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Loss of all electrical power while driving

Riden8ked

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Ct
Good morning gents, so last night i had my family in the m1009 and we were all nice and warm cruising down the highway. Went to change lanes as cars were attempting to merge onto the highway and all of a sudden my headlights shut off, all the lights on my dash went out and the engine shut off. Was able to safely pull over to the right shoulder. Tried to start the truck, no electrical power. Checked the batteries, both were fine. All of a sudden power came back on, fired it up and i boogied home. It was a little unnerving with what happened but im not sure if its a really or loose connection somewhere.


My alternator is less than 2 years old. Its a 12v system with only one alternator. I have noticed issues with a slow drain somewhere, but i leave my truck on a battery tender.

I appreciate any input as im stumped
 

Barrman

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A sudden off and then back on for no apparent reason almost always points to a loose or corroded connection. I suggest you start with removing each battery terminal, cleaning it and putting it back on. Do both ends of all 4 battery wires. Use sand paper, scuff pads, nail files or just a screwdriver tip to clean every surface on the wire ends and where they touch.

Once you get to the Buss bars on the firewall. Take each and every connection on them apart, clean and tighten back up. More than likely, you will find a few connections that make you say “This is the problem.”

Just for fun though. Unbolt the thru the firewall connection with a 10 mm socket. Pull it apart and have a look at the contacts. GM used some kind of goo tar like substance in there. Verify that no arcing has taken place, no contacts are bent over and put it tightly back together.
 

Mullaney

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Good morning gents, so last night i had my family in the m1009 and we were all nice and warm cruising down the highway. Went to change lanes as cars were attempting to merge onto the highway and all of a sudden my headlights shut off, all the lights on my dash went out and the engine shut off. Was able to safely pull over to the right shoulder. Tried to start the truck, no electrical power. Checked the batteries, both were fine. All of a sudden power came back on, fired it up and i boogied home. It was a little unnerving with what happened but im not sure if its a really or loose connection somewhere.


My alternator is less than 2 years old. Its a 12v system with only one alternator. I have noticed issues with a slow drain somewhere, but i leave my truck on a battery tender.

I appreciate any input as im stumped
.
Along with @Barrman 's cleaning the connections, a tiny bit of Anti-Oxidant paste will help keep those connections clean over time.
 

MarkM

CODE BROWN...It's all going to sh~t !
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On all electrical connections I use Permatex copper never seize.

Obviously It's a great never seize but also helps prevent Galvanic corrosion (dissimilar-metal corrosion). This product is also a good electrical conductor and can handle high temps so it's a win win all the way around. Just my 02 cents.

Mark

84621XL.jpg
 

WWRD99

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York Pa
Good morning gents, so last night i had my family in the m1009 and we were all nice and warm cruising down the highway. Went to change lanes as cars were attempting to merge onto the highway and all of a sudden my headlights shut off, all the lights on my dash went out and the engine shut off. Was able to safely pull over to the right shoulder. Tried to start the truck, no electrical power. Checked the batteries, both were fine. All of a sudden power came back on, fired it up and i boogied home. It was a little unnerving with what happened but im not sure if its a really or loose connection somewhere.


My alternator is less than 2 years old. Its a 12v system with only one alternator. I have noticed issues with a slow drain somewhere, but i leave my truck on a battery tender.

I appreciate any input as im stumped
Sounds like you had 2 problems but if the lights just shut off like you hit the balckout switch then it could be the fuse melted in the box...30 amp...on the right side about in the middle....I've had all mine go bad to the point the metal fuse end fell out of the plastic fuse...I'd check and replace all the fuses in the box...or rusted some...the next thing I'd check is the ignition switch...if it's out or your key is loose it may be out of adjustment or the switch is bad...could be your switch is stuck on accessory killing the battery too.
 

Curtisje

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Check your grounds as well. This happened to me.


Good luck.
 

