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Adding an in cab inverter to my M1083 A1, electrical wiring questions

serpico760

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I picked up this victron Phoenix 24 volt inverter with 250 Watts for a really good deal on eBay and plan to install it in the cab of my FMTV to run some power outlets for laptops, etc from. The question is where would be the good place to source the 24 volts and also it has a switch that can be used for remote switching. Should I get that from the dash master power switch via a relay? Should I get it's 24V input lines directly from the batteries, from that battery protection module under the spare tire, or from the electronics panel under the passenger dashboard? I plan to Mount it behind the driver's seat on the floor. I already tested that in the rear most position the seat won't hit it and there's plenty of ventilation from a few different sides.
IMG_20230418_103803.jpgIMG_20230418_103844.jpg
 

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GeneralDisorder

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It's only 10.4 amps.... call it 12 amps with efficiency losses. This should be no problem for the wiring already running to the 24v ignition relay under the PDP. Run it with 14 AWG wire and a 20 amp fuse.
 

Ronmar

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Well its only 250W or ~10A@24V, You could probably get it from under the power panel. You could probably sample it from the 24V ign point on the power panel with no issue. Then it would be available when ign was on.

You could also draw power from the 24v batt terminal on the power panel and also use a remote sw, so it would be available without powering on all the IGN circuits...

I think the remote used on the victrons is looking for a contact closure so a simple sw could control its on/off function remotely. If i only wanted it on with ign then i would simply power it ftom the ign connection point(bolt) on the power panel and put a jumper wire across the remote sw terminals on the inverter...
 

serpico760

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Well its only 250W or ~10A@24V, You could probably get it from under the power panel. You could probably sample it from the 24V ign point on the power panel with no issue. Then it would be available when ign was on.

You could also draw power from the 24v batt terminal on the power panel and also use a remote sw, so it would be available without powering on all the IGN circuits...

I think the remote used on the victrons is looking for a contact closure so a simple sw could control its on/off function remotely. If i only wanted it on with ign then i would simply power it ftom the ign connection point(bolt) on the power panel and put a jumper wire across the remote sw terminals on the inverter...
Yes as default the victron just has a jumper so you can put a switch on there or a relay controlled by your ignition. So I think then I will power from the power panel and put it inline fuse on it as well. One failing of the victron design is that it's internal fuse is not accessible from the outside. Not only that to take the fuse out you have to unmount the inverter, remove four screws from underneath of it, and reach down into the front edge with needle nose pliers to take out the blade fuse. With a slight bit more of ingenuity they could have had the fuse accessible right from the same surface that the wires connect to so you wouldn't have to disassemble the thing to change it!IMG_20230418_100603.jpgIMG_20230418_100613.jpg
 

coachgeo

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Yes as default the victron just has a jumper so you can put a switch on there or a relay controlled by your ignition. So I think then I will power from the power panel and put it inline fuse on it as well. One failing of the victron design is that it's internal fuse is not accessible from the outside. Not only that to take the fuse out you have to unmount the inverter, remove four screws from underneath of it, and reach down into the front edge with needle nose pliers to take out the blade fuse. With a slight bit more of ingenuity they could have had the fuse accessible right from the same surface that the wires connect to so you wouldn't have to disassemble the thing to change it!View attachment 895551View attachment 895552
use hole drill to put a hole in the top of the case big enough for 1. tweesers or loooong needle nose that can reach and yank the fuse and 2. fits a ready made removable plug from??? McMaster Carr orr?? 3. or maybe cut it as a door and hinge the opening? Duct tape over any of these to keep dust out?
 
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HighDollarHooker

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If you plan on putting a dash switch for use while ignition is off, consider a simple relay circuit like this. If you use a center off SPDT switch it will allow you to have it operate with ignition, operate manually, or be completely off. For it to work properly the inverter +24v would have to be connected to a battery source rather than an ignition source. Fairly inexpensive and much more flexible in terms of usability.
 

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Mavcaster

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Yes as default the victron just has a jumper so you can put a switch on there or a relay controlled by your ignition. So I think then I will power from the power panel and put it inline fuse on it as well. One failing of the victron design is that it's internal fuse is not accessible from the outside. Not only that to take the fuse out you have to unmount the inverter, remove four screws from underneath of it, and reach down into the front edge with needle nose pliers to take out the blade fuse. With a slight bit more of ingenuity they could have had the fuse accessible right from the same surface that the wires connect to so you wouldn't have to disassemble the thing to change it!View attachment 895551View attachment 895552
Could you use something like this Maxi fuse extender to get the fuse to a more accessible location?

 

Mullaney

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I picked up this victron Phoenix 24 volt inverter with 250 Watts for a really good deal on eBay and plan to install it in the cab of my FMTV to run some power outlets for laptops, etc from. The question is where would be the good place to source the 24 volts and also it has a switch that can be used for remote switching. Should I get that from the dash master power switch via a relay? Should I get it's 24V input lines directly from the batteries, from that battery protection module under the spare tire, or from the electronics panel under the passenger dashboard? I plan to Mount it behind the driver's seat on the floor. I already tested that in the rear most position the seat won't hit it and there's plenty of ventilation from a few different sides.
View attachment 895534View attachment 895535
.
Here is my electrical "plumbing" for the inverter in my M1088.
Pictures are easier than a lot of talking...

Alternator.jpgCircuit Breaker.jpegInverter.jpg
 

GeneralDisorder

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I note on internal fuses, inverters like this are usually current limited and aren't capable of blowing their internal fuse. The internal fuse is there to disable the inverter in the event of a hardware failure such as a shorted transistor.
Exactly. And a 14 AWG with a 20a fuse supply will blow the supply fuse before the internal 30a.

It's a non issue in my opinion and I wouldn't bother moving it off the board.
 

coachgeo

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Here is my electrical "plumbing" for the inverter in my M1088.
Pictures are easier than a lot of talking...

View attachment 895591View attachment 895592
what is relevancy of first pic? looks like an alternator? In the second pic... is that 100amp breaker near the rifle mount in the cab? Cant read the few words graphically put in the pic. back wall like the inverter? what wires are on it?

Thanks
 

87cr250r

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Exactly. And a 14 AWG with a 20a fuse supply will blow the supply fuse before the internal 30a.

It's a non issue in my opinion and I wouldn't bother moving it off the board.
I went through this with a Blue Sea Battery charger recently. It charged the batteries just fine but popped the internal fuse when I tried to start the engine. The charger tried to drive the starter. I contacted Blue Sea and they explained that shouldn't have happened and there was an updated version of that charger which they shipped out immediately. I assume there was a fault within the original charger that caused the failure. Oh well, they did me good in the end and the new charger is buzzing away.

Funny note, the new charger was 40 amp and the dead one was 25. I said I didn't want the 40 because I already mounted wires the 25. Turns out the 40 has the same footprint and can be programmed to limit to 25 so I didn't have to rewire anything.
 

Ronmar

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what is relevancy of first pic? looks like an alternator? In the second pic... is that 100amp breaker near the rifle mount in the cab? Cant read the few words graphically put in the pic. back wall like the inverter? what wires are on it?

Thanks
I think it shows his large gauge wire run for the inverter. Thats a 4KW inverter, needs BEEEG cables:)
 
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