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You might want to leak test the other tank before installing it unless you know it is good.
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MEP 802A Fix-up Thread 3.0
- Thread starter CallMeColt
- Start date
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If I remember correctly, the tank can't really just be slid out due to the sump area. The enclosure needs to be lifted an inch or so. Going to see if there is a procedure for this in the TM to confirm. (No, not a real good procedure. And as LITD wrote, its simply easier to do it the way he told you, OTHER then if you want to tear it all out and do a max clean and repair job. Its a PITA. If you are going to do the bearing, then take it all apart )
If so, I'm leaning toward completely removing all body panels, or most, since that bearing should be replaced to and it would be easier with everything out of the way as well. REALLY don't want to be doing all this, but, doing it right is well, right.
I'm just going to completly clean it up for now and move it out of the way a bit. I'm a bit irritated with it. Going to go back to the other generator and do a couple things to it and get it perfected.
If so, I'm leaning toward completely removing all body panels, or most, since that bearing should be replaced to and it would be easier with everything out of the way as well. REALLY don't want to be doing all this, but, doing it right is well, right.
I'm just going to completly clean it up for now and move it out of the way a bit. I'm a bit irritated with it. Going to go back to the other generator and do a couple things to it and get it perfected.
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- Wilson County, Texas
Yes, I planned to put the well nut and stuff on then fill it while it is outside of the generator to be sure it is good before installing it.
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- Wilson County, Texas
So, I'm thinking what might have happened with this is that the nut may be getting a little hung up by the metal enclosure of the generator and making the well nut not seat properly. That hole is not big enough to work in. I ran into this on another MEP 802A that I am working on. I still am going to remove the tank to be 100% sure.
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Going to do this upgrade as well;
Brass Tee Upgrade - https://ebay.us/9FQoXh
Replacement fuel return line - https://ebay.us/j6ICBM
Brass Tee Upgrade - https://ebay.us/9FQoXh
Replacement fuel return line - https://ebay.us/j6ICBM
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I didn't give up on this project. Just have a lot of stuff going on. It's moving up on the list though, simply because I put it in my garage so it would annoy me until it was done.
Ray70
Well-known member
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- West greenwich/RI
To confirm above regarding tank removal, you can not remove the tank without unbolting the whole radiator housing.
There isn't enough room to tilt it out with the radiator support in place because of the dropped sump area.
Or at least I've never gotten on to come out!
There isn't enough room to tilt it out with the radiator support in place because of the dropped sump area.
Or at least I've never gotten on to come out!
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- Wilson County, Texas
I think when I pull the tank on this one, I am going to make a video for my YouTube channel on it. It will go along with the brass well nut upgrade. Probably not a full walk through, but show where all the pesky hardware is you might miss, about how much it needs to be lifted, and all the "notes" that are good to know before diving in. Just another thing on the to-do list. Haha
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Started digging in a bit more a little at a time after work each day this week.
Got the tank out. I don't think it was actually bad, but that the brass well nut was not seating properly being so hard to get at. Was nasty in there, so I swapped it with the clean one anyways.
New gaskets on the tank. My fuel return line, brass tank nuts, and brass fuel return line T's all installed.
In general, cleaned & neatened things up. New hardware going in as it is going together. I found a source for stainless captured nuts, so the missing & rusted ones on this unit will be replaced. Not cheap! But, I ordered in bulk.
Found the rubber connection from the fuel tank neck to the fuel cap neck had a good tear in it. Seems to be an impossible part to find. So, I have a few things on the way to try & make work.
Body is mostly bolted back together. While it is at this stage, I think I am going to replace the thermostat. It is much easier to do with everything off & is a cheap job. Then, when load testing, will do a coolant system flush & clean.
If all goes well, this SHOULD be back together by this weekend. Then, I just need to worry about that bearing.
Got the tank out. I don't think it was actually bad, but that the brass well nut was not seating properly being so hard to get at. Was nasty in there, so I swapped it with the clean one anyways.
New gaskets on the tank. My fuel return line, brass tank nuts, and brass fuel return line T's all installed.
In general, cleaned & neatened things up. New hardware going in as it is going together. I found a source for stainless captured nuts, so the missing & rusted ones on this unit will be replaced. Not cheap! But, I ordered in bulk.
Found the rubber connection from the fuel tank neck to the fuel cap neck had a good tear in it. Seems to be an impossible part to find. So, I have a few things on the way to try & make work.
Body is mostly bolted back together. While it is at this stage, I think I am going to replace the thermostat. It is much easier to do with everything off & is a cheap job. Then, when load testing, will do a coolant system flush & clean.
If all goes well, this SHOULD be back together by this weekend. Then, I just need to worry about that bearing.
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- Wilson County, Texas
I did do some recording, & plan to put a video up. I will share it here when I get to editing it.
loosegravel
Just a retired mechanic who's having fun!
- 504
- 892
- 93
- Location
- Enumclaw, Washington
Great job on your videos! I’ve watched all of yours I’m pretty sure.
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- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
Got the generator as put together as I can at this point. Waiting for parts to come in before I can move any farther. Finding something that will work as a replacement for the rubber connector from the tank to cap neck is not easy with it being odd sizes.
My battery hold down cross over worked out though. The only change that needs to happen is the threaded rod needs to be cut down about 3 inches. It could be left as it is, but I wouldn't want to chance it shifting & going into the generator. There are shorter ones available & I will share links to that.
