First HMMWV, is there something I should replace before hitting the trails?

[Mogman]

It is an eclectic mix of SAE and metric.
It is just called "switch" figure 46 in TM 9-2320-280-24P-1
You can search for oil filter and the transmission filter is in fig 104 in the same parts TM (3 speed) or 105 (4 speed)

 

[blutow]

Just sucks buying tires when they end up costing half the price of the truck.

If these trucks didn't need a bunch of stuff, they wouldn't be so cheap....

For most auction trucks, just assume tires, batteries, CDR valve and hose, all fluids/filters. The exception to this might be very recent rebuilds (I've seen some 2018 rebuilds, but they typically go for big $'s). And I'd never drive a "new to me" hummvee on the road without doing a spindle nut service (unless I'm buying from a very trusted source). Once you get the truck, there will likely be some additional things that need attention. Mine needed a couple seat belt retractors, a washer fluid pump, mirrors, wiper blades, and a quick connect hydraulic fitting that was leaking. Pretty minor stuff in the grand scheme. Somewhat common big ticket items are things like injection pumps and start boxes. With an auction truck, you could end up with a bad motor, transmission, or other major component, but I think those are pretty uncommon failures with trucks listed as runners. Again, there is a reason these auction trucks are so cheap, it's a crap shoot at the end of the day.

Beyond all that, you have a decision about how proactive you want to be about preventative stuff. It really comes down to how reliable you are trying to make the vehicle. If you are fine fixing things as they break and that's not a big deal for how you are using the truck, just be reactive as issues pop up. For me, I went ahead and replaced all hoses, belts, etc. because my truck had been sitting for 12 years in the desert and I didn't want to be stranded by a busted hose or belt that had dried out. I also replaced the lift pump which seems to be a common point of failure and it's relatively cheap. Some preventative stuff is just labor and doesn't require parts. After cleaning, the first thing I'd do on any auction truck (and most private party trucks) is go through every ground attachment point on the truck and clean them.

 

[thoner7]

It is an eclectic mix of SAE and metric.
It is just called "switch" figure 46 in TM 9-2320-280-24P-1
You can search for oil filter and the transmission filter is in fig 104 in the same parts TM (3 speed) or 105 (4 speed)

ok- I was in TB-9-2320-335-13&P. Parts manual for the 11xx trucks.
Is that book just an add on to the other parts TMs??

Basically - which ones should i download to my computer so I can “find on page” what I need in PDF form?!?!? I have the 3 volumes on unit maintenance, the 11xx series specific parts manual, and just downloaded the parts manuals 1 and 2, The 24-1 technical manual, and one for up-armpit that ends 387-10. All together about ten million pages lol

I also haven’t found the intervals for the fluids. All I see is 3000 miles and/or 6 months. Which makes sense for engine oil. But transmission? Portal boxes? Diffs!?

 

[T9000]

ok- I was in TB-9-2320-335-13&P. Parts manual for the 11xx trucks.
Is that book just an add on to the other parts TMs??

Basically - which ones should i download to my computer so I can “find on page” what I need in PDF form?!?!? I have the 3 volumes on unit maintenance, the 11xx series specific parts manual, and just downloaded the parts manuals 1 and 2, The 24-1 technical manual, and one for up-armpit that ends 387-10. All together about ten million pages lol

I also haven’t found the intervals for the fluids. All I see is 3000 miles and/or 6 months. Which makes sense for engine oil. But transmission? Portal boxes? Diffs!?

I use a combination of TMs plus the H1 maintenance info, which has some of the intervals clearly specified:



Here is a link to the whole manual (there may newer revisions available):

https://www.4x4us.net/documents/hummer_h1_manuel_utilisateur.pdf

Some of the capacities may not be correct for the ECV and REV trucks with larger cooling systems.

I did a lot of research and personally use all synthetics, Rotella T6 for engine, Castrol for transmission and Lucas in particular for the geared fan, geared hubs and differentials because it maintains highest viscosity at higher temp while still having high flow at lowest temperatures (you can check the spec sheets)
The only dino-oil is for the transfer case, where I use AC Delco from the GM dealer, as there seems to be some issues if deviating from it (there are some articles about it). Also on the forum there is a great thread about the least corrosive coolant.

