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Newbe with with mep005

Cowhunter

New member
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3
Location
California
Hello everyone I’m new to the site I have a Mep005a That has a couple of issues one being the batteries drain down unless I disconnect them I have traced it to I believe the alternator if I disconnect it then the drain seems to be gone But it does charge the batteries at a low rate while it is running. The second issue is the hertz meter is not working but using my tester I determine that it is setting at 60 When I isolate the phasers L2 to Lo is 60 L3 to Lo is 60 but L1 to Lo is very erratic it first register 60 then it jumps around and settles in in the 80 8590 range back-and-forth all three of the phases Measures 120 V steady single and when I measure any two I get 208 any comments and maybe this is not a problem I don’t really know if I can get this all sorted out my plan is to use it for back up for my home and have been looking into changing it to 240 single phase but I wanted to get the other issues taken care of before I tackle that
 

Guyfang

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Is this gen set new to you? Have you ever seen it run right? Have you all the TM's to troubleshoot and repair the gen set?

There is a blocking diode in the alternator that is bad. Very common fault for this alternator. If you feel like you can do that kinda of work, try it.

Have you looked at the troubleshooting guide for the hertz meter problem?
 

Cowhunter

New member
11
12
3
Location
California
Is this gen set new to you? Have you ever seen it run right? Have you all the TM's to troubleshoot and repair the gen set?

There is a blocking diode in the alternator that is bad. Very common fault for this alternator. If you feel like you can do that kinda of work, try it.

Have you looked at the troubleshooting guide for the hertz meter problem?
Thank you for the come back I purchased this generator about 20 years ago I used it in my construction business of building homes strung power poles behind the homes and used a generator until the power company was able to Furnish power. After I retired it sit for about 10 or 12 years I decided to get it out and set up my compound which consist of my home my workshop, Irrigation well and entrance gate With backup power for any possible outages. I put batteries in it looked it over a little bit tried to start no go. Went through the fuel system cleaned everything out tanks new filters reseal the injection pump with kit the plastic drive ring was gone. It started right up at that point but in the process the radiator got wiped out it needs new core But not wanting to spend a lot of money until I knew if it was going to make some power I patched radiator together enough that I could run it so that got me to the point where I was questioning the power output and the alternator issue. Today I went back into the pump I had put the lever on backwards So not getting full effect from the Governor spring OK that’s fixed. The watt converter had leaked a bunch of black glue out of it which went down and got on the Cross current compensation transformer and the wires that went through it I removed it cleaned all of the wires up in the transformer it’s self reinstalled now I am getting good ratings of 61 Hz From all three legs and 120 V from each leg individually or 208 across any of the hot ones but my hertz meter still does not work I did hook 120 from household to the AC input terminals of the transducer my meter still did not work and that’s where I’m at at this time
 

Guyfang

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I did hook 120 from household to the AC input terminals of the transducer my meter still did not work and that’s where I’m at at this time

The freq transducer is probably bad. Sadly, the TM tells you to just try another meter to check if the meter works. I will write someone I know and ask him if he can measure the out put of a good transducer. But I would almost bet its the transducer.
 

Guyfang

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I also found a transducer and meter in the big auction site for 149 dollars. According to the TM, the meter and transducer are a matched set. They should only be changed as a set. Its crap, as we did change them separately all the time. But at some point in time, the Army simply stopped stocking the separate parts, and you could only get it as a set. Look up the NSN 6625-00-003-0971
 

Cowhunter

New member
11
12
3
Location
California
I also found a transducer and meter in the big auction site for 149 dollars. According to the TM, the meter and transducer are a matched set. They should only be changed as a set. Its crap, as we did change them separately all the time. But at some point in time, the Army simply stopped stocking the separate parts, and you could only get it as a set. Look up the NSN 6625-00-003-0971
Yes I believe that’s my problem I took it off ,close examination the back of it doesn’t look right looks like it’s been hot I do have 120 V going to it while the GEN is running I could not measure anything coming out on the DC side. Thanks for your help I’ll post the results with a new one
 

Cowhunter

New member
11
12
3
Location
California
Yes I believe that’s my problem I took it off ,close examination the back of it doesn’t look right looks like it’s been hot I do have 120 V going to it while the GEN is running I could not measure anything coming out on the DC side. Thanks for your help I’ll post the results with a new one
OK I’m back I got my new transducer today installed it and still not getting a reading on the meter I do have 120 V going to it measuring the voltage out it’s 2.2 DC I don’t have any idea if that’s the correct amount and just another question I don’t think it matters which way you hook the 120v to the transducer pretty confident I got them on the way I took them off the other one
 

Guyfang

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Yeah, it matters what side is AC, (input) and what side is DC, (output). But the 120 doesn't matter how its hooked up to the input side. And the + and - from the transducer to the meter do also matter.
 

Cowhunter

New member
11
12
3
Location
California
Yeah, it matters what side is AC, (input) and what side is DC, (output). But the 120 doesn't matter how its hooked up to the input side. And the + and - from the transducer to the meter do also matter.
Well I had everything hooked up properly so at this point it appears that I am on the hunt for a new meter to go with the new transducer that I just purchased might be a little hard to find thank you for your help
 

Guyfang

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I think, and this is something from 30 years ago, and my memory is not what it used to be, but think the resistance of the meter is supposed to be 24 Kilo ohms.

So where did you get the transducer? There are two matched sets in fleebay. The meters stopped being issued separate from the transducer about 30 years ago. They might be very hard to fine separately.
 

Cowhunter

New member
11
12
3
Location
California
I think, and this is something from 30 years ago, and my memory is not what it used to be, but think the resistance of the meter is supposed to be 24 Kilo ohms.

