Removing the bleed valves from the air tanks

[kenn]

I bought a couple of pull-chain type valve releases so I don't have to crawl under. I got under there with the creeper figuring this would be an easy one but, alas, I don't get easy. The brass nut must be 17/32 and the 9/16 is a little loose. I looked around for one in stock locally and it appears that it is made but very uncommon and more than likely very expensive. So... I'd like to get these off without leaving myself an unrepairable mistake or a one-time expensive tool. The replacements are definitely 9/16.

I sprayed some pb blaster on there and will let it sit a couple of days but the 9/16 will definitely round that fitting as it is soft metal. Perhaps cut the little wings off and put a 9/16 6-sided socket in there? I assume I could get after it with some kind of vise-grip but, again, if I damage a fitting, the truck will be down until I correct it.

Any suggestions beyond those two?

 

[Welder1]

I bought a couple of pull-chain type valve releases so I don't have to crawl under. I got under there with the creeper figuring this would be an easy one but, alas, I don't get easy. The brass nut must be 17/32 and the 9/16 is a little loose. I looked around for one in stock locally and it appears that it is made but very uncommon and more than likely very expensive. So... I'd like to get these off without leaving myself an unrepairable mistake or a one-time expensive tool. The replacements are definitely 9/16.

I sprayed some pb blaster on there and will let it sit a couple of days but the 9/16 will definitely round that fitting as it is soft metal. Perhaps cut the little wings off and put a 9/16 6-sided socket in there? I assume I could get after it with some kind of vise-grip but, again, if I damage a fitting, the truck will be down until I correct it.

Any suggestions beyond those two?

You probably need to put some heat on the fittings to help break loose the thread sealant. Sometimes the fittings bond in fairly hard and the heat helps to free things up.

 

[Big Tom]

I bought a couple of pull-chain type valve releases so I don't have to crawl under. I got under there with the creeper figuring this would be an easy one but, alas, I don't get easy. The brass nut must be 17/32 and the 9/16 is a little loose. I looked around for one in stock locally and it appears that it is made but very uncommon and more than likely very expensive. So... I'd like to get these off without leaving myself an unrepairable mistake or a one-time expensive tool. The replacements are definitely 9/16.

I sprayed some pb blaster on there and will let it sit a couple of days but the 9/16 will definitely round that fitting as it is soft metal. Perhaps cut the little wings off and put a 9/16 6-sided socket in there? I assume I could get after it with some kind of vise-grip but, again, if I damage a fitting, the truck will be down until I correct it.

Any suggestions beyond those two?

I bought a couple of pull-chain type valve releases so I don't have to crawl under. I got under there with the creeper figuring this would be an easy one but, alas, I don't get easy. The brass nut must be 17/32 and the 9/16 is a little loose. I looked around for one in stock locally and it appears that it is made but very uncommon and more than likely very expensive. So... I'd like to get these off without leaving myself an unrepairable mistake or a one-time expensive tool. The replacements are definitely 9/16.

I sprayed some pb blaster on there and will let it sit a couple of days but the 9/16 will definitely round that fitting as it is soft metal. Perhaps cut the little wings off and put a 9/16 6-sided socket in there? I assume I could get after it with some kind of vise-grip but, again, if I damage a fitting, the truck will be down until I correct it.

Any suggestions beyond those two?
[/QUOT
Try using a 9/16 line wrench it will be much better than a open end one
Big Tom

 

[kenn]

I can get a line wrench and try that as well. I'll have to bend or cut at least one side of the "butterfly" off of the valve, though, to get it on there -- I think... It's a cheaper suggestion, though. I'll pick one up, hit it with my propane torch, and then give it a go.

 

[18operator]

Maybe some heat and a good tight "cresent" wrench?

 

[Big Tom]

I can get a line wrench and try that as well. I'll have to bend or cut at least one side of the "butterfly" off of the valve, though, to get it on there -- I think... It's a cheaper suggestion, though. I'll pick one up, hit it with my propane torch, and then give it a go.

You could also cut the valve off with a hack saw just below the hex and put a six point socket on it , and as you said heat always helps, be sure to heat around the valve not directly on it

 

[glcaines]

I replaced the three drain valves on my FLU419 and had a terrible time getting them loose. As mentioned, it was the sealant. I finally heated the surrounding area with an acetylene torch and still couldn't loosen them. That is until I used a Ridgid aluminum 36 inch pipe wrench. That was enough torque. One thing I did after removing the valves was to blow out rusty crud from inside the tanks. I took a piece of 1/4 inch copper tubing and bent it so that I could place it through the hole and direct high-pressure air around the inside of the tanks. I was amazed at the amount of rusty crud that came out the hole.

 

[kenn]

I replaced the three drain valves on my FLU419 and had a terrible time getting them loose. As mentioned, it was the sealant. I finally heated the surrounding area with an acetylene torch and still couldn't loosen them. That is until I used a Ridgid aluminum 36 inch pipe wrench. That was enough torque. One thing I did after removing the valves was to blow out rusty crud from inside the tanks. I took a piece of 1/4 inch copper tubing and bent it so that I could place it through the hole and direct high-pressure air around the inside of the tanks. I was amazed at the amount of rusty crud that came out the hole.

Thanks for the details! That's not very encouraging, lol. I only have propane so that's going to have to do. I do have a VERY large pipe wrench as well but my concern is literally ripping the end off and leaving a stub in the tank as that will surely end it right there...

 

[Mullaney]

Thanks for the details! That's not very encouraging, lol. I only have propane so that's going to have to do. I do have a VERY large pipe wrench as well but my concern is literally ripping the end off and leaving a stub in the tank as that will surely end it right there...

.
Sumpthin else you might try is a metric wrench. Shouldn't be metric, but tight fit - almost hammered onto the drain valve might work. Sometimes you can get a tighter fit with something like that...

Sometimes a few "love taps" with a hammer while you are pulling on the wrench will help break it free.

 

[ToddJK]

Thanks for the details! That's not very encouraging, lol. I only have propane so that's going to have to do. I do have a VERY large pipe wrench as well but my concern is literally ripping the end off and leaving a stub in the tank as that will surely end it right there...

If it does snap off and leaves the threads inside the tank, you'll have to get a set of those tools with reverse threads to insert and turn with an impact or crescent wrench. I can't remember what these are called, but that's how I got the piece of pipe out of my glad hand that snapped off (backing into a hill of dirt ).
I did the same on my brother in laws car, had a spark plug snap and the sleeve with the threads stayed in the spark plug hole. It was a nightmare to get out but with a crescent wrench and a two foot piece of pipe, it came out.

EDIT:
Screw extractors are what they are called and look like this for anyone who needs to see it...