 

[T9000]

I have a separate question and didn’t want to create a new thread for it…does anyone know where the cabin fan blower (on passenger side) circuit breaker is physically located? I found it on the schematic (it’s on page 2 or 3) but not on the parts list under that name (I don’t recall the exact name, but it’s not like CB1 or another number, it has a name instead). I am talking about a REV truck and presume that’s the same on ECVs and maybe others.

 

[thoner7]

It is an eclectic mix of SAE and metric.
It is just called "switch" figure 46 in TM 9-2320-280-24P-1
You can search for oil filter and the transmission filter is in fig 104 in the same parts TM (3 speed) or 105 (4 speed)

All these filters should be right at my local auto parts store right? There’s not some magic to a military filter or gasket that I need special?
Asking because I’m a noob.

 

[Mogman]

The engine and transmission filters can be obtained locally, IIRC the fuel filter is not, look to a vendor like Kascar for that.

 

[Mogman]

Replacing the fuel filter immediately is a must do.
https://real4wd.com/product/filter-fuel-hmmwv/
You should change all fluids and filters, you have no idea what was used correct or not before you took possession of your truck, not to mention it has sat for years, you have no idea if it had been taken fording and then not completely serviced, again assume nothing check everything.
Also the gear hubs for example only hold about 1 pint of gear oil, failing to completely service your truck before "hitting" the trails can cost you mucho dinero.

 

[Coug]

All these filters should be right at my local auto parts store right? There’s not some magic to a military filter or gasket that I need special?
Asking because I’m a noob.

this page has a pretty good list of filters for the H1. Most of them are the same as the HMMWV (except the fuel filter as mentioned above)

Parts List - Filters

 

[springer1981]

I have a separate question and didn’t want to create a new thread for it…does anyone know where the cabin fan blower (on passenger side) circuit breaker is physically located? I found it on the schematic (it’s on page 2 or 3) but not on the parts list under that name (I don’t recall the exact name, but it’s not like CB1 or another number, it has a name instead). I am talking about a REV truck and presume that’s the same on ECVs and maybe others.

To the best of my knowledge they are all located in the same place, behind the gauge cluster on the dash. They are self resetting circuit breakers. Mounted to the firewall, black, have 2 wires that plug into them.

 

[T9000]

To the best of my knowledge they are all located in the same place, behind the gauge cluster on the dash. They are self resetting circuit breakers. Mounted to the firewall, black, have 2 wires that plug into them.

I was hoping is one of those, thank you!

 

[T9000]

To the best of my knowledge they are all located in the same place, behind the gauge cluster on the dash. They are self resetting circuit breakers. Mounted to the firewall, black, have 2 wires that plug into them.

Found one more, #3 in the blower unit:



EDIT: Removed one other conversation, which was included by mistake.

 

[thoner7]

I use a combination of TMs plus the H1 maintenance info, which has some of the intervals clearly specified:

View attachment 889381

Here is a link to the whole manual (there may newer revisions available):

https://www.4x4us.net/documents/hummer_h1_manuel_utilisateur.pdf

Some of the capacities may not be correct for the ECV and REV trucks with larger cooling systems.

I did a lot of research and personally use all synthetics, Rotella T6 for engine, Castrol for transmission and Lucas in particular for the geared fan, geared hubs and differentials because it maintains highest viscosity at higher temp while still having high flow at lowest temperatures (you can check the spec sheets)
The only dino-oil is for the transfer case, where I use AC Delco from the GM dealer, as there seems to be some issues if deviating from it (there are some articles about it). Also on the forum there is a great thread about the least corrosive coolant.

Wow - transmission fluuid, diff, transfer case, every 12,000 miles!?! thats excessive!

 

[T9000]

Wow - transmission fluuid, diff, transfer case, every 12,000 miles!?! thats excessive!

I agree, especially with synthetics, maybe should be closer to 36k or 48k miles?

 

[Mullaney]

I agree, especially with synthetics, maybe should be closer to 36k or 48k miles?

.
Most of these pieces of Green Iron get way less mileage than a regular passenger vehicle. If you don't drive it a lot, oil changes should be attended to more frequently to make sure that you don't gather condensate in your lube oil. If you get the motor and gearboxes hot (warm?) enough to dry out the water - might not be a problem - but oil is cheaper than buying parts...