I avoid putting heat on things like that. I used a 2 jaw puller on mine. Pushed the joint right through, removed the one exposed cap, then put the puller on the other side - lined up the opposite cap straight in the bore - and pushed the u-joint back so I could remove the drive shaft.

Did you use your Tiger on a snapring or bearing cap type? How did you get the cap off? That's the challenge. With the caps off worst case is I take it to my local shop and them press them out.

 

[INFChief]

Did you use your Tiger on a snapring or bearing cap type? How did you get the cap off? That's the challenge. With the caps off worst case is I take it to my local shop and them press them out.

Keep in mind that I’m throwing away this u-joint. I knocked the flat retaining strap off so I had access to the y-joint cap. I removed the 2 retaining bolts from the u-joint cap retaining strap on the opposite side.

Then, I used a 2 jaw puller to drive the u-joint. I slid the jaws under the u-joint flange and placed the threaded rod on the u-joint cap. As I tightened the puller the threaded bolt pushed the cap in towards the center of the yolk and drove the far u-joint cap (opposite side of the yolk) out the back side of the yolk. Once I removed the back side U-joint cap I put the puller on that side and drive the u-joint back out the other side until I could remove that cap.

The picture shows the cap on but I just took this photo to illustrate what I did. You can see the u-joint retaining cap that I knocked off in the other photo.

 

[ldmack3]

Keep in mind that I’m throwing away this u-joint. I knocked the flat retaining strap off so I had access to the y-joint cap. I removed the 2 retaining bolts from the u-joint cap retaining strap on the opposite side.

Then, I used a 2 jaw puller to drive the u-joint. I slid the jaws under the u-joint flange and placed the threaded rod on the u-joint cap. As I tightened the puller the threaded bolt pushed the cap in towards the center of the yolk and drove the far u-joint cap (opposite side of the yolk) out the back side of the yolk. Once I removed the back side U-joint cap I put the puller on that side and drive the u-joint back out the other side until I could remove that cap.

The picture shows the cap on but I just took this photo to illustrate what I did. You can see the u-joint retaining cap that I knocked off in the other photo.

Thanks much! Did you also use the puller to install the new caps?
The forward caps literally fell off as soon as I started prying and tapping.

 

[INFChief]

Thanks much! Did you also use the puller to install the new caps?
The forward caps literally fell off as soon as I started prying and tapping.

I haven’t installed new u-joints. I’m taking the drive shaft to the drive line company so it can be checked out & balanced. They will install the new joints.

I haven’t thought that far ahead - but have toyed with using a big C clamp to press the new caps in to the yolk. That, or I’ll use 2 flat bars with a hole drilled in each end and use 2 long bolts and compress the bars together to effectively drive the caps in to the yolk.

What are your thoughts on those 2 ideas?

 

[ldmack3]

I haven’t installed new u-joints. I’m taking the drive shaft to the drive line company so it can be checked out & balanced. They will install the new joints.

I haven’t thought that far ahead - but have toyed with using a big C clamp to press the new caps in to the yolk. That, or I’ll use 2 flat bars with a hole drilled in each end and use 2 long bolts and compress the bars together to effectively drive the caps in to the yolk.

What are your thoughts on those 2 ideas?

I tried using a C clamp but not enough power and my vise doesn't have enough jaw opening.
On the one end (the easy one) used a hammer and wood block working back and forth. I think angles would be needed for strength, not sure a flat bar would work. I may take the tight end to a local shop and have them press it in. Or I may make a trip to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap press. Need to do some tranny work this summer and need one anyway.

 

[ldmack3]

Northern tool has a 12 ton press on sale for $129+free freight. Cheap and short (48" tall) but just what I need for the few projects I have coming up. Ordered.

Strongway 12-Ton Hydraulic Shop Press | Northern Tool

This 12-Ton Strongway Hydraulic Shop Press is great for straightening, stamping, bending and pressing any component that is hard ...

www.northerntool.com

 

[ldmack3]

All done but neglected to take a pic before removal. Does it matter which end of the driveshaft goes on the aft rear axle? Can't find a pic in parts or 209-20.

 

[rustystud]

All done but neglected to take a pic before removal. Does it matter which end of the driveshaft goes on the aft rear axle? Can't find a pic in parts or 209-20.

Usually the slip joint goes "up" . That is to prevent debris and water settling in to the slip joint. So if your installing the shaft between the differentials, then point the slip joint towards the front of the truck.

 

[ldmack3]

Usually the slip joint goes "up" . That is to prevent debris and water settling in to the slip joint. So if your installing the shaft between the differentials, then point the slip joint towards the front of the truck.

Thanks Rusty