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yes that is what I will need next. I found a complete mc with that plate but it was $845 or so.
I think I've decided how I'm going to go about it now. I was considering the air brake canister. But I'd have to really redo the air plumbing to do that. Also you really get into needing to separate tanks. Since I'm really only looking for a way to get better brakes, I'm going to go with the MC we bought, but mount it up on the firewall and hang a pedal. Then feed the outputs to the original airpack, as well as a second air pack. I know this is probably more expensive and more involved than the air brake can setup. But this keeps me having a "physical" connection to the brakes. Also in the event of a air failure, there would be a delay until that can reverted to "parked". Also this would mean that I still would have SOME brakes even without any air at all. (Meaning I can apply AND release them under my control) And honestly, this is more in tune with what the military did with the M35A2C's.
This would activate the trailer brakes, but unless I am missing something there would be no modulation of the trailer brake force applied. A light tap of the truck brakes would give full trailer brakes, wouldn't it? I thought the air pack had at least some ability to modulate the amount of trailer brake application based on the amount of brake pedal travel, but I will admit I am not an air pack expert.
That is what I thought as well. I mean, on tractors you also have the trailer brake control valve on the column to allow you to modulate the rear brakes. It just seems like full apply on any braking could lead to some unsafe trailering.
Mines at home waiting for me to get off work. Did you order the same part # I did?
Yes ! That is the type of valve I was talking about. There are several makes out there. Didn't know how much they cost though !
Yes, same one. But mine was in a very old napa united box. I think they went to the "tupperware" design reservoirs later on.
Since it's metal, is there the four mounting holes for the resv. to the MC body like mine? You could make a metal lid and secure it down with all thread all the way through maybe? (You'd need sealing washers on the inside of the resv). Or maybe just remove it completely and make a plate to bolt down to those 4 bolt holes and drill the ports and tap them NPT and make your own remote setup?
Good ideas. The rubber boot under the cap still seals well. Dorman responded to me saying they don't sell the cap separately but if I return the assembly I'll lose out on the good deal. I may also rig up some hose clamps to wrap around it for the short term, bigger issue for me will be modifying the A2 mc bracket.
