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Please check my logic

Atchuuu

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I purchased a 100 amp kill switch from a boat place. After reading SS posts I’m thinking this is not robust enough and I need. 200 amp kill switch.

I plan to run a 24v to 12v converter off the ignition accessory switch using a 24v 50 amp relay. The converter is a 70 amp and will run a stereo, cab 4 speakers, phone charger and small amp.

My understanding is that the relay will allow the 24v ignition switch to provide the proper voltage to the converter without damaging the ignition.

Am I headed in the right direction? Any suggestions on the brand/type of relay? Do I need to add a diode to prevent back feeding the switch.

Last, I changed all glow plugs and was getting a blinking wait light. Truck was starting fine. Then it got cold and would not start. With new plugs installed I’m thinking it must be the ESS that needs replacing?
 

Mogman

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After you check the glow plugs put a volt meter on one and see what is happening.
Also disconnect your batteries for a while, sometimes that helps.
Low battery voltage could also be a problem, make sure they have a fresh charge and are in good condition.
 

Atchuuu

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After you check the glow plugs put a volt meter on one and see what is happening.
Also disconnect your batteries for a while, sometimes that helps.
Low battery voltage could also be a problem, make sure they have a fresh charge and are in good condition.
Batteries are fully charged and new. Truck starts right up when temp is warm.

Please explain what you men when you say “put a meter on one and see what is happening “.Are you suggesting something different than ohm checking?
 

Mogman

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After you ohm all the glow plugs, should be very low ohms, pierce the wire on one of the glow plug wires with a volt meter, cycle the run switch and see what happens...
 

Coug

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you're checking to see what voltage you have at the glow plugs, and how long they get that voltage, then what happens afterwards when you turn the start switch to "run"
 
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