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AC Curciut interupter switch

Light in the Dark

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I've never experienced a bad switch in that location, in these machines. Not to say its not possible, but your time and money is better served by taking the roof off an deoxidizing/cleaning/disassembling the K1 AC Circuit Interrupter. That is where your problem is most likely to lie.
 

Light in the Dark

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thanx a lot. that helps.. i will do it. i wish you lived close. i would hire you to kinda check the whole machine out. it does run good tho
Steel Soldiers is the bridge that connects us all. I'm just some monkey that has managed to retain more about these sets than I have forgotten... thats nothing special :ROFLMAO:
 

Guyfang

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Like LID, I have never seen this switch go bad. Its about bomb proof. Take your time removing the CB, and take it apart. Its not rocket Science. Simple, really. Clean it up, blow it out. Reassemble it. DO, REPEAT DO, remove the Neg. Battery terminal on the left side. Control panel is always the back side, so when you stand behind, even I can find left.
 

zarathustra

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The first 802a I ever owned had an intermittent AC interruptor switch. Metered OK when unit was not running, but would fail once it got started (vibrating). That's a weird switch... I always think of it as two switches in one housing. What gave it away was that the indicator light would go on and then shut off. Turned the switch back on and in a few seconds light would go off again. New switch, worked well and that gen is sitting on dolly at the barn.
 

deherenman

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Texas
Circuit interrupter switch only seems to work when it is above 35 to 40°. Today I fired it up. I'm in North Texas. It was 25° wouldn't send power down to the lives and I've experienced this a couple of times before when it's super cold. But I've noticed about 40 to 45° and above no issue. Any suggestions? Not sure that would be a contact cleaner solution. Just thought it was odd behavior.
 

Light in the Dark

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If you have water in a contact system, and it freezes... you have a physical barrier that disappears when it becomes a conductive liquid again.

Sounds like further digging into the K1 with contact cleaner and a fine eye might be in your future. And see if there is any visible sign of water around it.
 

2Pbfeet

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I've had relays where the solenoid or the fulcrum was sticky, and as the relay cooled off they became stuck. Plus a couple that the contacts were micro welding themselves stuck intermittently (clean, polish and add a tiny film of conductive dielectric grease).

Not much to do besides replace or disassemble and try to clean/repair. I would not rule out poor contacts on the wires controlling the relay (e.g. poor crimps, loose screws, or corrosion on the terminals.

All the best,

2Pbfeet
 
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