Fuel delivery issue M1123 ,Crank no start .....help?!

[Humveegene]

Hi all,
I'm a new owner (and new to steelsoldiers}of a M1123 received it from GP in mid May. The fuel tank out of the truck and missing parts i.e. 3 of the six straps , some cut return lines ,pick up tube and sock,a few nuts fittings and bolts the starter cover for the flywheel and lastly the 2 items that were disturbing to say the least the "smart box" and just discovered last week an top non grooved idler pulley and all the hardware .
I have replaced rebuilt and installed the fuel tank ,vent lines and installed a Camotek box to replaced the so called smart box (thank you great idea ) .I'm waiting on an idler pulley from hummer parts guy. i've replaced filters and filled fluids new batteries,1 cable and replaced glow plugs (3 were a bitch to get out,but seemed like they were all in good shape ...except bent top leads) . I have attempted to start 4 or 5 times , on smoke etc and did this before discovering the missing idler pulley ( I realized the belt was rubbing on the upper rad hose when i was purging fuel...duh ) . I have some or little hope? IDK now that I don't need to go and replace the IJ pump .I also have a trans light with it in run or start im guessing for the relay....but i need to get it started first .
I'm getting fuel to the filter, and out the bleed screw and sample port. have seen fuel to the return hose on the top of fuel injector pump. Cracked 3 injetor nuts ....no fuel ....the 54A lead off and on am hearing the fuel shutoff relay click.? I have referenced the TM's supplemental manuals and Youtube . Any help would be appreciated im located in SE Wi near Racine.

USAF Vet SSGT Wepons loader B52 /F16

 

[Mogman]

It sounds like you have trouble shot it all the way to a bad IP
Fuel in the IP, yes,, Run solenoid "clicking" yes fuel out of the IP, no
You may want to try a few more times, be patient and easy on the starter
Then if no fuel you may as well remove the top cover on the IP (uses 5 point torx drive) and have a look and see if there is any rust etc, you can also see if the IP is actually turning or if it is seized.
AND WELCOME!!!

 

[papakb]

The fuel shutoff solenoid has a bad habit of sticking if the truck sat for a long time and the fuel in the bowl dried up. Before I jumped into a new IP I think I'd work to verify the solenoid isn't stuck closed.

 

[Mullaney]

Hi all,
I'm a new owner (and new to steelsoldiers}of a M1123 received it from GP in mid May. The fuel tank out of the truck and missing parts i.e. 3 of the six straps , some cut return lines ,pick up tube and sock,a few nuts fittings and bolts the starter cover for the flywheel and lastly the 2 items that were disturbing to say the least the "smart box" and just discovered last week an top non grooved idler pulley and all the hardware .
I have replaced rebuilt and installed the fuel tank ,vent lines and installed a Camotek box to replaced the so called smart box (thank you great idea ) .I'm waiting on an idler pulley from hummer parts guy. i've replaced filters and filled fluids new batteries,1 cable and replaced glow plugs (3 were a bitch to get out,but seemed like they were all in good shape ...except bent top leads) . I have attempted to start 4 or 5 times , on smoke etc and did this before discovering the missing idler pulley ( I realized the belt was rubbing on the upper rad hose when i was purging fuel...duh ) . I have some or little hope? IDK now that I don't need to go and replace the IJ pump .I also have a trans light with it in run or start im guessing for the relay....but i need to get it started first .
I'm getting fuel to the filter, and out the bleed screw and sample port. have seen fuel to the return hose on the top of fuel injector pump. Cracked 3 injetor nuts ....no fuel ....the 54A lead off and on am hearing the fuel shutoff relay click.? I have referenced the TM's supplemental manuals and Youtube . Any help would be appreciated im located in SE Wi near Racine.

USAF Vet SSGT Wepons loader B52 /F16

.
Welcome to the Outfit! Happy to hear that you are the proud new owner of a M1123 as well. I know it isn't nearly as exciting as turning wrenches but it might be worth some time spent "hitting the books" (The TM's - Technical Manuals). Free to download here on the site.