Here are some links for what I got for battery hold downs;
https://amzn.to/3q0TbDT
The above link comes with everything. I got one with just the bar, and got the J hooks separate. I can't confirm that the ones that come with it are long enough. If they are, it works out great! If not, grab what is below.
https://amzn.to/3Nd7ora - Hold down J hooks, stainless
I forgot that the water pump & everything looked basically new on this, so I changed my mind on the thermostat change out.
Put covers on the battery terminals and did some general neatening up & replaced hardware.
Battery terminal covers - https://amzn.to/3Orz9gj
Fuel return lines & T's are all done. Tank has been sitting with fuel in it for a week and hasn't leaked. So, it seems that repair is a success!
Primed it up & it started up no problems. Hopefully the parts to get it fully put back together come in soon & fit as I'm sick or returning stuff!
Then I get to pull that bearing. Fun!
My battery hold down cross over worked out though. The only change that needs to happen is the threaded rod needs to be cut down about 3 inches. It could be left as it is, but I wouldn't want to chance it shifting & going into the generator. There are shorter ones available & I will share links to that.
Here are some links for what I got for battery hold downs;
https://amzn.to/3q0TbDT
The above link comes with everything. I got one with just the bar, and got the J hooks separate. I can't confirm that the ones that come with it are long enough. If they are, it works out great! If not, grab what is below.
https://amzn.to/3Nd7ora - Hold down J hooks, stainless
I forgot that the water pump & everything looked basically new on this, so I changed my mind on the thermostat change out.
Put covers on the battery terminals and did some general neatening up & replaced hardware.
Battery terminal covers - https://amzn.to/3Orz9gj
Fuel return lines & T's are all done. Tank has been sitting with fuel in it for a week and hasn't leaked. So, it seems that repair is a success!
Primed it up & it started up no problems. Hopefully the parts to get it fully put back together come in soon & fit as I'm sick or returning stuff!
Then I get to pull that bearing. Fun!
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I have OEM sets available complete too: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threa...02a-or-mep-803a-88-20055-and-88-20060.208979/
uniquify
Active member
- 228
- 223
- 43
- Location
- Sioux Falls, SD
I remember a post a few years back about using a Fernco coupler (rubber plumbing fitting). It's not perfect, but it could be better than nothing.
Edit - Here's the post:
803 fuel filler rubber gasket
Just thought I'd let the group know about a fix I found today for the fuel fill rubber that seems to be rotted on some of these. A fernco fitting, 4" cast iron to 4" copper, works perfect to replace these. Probably won't find this one in the box stores, but it can be picked up at any plumbing...
www.steelsoldiers.com
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Dang bud, I swear when I look way back, I thought the price for both was for each. I'd have just gotten a set from you. I will add a set for the MEP 803A to the list, as I will need some for it as well.
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- Wilson County, Texas
The 3rd attempt for a rubber coupler worked out. It may expand a bit, but it certainly is better than nothing.
Link to reducer;
https://amzn.to/45JiIlu
Have to trim about as much off the 4.5 inch side as the hose clamp is, and then notch a slight bit on the 5 inch side that will be against the tank so it will go all the way down. I completely forgot to take a few pictures of it installed., but once I had that back cover on, I refused to remove it again just for a picture!
Everything is put back together, minus the spring & rubber pad I will be getting from @Light in the Dark . Will be easy to remove the top and put that in.
Now, to replace that bearing even though it has stopped squeaking!
Link to reducer;
https://amzn.to/45JiIlu
Have to trim about as much off the 4.5 inch side as the hose clamp is, and then notch a slight bit on the 5 inch side that will be against the tank so it will go all the way down. I completely forgot to take a few pictures of it installed., but once I had that back cover on, I refused to remove it again just for a picture!
Everything is put back together, minus the spring & rubber pad I will be getting from @Light in the Dark . Will be easy to remove the top and put that in.
Now, to replace that bearing even though it has stopped squeaking!
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- 3,829
- 5,940
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- Location
- MA
- 1,026
- 1,475
- 113
- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
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- 1,026
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Well, over the past few days, I started working at the bearing change out. Besides annoying, not that bad.
Got everything exposed, then off in a total of a few hours. Some of the body hardware needed to be cut off. Stainless wasn't used it seems. Got a puller set from Harbor Freight Tools and is just barley worked. Everything as of this evening is off & the new bearing is getting cold in the freezer so it will go on easy tomorrow hopefully.
EDIT: This set may have worked a little better. https://amzn.to/3og3eoc
Got everything exposed, then off in a total of a few hours. Some of the body hardware needed to be cut off. Stainless wasn't used it seems. Got a puller set from Harbor Freight Tools and is just barley worked. Everything as of this evening is off & the new bearing is getting cold in the freezer so it will go on easy tomorrow hopefully.
EDIT: This set may have worked a little better. https://amzn.to/3og3eoc
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loosegravel
Just a retired mechanic who's having fun!
- 504
- 892
- 93
- Location
- Enumclaw, Washington
Just wondering what the indications were that told you the bearing was bad. Noisy I suppose? Hoping the new bearing goes on easily for you. Normally on an interference fit the outer part gets heated and the inner part gets cooled to make them go together without too much fuss. In this case the outer part is the bearing, so cooling it in the freezer I believe is going to have the opposite affect that you’re looking for.