So where did you get the transducer? There are two matched sets in fleebay. The meters stopped being issued separate from the transducer about 30 years ago. They might be very hard to fine separately.
I got this transducer off of eBay it was brand new as in never been installed and it was a perfect match for the one I removed there was three adjustments screws on the back of mine.the one on eBay only had the two adjustments on the back of the transducer And appeared to have three screws to attach leads going out also in the description they said it was for a 15 KW so I passed on it .So it looks like the old man has probably made another mistake sure wasn’t the first hopefully not my last that way I know I’m still alive! on Another note a fellow I know works for the water company and he is concerned about the quality of the power coming from the generator have an adverse affects on the electronics in the home That are controlling things like air-conditioning air handler’s and just about anything else that has a circuitboard in it I think he might be overreacting he tends to be that way what’s your thoughts
 

Guyfang

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The meters have always been hard to get. Back in the 70's we could get them without a problem. Then, because they are supposed to be matched set, the Army anyway, stopped procuring the meter and transducer separately. The reason they are a matched set is because the transducer/meter was hooked to 120 volts, and then the adjustment screw, (under the mounting plate) was adjusted to drive the meter for 60 hertz, spot on. That's crap, because anyone could have done that. Its a no brainer. But that's how it was. When we ordered the matched set, we always replaced the transducer first. If that fixed the problem, then we had a extra meter. The next set that had that problem, we simply held the extra meter against the meter in the set with the problem. If it worked, we replaced the meter. We always managed to use the extra parts. I would be interested to see close up pictures of the transducer you bought. Part numbers and such.

The power produced by these sets, is in the norm, very clean. Almost nothing I can think of in a house, is sensitive to minor power fluctuations, or hertz variances. For all that, the power from the power distribution net, is not all that stable or precise. If your friend is worried, have someone put an O-Scope on the power output and take a look see. I myself, would not ever worry about it. Every time we checked, there was no reason to look twice. We use these sets to power missile systems, radars, computers and other high tech things. Your friend is over reacting.

I saw two matched sets in flebay. One for 149.00, (6625-00-003-0971) and one for 159.00, (69-595) bucks.

Would also like to know what the ohms reading on a good meter is. Things like the 24 Kilo Ohms reading just popped into my head. I used to know all this stuff. But mucho water has flowed under the bridge since the 70's-90's.
 

Cowhunter

New member
11
12
3
Location
California
The meters have always been hard to get. Back in the 70's we could get them without a problem. Then, because they are supposed to be matched set, the Army anyway, stopped procuring the meter and transducer separately. The reason they are a matched set is because the transducer/meter was hooked to 120 volts, and then the adjustment screw, (under the mounting plate) was adjusted to drive the meter for 60 hertz, spot on. That's crap, because anyone could have done that. Its a no brainer. But that's how it was. When we ordered the matched set, we always replaced the transducer first. If that fixed the problem, then we had a extra meter. The next set that had that problem, we simply held the extra meter against the meter in the set with the problem. If it worked, we replaced the meter. We always managed to use the extra parts. I would be interested to see close up pictures of the transducer you bought. Part numbers and such.

The power produced by these sets, is in the norm, very clean. Almost nothing I can think of in a house, is sensitive to minor power fluctuations, or hertz variances. For all that, the power from the power distribution net, is not all that stable or precise. If your friend is worried, have someone put an O-Scope on the power output and take a look see. I myself, would not ever worry about it. Every time we checked, there was no reason to look twice. We use these sets to power missile systems, radars, computers and other high tech things. Your friend is over reacting.

I saw two matched sets in flebay. One for 149.00, (6625-00-003-0971) and one for 159.00, (69-595) bucks.

Would also like to know what the ohms reading on a good meter is. Things like the 24 Kilo Ohms reading just popped into my head. I used to know all this stuff. But mucho water has flowed under the bridge since the 70's-90's.
I I am going to attempt to post some pictures The first two are the new unit the second two is the unit I took out as you can see I was curious and I dug into the back of it the last two are of the existing meter I have
 

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Cowhunter

New member
11
12
3
Location
California
OK I’m back with an update I found hertz meter I bought it as a set of course the transducer was no good but I was fortunate enough that the other transducer that I had purchased worked with the meter just took a little tweaking on the balance screw to make it read proper also I purchased a new alternator off of eBay for 95 bucks fix that issue battery drain also for reasons I don’t know with the old alternator on the generator did not want to shut down properly all the time but with the new alternator it’s working perfect I did the conversion to 120 to 240 single phase timing was perfect Southern Cal Edison was doing maintenance for fire protection I was down eight hours no power but the old girl performed flawless ran my whole compound now I have to Tackle the radiator issue A local shop will recore it for 600 I haven’t looked for a good used one yet I’m thinking this is one area I don’t want to skimp on
 

Guyfang

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Take the old battery alternator apart. Of give it to someone who is into this sort of thing. There is a blocking diode in it, that goes bad, and then the battery's drain off, through the alternator.
 

Cowhunter

New member
11
12
3
Location
California
Same machine different issue, it’s my MEPO05 a have used a few times for power outage also have kept it exercised fairly regularly with no issues the other day I decided to give it a good run I loaded it down heavy in about 30 minutes it was overheating I shut it down discovered I seem to have oil in the radiator I let it set for three or four days drained a little oil out of it no water in the oil but I have oil in the coolant check the TMsTroubleshooting could not find anything relating to oil passing into the radiator can anybody shine some light on this and give me a starting point to look
 

Ray70

Well-known member
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Location
West greenwich/RI
Agreed, Hopefully head gasket, those are well known for needing the head gaskets changed. Got one here in my yard with leaking gasket, luckily it leaks down the side of the block, not into the oil.
I believe the new head gasket is an upgraded design from the original, due to the shortcomings of the original!
 
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