Some pictures of your New-To-You truck might be useful. Snap a few of the outside, then post a few of the engine compartment and upload all of them. (Limited to 10 pictured per post) You never know... Somebody may spot a loose wire or a disconnected hose.

Again, welcome to the group!
.

 

[Maxjeep1]

It sounds like you have trouble shot it all the way to a bad IP
Fuel in the IP, yes,, Run solenoid "clicking" yes fuel out of the IP, no
You may want to try a few more times, be patient and easy on the starter
Then if no fuel you may as well remove the top cover on the IP (uses 5 point torx drive) and have a look and see if there is any rust etc, you can also see if the IP is actually turning or if it is seized.
AND WELCOME!!!

6 point torx? With the cover off you can see if IP is turning? I’m right where he is at with my non runner. I have fuel in and out of water separator/Filter and I see fuel in the return line with a clear hose on it. Fuel only got about 3/4 of the way up the return line.

 

[Mogman]

6 point torx? With the cover off you can see if IP is turning? I’m right where he is at with my non runner. I have fuel in and out of water separator/Filter and I see fuel in the return line with a clear hose on it. Fuel only got about 3/4 of the way up the return line.

5 point torx not 6
The body of the IP only needs to be full of diesel, fuel will only come out of the return line if the body is full and there is enough pressure to overcome the check valve in the return line fitting.
The IP is very simple, fuel in the body, run valve open (solenoid) and rotation of the pump is all that is needed to see fuel in the injector lines.
After a few more tries to get fuel to the injectors (you could try lightly rapping on the IP body with power applied to the run solenoid to maybe loosen a stuck run valve) , If it were me after that I would carefully pull the top cover and have a look see..
With the fuel system chopped up water could have gotten into the IP.

 

[Mogman]

6 point torx? With the cover off you can see if IP is turning? I’m right where he is at with my non runner. I have fuel in and out of water separator/Filter and I see fuel in the return line with a clear hose on it. Fuel only got about 3/4 of the way up the return line.

I will bust open a core pump tomorrow and see if I can get a pic on where to look to see if the pump is seized.

 

[Mogman]

Sorry, I got side tracked today.
In the first picture you can see if the input coupling is turning, you need to suck the fuel out first, I use a horse syringe, the arrow is pointing to where the coupling is, it is almost completely inside the housing but you can see it.

Then you can also look in the hole where you would turn up the pump and you can see the allen head pass by as the pump is turning, if the pump head seizes it can shear the shaft between the input coupling and the head, if you see the allen head passing by the hole the head is turning.

Sorry for the extra arrow on the left, did not catch that when editing the picture...

 

[Mogman]

If you do remove the to you must make sure to get the fuel solenoid lever in the correct place when replacing the top or you could have a run-away engine.

 

[Humveegene]

Sorry, I got side tracked today.
In the first picture you can see if the input coupling is turning, you need to suck the fuel out first, I use a horse syringe, the arrow is pointing to where the coupling is, it is almost completely inside the housing but you can see it.
View attachment 870470
Then you can also look in the hole where you would turn up the pump and you can see the allen head pass by as the pump is turning, if the pump head seizes it can shear the shaft between the input coupling and the head, if you see the allen head passing by the hole the head is turning.
View attachment 870471
Sorry for the extra arrow on the left, did not catch that when editing the picture...

Thank you so much,that’s going to be a huge help . I am having issues finding the right bit to remove the 3 screws. I did order 1 set of security torx and bought 2 sets @ various sizes from Harbor freight, no luck. I’m not really thrilled about spending 55 bucks for the right bit from stanadyne . I’ll get them off but no bit seems to fit right.

