loosegravel
Just a retired mechanic who's having fun!
- 504
- 890
- 93
- Location
- Enumclaw, Washington
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I know! I tried to Google that kit number, but nothing comes up. I actually ordered a new connecting rod and the “valve cap” from someone else because I didn’t know that they’d be in this kit. I’ll just return them.Wow, what a deal! Essentially you paid for the injector and got 30 additional OEM parts for free! Can't beat that price!
The PMA is the Permanent Magnet Alternator (AKA the thing attached to the engine). You want to measure voltage between terminals A&B on the controller. The hand knob is setting the RPM "floor", so you want to move it towards 'start' to raise the no-load RPM, or toward 'stop' to lower RPM. The upper screw with locknut sets the highest you can lock the hand knob at, farther in = lower manx RPM floor.Step 1 of the speed/load controller GAC says to adjust the speed pot on the governor control to obtain a PMA voltage of approximately 178 +/- 2vac. I’m not sure what PMA is or where to measure it.
Very cool. Thanks for the help. Now that I know where to measure the PMA voltage I should be able to proceed here. I still don’t know if Im supposed to set the no load on the manual start knob fist though. I’ll try that. Thanks again!The PMA is the Permanent Magnet Alternator (AKA the thing attached to the engine). You want to measure voltage between terminals A&B on the controller. The hand knob is setting the RPM "floor", so you want to move it towards 'start' to raise the no-load RPM, or toward 'stop' to lower RPM. The upper screw with locknut sets the highest you can lock the hand knob at, farther in = lower manx RPM floor.
I haven't had the joy of trying to make one of the GAC controllers work, but I can say I'm very happy mine had one of Kurt's controllers in it already. Just set that and the magnet gap, and with his you're good to go...
Thanks Kurt!The two circled terminals are where you measure the PMA voltage.
View attachment 890903
Excellent! Thanks my friend!Wiring diagrams are at the veerrrrrrry end of the TM... which I learned while trying to thumb through it on my phone one evening in the cold.
Ok, thanks Kurt. I’m going to see if I can find the schematics it the back of the TM like fb4 said. I’m sure that it’s a simple problem.Correct. The HT switch in the back of the block is a NO switch.
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