Here We Go Again Low Voltage M1009

[jplace1011]

Truthfully you should not use post adapter on 3/8" threaded post batteries. You are asking for trouble anytime you drop size of battery cables and any connections. Plumbing rule is in effect. If you have a 3/8 Stud you get 3/8" current and amps. When the battery post is a solid post it has a solid connection and has not been reduced and expanded. Stick with solid post batteries on the CUCV unless you have altered to studded battery cable ends. Or NOT. But sticking with the tried and true always worked out better for me. Using the correct parts prevents what you have encountered. And if it were my CUCV I would have new cables made. They are inexpensive in comparison to all the work and damage bad cables and loose connections can cause. I had a battery explode under the hood of a CUCV about 10 years ago. It sounded like a shotgun blast and my picture perfect spotless engine was cover in battery acid and never looked the same again. Good Luck.

Final? Update:

I put another Rebuilt Alternator (from Hillbilly Wizard) In and things are still looking good Voltage wise: from both Batteries and from both Alternators. That double confirms that the First Rebuilt Alternator was bad.

Process of elimination at work!!

Thanks again!


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[jplace1011]

Final? Update:

I put another Rebuilt Alternator (from Hillbilly Wizard) In and things are still looking good Voltage wise: from both Batteries and from both Alternators. That double confirms that the First Rebuilt Alternator was bad.

Process of elimination at work!!

Thanks again!


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@Squibbly @Keith_J
This is unreal! I thought this issue was Over. The CUCV is clicking and struggling to start when I have left it overnight. It does seem to Start Fine if I drive it around a bit.

I tested both Batteries and Alternators both with the vehicle Off and with it Running.

Tests 8/6/22

Batteries

Off
Front Battery 12.59
Rear Battery 12.74
Combined 25.33

Running
Front Battery 13.88
Rear Battery 15.21
Combined 29.10

Alternators

Off
Drivers Side 12.59
Passengers Side 12.73

Running
Drivers Side 14.76
Passengers Side 14.71


Maybe the One Battery I didn’t replace, after my Arcing incident, needs to be replaced? The Front Battery was not replaced, but the Rear one was.

The other thought I’m having is, could it be my Starter or Starter Relay?? I do have a Dog Head Relay packed away. I’m not sure if the current Relay installed is the original. Pics of the Current One below.

Any thoughts? Thank you in advance.

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[Keith_J]

Odd that the battery voltage is higher than the alternator. Sounds like front battery ground or passenger alternator negative connection problem.

 

[Squibbly]

It's entirely possible that you have a parasitic drain on your battery from something. (Radio or Amplifier for example?)

This video will show you how to troubleshoot it. FYI, always start by pulling your radio fuse as the first fuse in this test.

 

[jplace1011]

It's entirely possible that you have a parasitic drain on your battery from something. (Radio or Amplifier for example?)

This video will show you how to troubleshoot it. FYI, always start by pulling your radio fuse as the first fuse in this test.

I’ll watch this Video and Test things.

The Negative Cable is Not attached to the infamous Power Inverter we dealt with before. Still, I’ll double check it. I’ll even wrap the end with a piece of tape.

But first I’ll check the Radio Fuse!!

Thank you!

 

[jplace1011]

I’ll watch this Video and Test things.

The Negative Cable is Not attached to the infamous Power Inverter we dealt with before. Still, I’ll double check it. I’ll even wrap the end with a piece of tape.

But first I’ll check the Radio Fuse!!

Thank you!

@ezgn @Squibbly @cucvrus

I went to the CUCV to move it to work on it. When I placed the key in to Start the usual Dash Lights turned on for half a second and then everything was off. It seems it’s all Off/Dead. I tried jumping it but still nothing turned over or no light lit up. I also checked all of the fuses under the steering wheel. I checked the battery connections as well.

I measured Both Batteries as well:

Engine Off

Rear Battery 12.67
Front Battery 12.61
Together 25.29

Any ideas? Maybe something blew/turned off, etc.??

**Update I did notice my Spotlight and KC Lights were still working. I went and checked all of the Fusible links and they seem good. I also checked the Positive and Negative Cables running to and from the Buss Bars. Things seem good.

I did notice I can turn the ignition quite a ways without the Key in it. So when I put the Key in the Dash Lights all came back on and it started.

So maybe my Ignition needs replaced?? Or could it possibly be the Starter Relay?


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[Mullaney]

@ezgn @Squibbly @cucvrus

I went to the CUCV to move it to work on it. When I placed the key in to Start the usual Dash Lights turned on for half a second and then everything was off. It seems it’s all Off/Dead. I tried jumping it but still nothing turned over or no light lit up. I also checked all of the fuses under the steering wheel. I checked the battery connections as well.

I measured Both Batteries as well:

Engine Off

Rear Battery 12.67
Front Battery 12.61
Together 25.29

Any ideas? Maybe something blew/turned off, etc.??

