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Fuse Block

mike634

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
95
49
18
Location
Sussex New Jersey
Looks like during the local Memorial Day parade the fuse block where the 30 amp headlight fuse decided to melt. Now I have no headlights, taillights or turn signals. Has anyone tackeled this fix and how did you go about it? Also any idea where to find a new fuse block if that's the best rout to go?
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,266
1,782
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Replacing the fuse block means pretty much every wire inside the truck has to be removed and then installed again. I have done it. If you are going to do that, upgrade to a Painless 18 circuit or something similar is my opinion. The 12/24 volt stuff can be made to work.

However, you can also solder a wire to each of the metal tabs inside your burned up fuse area and with female wire ends plug a fuse into the wires to make everything work again.

One of my trucks did the exact same thing as yours. Some precision dental pick work bent the tabes Anouilh for a fuse to work in the stock spot and I have had no issues for about 15 years now.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I have had great success in splitting the fuse box and the bulkhead connector from under the hood. once I have this split, I split the fuse box and replace the 2 circuits that are serviced by the power leg in the fuse box with 2 inline fuses. The one is the brake lights and the 30 amp all lights circuit. I have also wired a 30-amp circuit breaker on a few. That is your choice.
CUCVRUS Repair Projects | Page 17 | SteelSoldiers

CUCVRUS Repair Projects | Page 17 | SteelSoldiers

CUCVRUS Repair Projects | Page 17 | SteelSoldiers

I only had 30-amp fuses, so I used them on both. The brake light circuit is served by the same power leg in the fuse box so I just eliminated both of the fuse slots and replaced them with inline fuse holders. It has never blown since.
 
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