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Frozen Cannon Plug On PROTECTIVE CONTROL BOX

WhoMe08721

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Hey Guys,

Is there any trick to remove Cannon Plug on protective control box Under hood by windshield wiper fluid. My plug is corrode and frozen pretty bad. I have been spraying it down with penetrate oil for the last 2 days. I have tried channel locks and vise grip but no luck. I have also tried heating it from a heat gun cause I was scarred to melt the inside with a torch. Was thinking of trying a Jeweler's mini torch. But need to watch the heat and take my time trying not to melt anything inside Cannon Plug.

Cannon Plug.JPG
 

Ajax MD

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Just keep working it with penetrant and channel locks gently.

If all else fails, try to hit the threaded ring with a dremel and cut it on opposite sides. It'll break off and you can unplug it.
Then order a new, empty canon plug and de-pin the old one and transfer the individual wires to the new one.
 

Bulldogger

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I look forward to hearing of a source. I tried everything but a Dremel a couple years ago and am just praying I never have a need to remove my cannon plug, cause it ain't moving. BDGR
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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For all reading this thread… Anti-seize as soon as you accept delivery of your rig!

Also ensure you’re twisting the ring in the correct direction after liberal use of penetrating oil.

I don’t recommend heat.
 

WhoMe08721

Active member
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Bayville/NJ
So I finally got the canon plug off. I cut a PVC pipe in half and place one half of the PVC pipe on both side of the canon plug. Using a small clamp to hold the PVC pipe back together and using model clay to seal the bottom. Then I filled it up with penetrate oil all day yesterday and last night and today the canon plug turned right off. Did not brake any thing;)
 

TNDRIVER

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So I finally got the canon plug off. I cut a PVC pipe in half and place one half of the PVC pipe on both side of the canon plug. Using a small clamp to hold the PVC pipe back together and using model clay to seal the bottom. Then I filled it up with penetrate oil all day yesterday and last night and today the canon plug turned right off. Did not brake any thing;)
THANK YOU......... some really bright people on this site. I'm not one of them. I don't believe I would have ever thought of flooding the thing like that. THANKS again, follow ups are what educates everyone!
 

Milcommoguy

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Rosamond, CA
There are also special canon plug pliers, just for this kind of thing. They look like water pump pliers, but have rubber pads on them. The long arms, give you extra UMPF when turning the C-Plug. But have to admit, WHOME came up with an outstanding idea!
From the story, I don't think these would have work.
Rubber nut cracker, CAMO IMG_1354.jpg
 

Guyfang

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I have a set like that, and a set with hard plastic pads. The handle gives you lots of torque, when turning the plug. But yes, you could very well be right. That's why I liked the old style C-Plugs. We had special wrenches. Called spanner wrenches in the army, adjustable hook wrenches to the civilian world. The plugs had indentations or "ears" for the wrench to grab a hold of. Anyone who has used one, has the scars to prove it.

1675853969138.png
 

87cr250r

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Rodeo, Ca
For all reading this thread… Anti-seize as soon as you accept delivery of your rig!

Also ensure you’re twisting the ring in the correct direction after liberal use of penetrating oil.

I don’t recommend heat.

Not anti-seize. That stuff is a thread lubricant to prevent galling during tightening. It has poor corrosion protection once it's base oils evaporate away. Much better to use a silicone or Teflon based grease. Dielectric grease is most common for silicone, I use Dow Corning Molykote 111, it's a better deal when you need a lot. Tef-Gel is popular for Teflon. Krytox is another option but gets way out there on price.
 

mgFray

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I've used canon plugs in other industries in the past. The main thing is periodically you need to crack them open, and dielectric grease the contacts inside. (We used to do it in video production van every 9-18 months depending on schedules, etc.). But I've not really worked with ones that were seized completely.. just 'crusty', and so by doing this yearly were able to keep crusty from becoming seized.

(Note in the case of this box, always unplug the battery BEFORE trying to remove any of those plugs so you don't short anything!)

Another tip for anyone who hasn't worked with them before. Generally you need to either push down a bit or pull up a bit on the body of the connector before the ring will turn.. as you turn the ring, repeat the push/pull or it will bind and the ring takes all of the pressure of inserting/removing the connector.. but the ring itself should turn easily when not bound up.
 

m1010plowboy

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So I finally got the canon plug off. I cut a PVC pipe in half and place one half of the PVC pipe on both side of the canon plug. Using a small clamp to hold the PVC pipe back together and using model clay to seal the bottom. Then I filled it up with penetrate oil all day yesterday and last night and today the canon plug turned right off. Did not brake any thing;)
Let's bump this up and make it big. The craft stores are going to see a bunch of 250lb guys in greasy, camo coveralls running in looking for modelling clay. Lots of applications for this brilliant idea. Thank you.
 
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