**Update I did notice my Spotlight and KC Lights were still working. I went and checked all of the Fusible links and they seem good. I also checked the Positive and Negative Cables running to and from the Buss Bars. Things seem good.

I did notice I can turn the ignition quite a ways without the Key in it. So when I put the Key in the Dash Lights all came back on and it started.

So maybe my Ignition needs replaced?? Or could it possibly be the Starter Relay?


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.
Voltages look good.
Sounds to me like the switch is bad.

 

[jplace1011]

.
Voltages look good.
Sounds to me like the switch is bad.

@Squibbly I disconnected the Neg. Cable from the Front Battery. I placed the Red Probe of the multimeter onto that cable and the Black Probe onto the Neg Post of the Front Battery. It read 12.61 Volts. I’m assuming that’s because it is hooked up to the Rear Battery.

I kept the Probes hooked up to the Front Battery. I then pulled each Fuse inside the Cab. No Volts dropped. I also pulled the Fuses for the Front KC Lights, the Rear KC Lights and the Power Inverter. Still no Voltage drop.

I don’t know if I did the Test properly. In the video he has a 12 volt system. I’m assuming maybe there’s no Power Parasite?

Maybe the Rough Clicky Start is a result of the Ignition being loose like a hooker??

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[Curtisje]

@ezgn @Squibbly @cucvrus

I went to the CUCV to move it to work on it. When I placed the key in to Start the usual Dash Lights turned on for half a second and then everything was off. It seems it’s all Off/Dead. I tried jumping it but still nothing turned over or no light lit up. I also checked all of the fuses under the steering wheel. I checked the battery connections as well.

I measured Both Batteries as well:

Engine Off

Rear Battery 12.67
Front Battery 12.61
Together 25.29

Any ideas? Maybe something blew/turned off, etc.??

**Update I did notice my Spotlight and KC Lights were still working. I went and checked all of the Fusible links and they seem good. I also checked the Positive and Negative Cables running to and from the Buss Bars. Things seem good.

I did notice I can turn the ignition quite a ways without the Key in it. So when I put the Key in the Dash Lights all came back on and it started.

So maybe my Ignition needs replaced?? Or could it possibly be the Starter Relay?


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I had a similar problem once. Discovered I was missing a ground wire from the frame to the firewall. I drove the truck for 2 years before the problem happened...one day it starts and drives...the next day no power at all but batteries are fine.

I used this post https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/cucv-electrical-ground-locations.120289/

 

[cucvrus]

I agree on the ground wire. Add another ground cable and try that. The ground from the right rear engine top to negative buss bar. Check all the grounds. Good Luck. And I know you did this. But starters do go bad and it helps to check how much amperage the starter is pulling when engaged. Changing the starter relay will do nothing. If you want to check that and see. Just jump across the relay plug. It will do the same thing.

 

[jplace1011]

I agree on the ground wire. Add another ground cable and try that. The ground from the right rear engine top to negative buss bar. Check all the grounds. Good Luck. And I know you did this. But starters do go bad and it helps to check how much amperage the starter is pulling when engaged. Changing the starter relay will do nothing. If you want to check that and see. Just jump across the relay plug. It will do the same thing.

The whole missing a wire from the Frame to the Firewall really has me intrigued. I will have to check that out. Maybe it’s missing, or damaged. I’ll look at the Diagrams, if I can’t find it I’ll have to come back here and bug you guys!

I know for sure there is a Ground Cable that runs from the Neg Buss Bar (behind the Rear Battery) to the Top of the Engine. I checked that before and even repaired and replaced the end/connection that goes to the Engine. Still I’ll double check that again.

Thank You Thank You for the input!! I appreciate you!


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[cucvrus]

Now have the starter checked for draw.

 

[jplace1011]

Now have the starter checked for draw.

@cucvrus Rick how do I check the starter for Draw? I’m still learning.


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[jplace1011]

@cucvrus Rick how do I check the starter for Draw? I’m still learning.


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I checked all 5 Grounds on the Neg. Buss Bar.

The Five go to:

The Negative Post of the Front Battery
The Neg Buss Bar in the Cab
The Front Utility Port
The Engine Block
The Small Black Wire runs to a harness under the Air Filter Area

All seem good. I did end up finding a small Chuck missing in the Black Cable running to the Engine Block, so I repaired it and reinstalled it. One end runs to the Engine the other end runs to the Firewall.

The only Ground Wire attached to the Frame, runs from the Frame up to the Back of the Passengers Side Headlight Area.

Is there supposed to be another one attached to the Frame and running somewhere else, to the Neg Buss Bar, to the Firewall, etc.?

I did notice there’s a Black Cable in this diagram running from the Neg Buss Bar to what could be a Ground? I didn’t see it in my vehicle. I traced the Cable with a Yellow Line and Black Circles, so as to see it more clearly.

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[Curtisje]

Not trying to beat a dead horse but here is my post with the details of the problem I had in case the story helps with your problem.