Riden8ked

New member
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19
3
Location
Ct
Sounds like you had 2 problems but if the lights just shut off like you hit the balckout switch then it could be the fuse melted in the box...30 amp...on the right side about in the middle....I've had all mine go bad to the point the metal fuse end fell out of the plastic fuse...I'd check and replace all the fuses in the box...or rusted some...the next thing I'd check is the ignition switch...if it's out or your key is loose it may be out of adjustment or the switch is bad...could be your switch is stuck on accessory killing the battery too.

Everything went out at the same time, lights all electrical and engine
 

Riden8ked

New member
21
19
3
Location
Ct
Thank you all, im going to tear into all the electrical connections today clean and paste them up with the proper electrical grease. Got up this morning to make a dump run, electrical volts at 9. No start as batteries were dead. Im going to get 2 new batteries as soon as i jump it
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
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Location
Rochester NY
Thank you all, im going to tear into all the electrical connections today clean and paste them up with the proper electrical grease. Got up this morning to make a dump run, electrical volts at 9. No start as batteries were dead. Im going to get 2 new batteries as soon as i jump it
Now would be a good time to start cleaning all those connections, seeing as everything blacked out at the same time, I'd pay special attention to the main battery cables.
 

WWRD99

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York Pa
Everything went out at the same time, lights all electrical and engine
That really does sound like the ignition switch. Can find out quick once you get it running tomorrow...once it is, remove the ground cable on the front battery and see if it shuts off...if the bad ground theory is valid, then it should shut off...which it shouldn't...low light output or slow or no engine turning over points to poor grounds and such, not complete shutdown. Battery drain can be from a alternator as well as a ignition switch with bad contacts or out of adjustment or just worn out.
 

Riden8ked

New member
21
19
3
Location
Ct
That really does sound like the ignition switch. Can find out quick once you get it running tomorrow...once it is, remove the ground cable on the front battery and see if it shuts off...if the bad ground theory is valid, then it should shut off...which it shouldn't...low light output or slow or no engine turning over points to poor grounds and such, not complete shutdown. Battery drain can be from a alternator as well as a ignition switch with bad contacts or out of adjustment or just worn out.
Thank you sir!! Ill try that also give you all updates when complete
 

Riden8ked

New member
21
19
3
Location
Ct
So yesterday i bought a new 12v battery, kept my old one and threw it on the charger. A buddy of mine told me if i didnt have a voltage meter on me to take a screwdriver and place it on the back of the alternator in the center while running and it should be magnetized. It was not. The truck when i bought it was converted to a 12v system and only the drivers side alternator is wired. It has an isolated ground to the intake manifold. The passenger side alternator is shot. If my alternator is bad can i just get a rebuild kit for it and would it be the same kit for a 24v system?
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
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690
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Location
Rochester NY
So yesterday i bought a new 12v battery, kept my old one and threw it on the charger. A buddy of mine told me if i didnt have a voltage meter on me to take a screwdriver and place it on the back of the alternator in the center while running and it should be magnetized. It was not. The truck when i bought it was converted to a 12v system and only the drivers side alternator is wired. It has an isolated ground to the intake manifold. The passenger side alternator is shot. If my alternator is bad can i just get a rebuild kit for it and would it be the same kit for a 24v system?
Yes and yes, same kit because all the Alt. are 12v. Well in most CUCV's the ambulance is different.
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
942
690
93
Location
Rochester NY
That really does sound like the ignition switch. Can find out quick once you get it running tomorrow...once it is, remove the ground cable on the front battery and see if it shuts off...if the bad ground theory is valid, then it should shut off...which it shouldn't...low light output or slow or no engine turning over points to poor grounds and such, not complete shutdown. Battery drain can be from a alternator as well as a ignition switch with bad contacts or out of adjustment or just worn out.
A bad Ign switch shouldn't have any effect on the headlights.
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
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Location
CT
When you start cleaning grounds, it is always a good idea to make sure the battery (or batteries) are disconnected. I did find that out the hard way (a DUH moment).

Where in CT are you?
 
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