 

[Mogman]

Thank you so much,that’s going to be a huge help . I am having issues finding the right bit to remove the 3 screws. I did order 1 set of security torx and bought 2 sets @ various sizes from Harbor freight, no luck. I’m not really thrilled about spending 55 bucks for the right bit from stanadyne . I’ll get them off but no bit seems to fit right.

Just remember you are looking for 5 point bits.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Thank you so much,that’s going to be a huge help . I am having issues finding the right bit to remove the 3 screws. I did order 1 set of security torx and bought 2 sets @ various sizes from Harbor freight, no luck. I’m not really thrilled about spending 55 bucks for the right bit from stanadyne . I’ll get them off but no bit seems to fit right.

9$ on Amazon!

Amazon.com

 

[Maxjeep1]

Sorry, I got side tracked today.
In the first picture you can see if the input coupling is turning, you need to suck the fuel out first, I use a horse syringe, the arrow is pointing to where the coupling is, it is almost completely inside the housing but you can see it.
View attachment 870470
Then you can also look in the hole where you would turn up the pump and you can see the allen head pass by as the pump is turning, if the pump head seizes it can shear the shaft between the input coupling and the head, if you see the allen head passing by the hole the head is turning.
View attachment 870471
Sorry for the extra arrow on the left, did not catch that when editing the picture...

This was really helpful. I ordered my horse syringe and it will be here tomorrow. My thinking is if pump is spinning pump is pumping… I don’t want to replace my ip until every bit of troubleshooting is done…

 

[Milcommoguy]

This was really helpful. I ordered my horse syringe and it will be here tomorrow. My thinking is if pump is spinning pump is pumping… I don’t want to replace my ip until every bit of troubleshooting is done…

Turkey baster. Cheap at Wally World $2.29 Who would of thought...HMMWV tools at the market?

Right there on the label. Approved for all HMMWV uses including power steering, brakes, fuel, battery water and turkeys too. LOL




Or take a chance in the bosses kitchen. CAMO

 

[Mogman]

Amazon is evil...

Turkey baster. Cheap at Wally World $2.29 Who would of thought...HMMWV tools at the market?

Right there on the label. Approved for all HMMWV uses including power steering, brakes, fuel, battery water and turkeys too. LOL


View attachment 870543

Or take a chance in the bosses kitchen. CAMO

That is actually a little big to get into the nooks and crannies of the IP.
I do use these for filling T cases, would also work on diffs and hubs but I have a grease pump for that.

I get them at the dollar store.

 

[Maxjeep1]

I received my syringe with tube and it got every drop of fuel out of the ip. I was able to see the shaft spin in the front and where you would turn the fuel up. I don’t know what could be going on inside but that has to be why it won’t pump fuel.

 

[TNDRIVER]

I received my syringe with tube and it got every drop of fuel out of the ip. I was able to see the shaft spin in the front and where you would turn the fuel up. I don’t know what could be going on inside but that has to be why it won’t pump fuel.

There is a screen in the back end of mine where the fuel enters, behind the flare nut fitting, does yours have one and checked???

 

[Mogman]

Well if the head is spinning and you have no indication of rust or other contaminants you should put it back together and try again, if you look at the run/stop lever off of the solenoid and the linkage you can see how it needs to go back together, there should be a slight spring pressure you must overcome to align the bolt holes but no resistance vertically to get the cover to mate up.
bust all the lines loose or as many as you can get to, if you start getting fuel out of the injector lines remove the run wire from the pump and make sure the fuel stops before tightening up the lines to be sure the run/stop solenoid is working correctly.

 

[Mogman]

There is a screen in the back end of mine where the fuel enters, behind the flare nut fitting, does yours have one and checked???

He is getting fuel into the IP so that screen is not plugged. I do not recommend messing with it unless you have to as any contamination gets past the screen will wreck the pump.

 

[Maxjeep1]

There is a screen in the back end of mine where the fuel enters, behind the flare nut fitting, does yours have one and checked???

I didn’t know it had one there. I’m charging batteries now and I will try to get it out and take a look at it. Thanks!