No Power (electrical) SOLVED

I got in my truck last week and turned the key to find no power whatsoever. I had driven it to work that morning and I was busy so I left it and went back to my office. Later on I went back to it, fiddled with the wires on the junction above the glow plug relay and it started so I drove it home...

steelsoldiers.com

 

[jplace1011]

Not trying to beat a dead horse but here is my post with the details of the problem I had in case the story helps with your problem.

No Power (electrical) SOLVED

I got in my truck last week and turned the key to find no power whatsoever. I had driven it to work that morning and I was busy so I left it and went back to my office. Later on I went back to it, fiddled with the wires on the junction above the glow plug relay and it started so I drove it home...

steelsoldiers.com

I will Read this for sure. Thank you!


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[jplace1011]

I will Read this for sure. Thank you!


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@Curtisje

It sounds like I should consider installing a New 2 Gauge Ground Cable to go from The Firewall Junction to the Frame?

What is the Firewall Junction? Is that just the Firewall Area?

For example there’s already a Cable connected to the Engine Block on one side and just screwed into the Firewall behind the Air Filter.

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[Squibbly]

@Squibbly I disconnected the Neg. Cable from the Front Battery. I placed the Red Probe of the multimeter onto that cable and the Black Probe onto the Neg Post of the Front Battery. It read 12.61 Volts. I’m assuming that’s because it is hooked up to the Rear Battery.

I kept the Probes hooked up to the Front Battery. I then pulled each Fuse inside the Cab. No Volts dropped. I also pulled the Fuses for the Front KC Lights, the Rear KC Lights and the Power Inverter. Still no Voltage drop.

I don’t know if I did the Test properly. In the video he has a 12 volt system. I’m assuming maybe there’s no Power Parasite?

Maybe the Rough Clicky Start is a result of the Ignition being loose like a hooker??

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If you're reading 12.6 volts between the disconnected negative cable and negative battery post then you haven't set up your multimeter correctly, because we need to see amperage not volts. Does your multimeter have an amperage setting?

The video I sent you shows what your multimeter should be set to. We are looking for an amperage draw when the key is turned off. If there is an amperage draw then you have a circuit drawing power when the key is off which shouldn't be happening.

Send a picture of the front of your multimeter if you don't know.

Here is a picture of what mine looks like when it is setup to read amperage. Notice the red cable had to be switched from the far right socket to the far left for the amp setting. If I had the meter set to 200m (milliamperes) I’d need to move the red cable one more over to the right.

By disconnecting the negative battery cable and putting one probe on the disconnected cable and the other probe on the battery terminal, you are essentially putting your multimeter in the circuit and reading if anything is sucking power. Make sure the key is off and all lights are off, doors are closed, etc.

DON'T do this with the key on or you will fu*k up your multimeter or at a minimum need to replace the fuse in it.

 

[jplace1011]

If you're reading 12.6 volts between the disconnected negative cable and negative battery post then you haven't set up your multimeter correctly, because we need to see amperage not volts. Does your multimeter have an amperage setting?

The video I sent you shows what your multimeter should be set to. We are looking for an amperage draw when the key is turned off. If there is an amperage draw then you have a circuit drawing power when the key is off which shouldn't be happening.

Send a picture of the front of your multimeter if you don't know.

Here is a picture of what mine looks like when it is setup to read amperage. Notice the red cable had to be switched from the far right socket to the far left for the amp setting. If I had the meter set to 200m (milliamperes) I’d need to move the red cable one more over to the right.

By disconnecting the negative battery cable and putting one probe on the disconnected cable and the other probe on the battery terminal, you are essentially putting your multimeter in the circuit and reading if anything is sucking power. Make sure the key is off and all lights are off, doors are closed, etc.

DON'T do this with the key on or you will fu*k up your multimeter or at a minimum need to replace the fuse in it.

Doooooohhh!!! Oh I feel silly!

I’m quite sure it Can read Amperage. I just got it, but I’ll figure it out. I’ll try that again and report back.

Thank you sir!!

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[Squibbly]

Doooooohhh!!! Oh I feel silly!

I’m quite sure it Can read Amperage. I just got it, but I’ll figure it out. I’ll try that again and report back.

Thank you sir!!

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No. That doesn't read amps.

Which is funny because the free ones you get from HF read up to 200mA (although I suspect it will probably cook with the wrong circuit activated on a CUCV).

Check to see if any of your friends have one, or ask the people at AutoZone or wherever you go if you can borrow theirs.

This one would have been better and cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/KAIWEETS-Multimeter-Digital-Voltmeter-Continuity/dp/B08CX9W7G3/ref=sr_1_6?crid=UCGMX9IBNDV&keywords=amp+multimeter&qid=1660140555&sprefix=amp+multimeter%2Caps%2C459&sr=8-6

If you really love ther "Fluke" brand get the 106. It reads current.