• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

White smoke at idle and driving.

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
8,523
2,710
113
Location
Monrovia, Ca.
Injector has been replaced. The smoking isn’t nearly as bad but it’s still there at idle and noticeable above idle but not as bad as before. Next I figure compression testing is in order. I am thinking maybe the stuck injector damaged that cylinder.
Smoke is still there because it hasn't been worked. Drive it like you stole it and it will clear. Yes, the injector, if stuck open, it is a pintle type, so that would be a broken spring issue, will cause "smoke" to come out of the intake because the fuel is still sorta atomizing and when the intake valve opens, the vapor comes back through the open valve.

If it is idling smooth, not rattling more than usual, run it to clear it out. The manifold, pipe and muffler are filled with raw diesel gas.
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,885
9,533
113
Location
Papalote, TX
Injector has been replaced. The smoking isn’t nearly as bad but it’s still there at idle and noticeable above idle but not as bad as before. Next I figure compression testing is in order. I am thinking maybe the stuck injector damaged that cylinder.
How does it sound??? any more "knocking"?
If it seems to run OK I would definitely put some hours on it first, for one thing your entire exhaust system is saturated with diesel it will take time and being run at speed to cook it all out.
Sounds like you are making progress.
 

MarkM

CODE BROWN...It's all going to sh~t !
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,074
1,954
113
Location
WOBURN. MA.
If you timing retard system is working the motor will be louder and rougher on startup. After a few min all of a sudden the motor will get smoother and quieter. It's all in the timing.

Mark
 

flyn2low737

Member
34
22
8
Location
Houston
Smoke is still there because it hasn't been worked. Drive it like you stole it and it will clear. Yes, the injector, if stuck open, it is a pintle type, so that would be a broken spring issue, will cause "smoke" to come out of the intake because the fuel is still sorta atomizing and when the intake valve opens, the vapor comes back through the open valve.

If it is idling smooth, not rattling more than usual, run it to clear it out. The manifold, pipe and muffler are filled with raw diesel gas.
Still has a sort of stumble almost like an intermittent missfire. It is very intermittent
 

flyn2low737

Member
34
22
8
Location
Houston
How does it sound??? any more "knocking"?
If it seems to run OK I would definitely put some hours on it first, for one thing your entire exhaust system is saturated with diesel it will take time and being run at speed to cook it all out.
Sounds like you are making progress.
Sounds like there is an intermittent misfire. I rechecked all the injectors and they are all working now where as before not so much.
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
8,523
2,710
113
Location
Monrovia, Ca.
Sounds like there is an intermittent misfire. I rechecked all the injectors and they are all working now where as before not so much.
In the case of a stuck open injector, cylinder compression can be pushed back into the fuel system through the nozzle due to the pintle not seating. Your intermittent stumble COULD be air trying to work it's way out, especially if it has just been idled. Again, run it hard and see if it clears up.
 

mccullek

Well-known member
196
288
63
Location
Oxford MS
In the case of a stuck open injector, cylinder compression can be pushed back into the fuel system through the nozzle due to the pintle not seating. Your intermittent stumble COULD be air trying to work it's way out, especially if it has just been idled. Again, run it hard and see if it clears up.
The white smoke is usually from unburned diesel. As suggested, run it a bit. If the unit was sitting a long time, the rings often need to get some work before things reseat properly. I had a bit of blowback on mine when first started but after running it a bit, that cleared up for me.
 

flyn2low737

Member
34
22
8
Location
Houston
Tightened up, fired up and smoked out the neighborhood on the way out to the national forest. After about 10 minutes full throttle at varying intervals the majority of the smoke is gone. Still get a puff every once in a bit but much improved. Now onto my original problem of the AC system before all this began. I will report back as the system totally clears but for now looks to be a stuck injector and air pushed back into the injection system. Thanks to all for the advice and direction!!!!
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
8,523
2,710
113
Location
Monrovia, Ca.
Glad things are better. A/C, can't help. If when the cool button is pressed and no cool, off to someone else!
 

flyn2low737

Member
34
22
8
Location
Houston
Ok update. I have compression checked the passenger side head of the block as I was still getting smoking out the tail pipe and an intermittent misfire. The pressures were measured starting at the passenger side front of the head nearest the fan:
500
320
450
480
The 320 psi has me concerned as that is also the cylinder that had the injector stuck open. I will compression check the driver side tomorrow. Any guidance or should I look at a rebuild?
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,885
9,533
113
Location
Papalote, TX
Ok update. I have compression checked the passenger side head of the block as I was still getting smoking out the tail pipe and an intermittent misfire. The pressures were measured starting at the passenger side front of the head nearest the fan:
500
320
450
480
The 320 psi has me concerned as that is also the cylinder that had the injector stuck open. I will compression check the driver side tomorrow. Any guidance or should I look at a rebuild?
Again, I would put some HOURS under LOAD before I would do anything, you might just need to re-seat the rings after having all the oil washed off the cylinder walls.
You are not going to cause any more damage.
 

MarkM

CODE BROWN...It's all going to sh~t !
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,074
1,954
113
Location
WOBURN. MA.
Again, I would put some HOURS under LOAD before I would do anything, you might just need to re-seat the rings after having all the oil washed off the cylinder walls.
You are not going to cause any more damage.

Yes like he said. Sometimes you need to beat the hell out of an engine to clear issues up.

Mark
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,885
9,533
113
Location
Papalote, TX
If it were me I would put 500-1000 miles on it while attending to the many other issues you will have before going back to the engine.
This is assuming you have already changed all the filters and oil.
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
8,523
2,710
113
Location
Monrovia, Ca.
Yup, as stated above, run it and see how things go. The multi does not like to just be started and let idle, putt around. It LIKES to be rode hard. Valve lash can cause compression numbers to be all over the place. If the engine has been idled, things gum up. Run it, maybe do a valve set after 500 or so miles. The compression test will not tell you the in-cylinder issue. A leak down or blow-by check is needed before you go throwing things at it or assuming a rebuild is in order.
 

flyn2low737

Member
34
22
8
Location
Houston
Yup, as stated above, run it and see how things go. The multi does not like to just be started and let idle, putt around. It LIKES to be rode hard. Valve lash can cause compression numbers to be all over the place. If the engine has been idled, things gum up. Run it, maybe do a valve set after 500 or so miles. The compression test will not tell you the in-cylinder issue. A leak down or blow-by check is needed before you go throwing things at it or assuming a rebuild is in order.
Will do. I will get it out and beat up on it right after I get my AC parts in. High of 82 today. You mentioned a valve set I’m not familiar with that procedure?
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,885
9,533
113
Location
Papalote, TX
Will do. I will get it out and beat up on it right after I get my AC parts in. High of 82 today. You mentioned a valve set I’m not familiar with that procedure?
I believe he was talking about a multi fuel engine, the 6.5L has hydraulic valve lifters and there is no adjustment.
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,885
9,533
113
Location
Papalote, TX
I would highly recommend doing all the maint described in the TMs, change all the fluids, the reduction hubs for example only have a few ounces of gear oil in them, neglecting those as well as other items can cost you dearly in the end and you have no history to go on so you have to start at the beginning and service it from end to end, check that everything is properly secured like the steering components and the half shafts, many times parts are swapped out with no regard to proper installation.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks