Just bought a Deuce...

[G744]

Hey, if it's not a rust bucket, there is nothing too hard to get fixed there.

Having a winch is a very good deal there.

What kind of goofy headlight is that?

 

[banditt1979]

Wow... that was FAST! Hopefully, I will learn all of this over time. I can't wait to bring my truck home. I hope to pick it up soon. The seller stated that it needs "Brake Work" and has a "Bad U-Joint", so I will have to fix that stuff first. Hopefully, I will be able to get a copy of the "Parts Spreadsheet" offered by Simp5782. I tried to download the spreadsheet, but I was unsuccessful. I am willing to bet the part number for the U-Joint will be on that list. As for what "Brake Work" means, I have no idea.

Be sure to check on the passenger side of the engine for the engine tag. Gubmint snuck an LDS engine into my truck

 

[HDN]

What kind of goofy headlight is that?

That looks like a sealed beam-composite lamp adapter to me.

 

[rmesgt]

Be sure to check on the passenger side of the engine for the engine tag. Gubmint snuck an LDS engine into my truck

Will do... Near the front or back?

 

[cattlerepairman]

Will do... Near the front or back?

Passenger side, engine block tag riveted on, black and silver, partially obscured by exhaust or turbo.
It should say "MULTIFUEL" and then LDT or LDS. LD is also possible. While looking there, look for cast letters on the engine block, usually forward of this tag, that say "TD". This signifies a later, improved Thick Deck engine block casing.

While there, look at the gap between block and head. Do you see a pronounced gap with gasket tabs sticking out? Or is the gap filled by a headgasket? Tabs is old style headgasket and they are designed to oil from there. All Deuces blow head gaskets. Either yours already has (fixed) or it will (you get to fix).

All useful info to determine what you have and what you can expect to be working on.

Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

 

[NY Tom]

Today, I found out what "Needs Brake Work" means. There is absolutely no pedal pressure, as if there is no brake fluid. I spent time looking at the master cylinder, trying to figure out how to add brake fluid. Until now, I simply removed the cap, added the fluid, reset the rubber vacuum gasket, and reinstalled the cap. I thought I would do the same with my truck. Wrong Answer! I finally got the access door on the floor of the drivers side to open (thanks to WD-40). I reached down to open the cap on the master cylinder only to find a thin line threaded into the cap. I figured that it must be attached to a separate "fruit jar" or brake fluid reservoir but since I had no idea where it might be, I decided to follow the line from the cap to where ever it might end up. I crawled under the truck and followed this thin line into a TEE. So, now I am wondering how to check the brake fluid without having to remove this thin line. I have attached a pic showing this thin line that goes from the cap into the TEE. Ideas anyone?



View attachment 905082

You will need to remove this vent line to check/fill the brake fluid. I believe this went line runs to the tee and then up to the slobber tube on the engine. You can remove it but be sure to plug it at the tee. You can use the threaded hole on the top of the cap to install a line to a remote fluid reservoir after you finish all your other work.

 

[rmesgt]

Thank you for your response. I searched all over this truck and couldn't locate a remote fluid reservoir. I have read other posts of folks putting the remote reservoir behind the drivers seat. I was hoping to find that on my truck, but no success. Once I get it home, I will go over these brakes from front to rear and everywhere in between. After todays' work, I can see that I will need to pressure wash my undercarriage before I try to accomplish anything further...

 

[rmesgt]

Passenger side, engine block tag riveted on, black and silver, partially obscured by exhaust or turbo.
It should say "MULTIFUEL" and then LDT or LDS. LD is also possible. While looking there, look for cast letters on the engine block, usually forward of this tag, that say "TD". This signifies a later, improved Thick Deck engine block casing.

While there, look at the gap between block and head. Do you see a pronounced gap with gasket tabs sticking out? Or is the gap filled by a headgasket? Tabs is old style headgasket and they are designed to oil from there. All Deuces blow head gaskets. Either yours already has (fixed) or it will (you get to fix).

All useful info to determine what you have and what you can expect to be working on.

Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

I located the tag riveted to the block under the exhaust manifold, but any information that was on it has long since faded away. I saw some cast numbers below the tag, but the block is so oily I cannot see the casting info clearly. I think I saw the firing order in the cast numbers. I will print your message and put in my "To Do" list. When my truck gets home, I will pressure wash the PAX side of the block to capture the cast numbers. Thanks for the information. I will keep you posted...

 

[HDN]

You will need to remove this vent line to check/fill the brake fluid. I believe this went line runs to the tee and then up to the slobber tube on the engine. You can remove it but be sure to plug it at the tee. You can use the threaded hole on the top of the cap to install a line to a remote fluid reservoir after you finish all your other work.

Is that a common setup on the A2 and older trucks? The other old military trucks I've worked on never had a vent line piped through the fill cap on the master cylinder. The A3 is the only deuce I've worked on and it has a remote brake fluid reservoir.

 

[NY Tom]

Is that a common setup on the A2 and older trucks? The other old military trucks I've worked on never had a vent line piped through the fill cap on the master cylinder. The A3 is the only deuce I've worked on and it has a remote brake fluid reservoir.

It is common for the A2 I know. Needs a vent to prevent a vacuum from forming in the master cylinder. I never worked on an A3 but it has dual circuit brakes I believe so maybe they fitted a remote reservoir to them when they were built up? It is a PITA to check the brake fluid on the A2 unless you add the remote reservoir. I did all the work and bled the system using a pressure bleeder threaded into the original cap. After it was all done I hooked up the remote reservoir and filled it. Mine is just inside the door under the dashboard. Wanted to be able to see it easily while driving in case something broke and I got a leak I would hopefully notice the fluid level dropping.

I did not remove the metal parts on the bottom of the original master cylinder cap when I did the job. Others have said you need to do that but my experience so far it made no difference.

 

[williamh]

[
I did not remove the metal parts on the bottom of the original master cylinder cap when I did the job. Others have said you need to do that but my experience so far it made no difference.
[/QUOTE]

I think that fitting is a check valve. It may not let fluid into the master cylinder only lets air out. I could be wrong. Often am.

 

[rmesgt]

It is common for the A2 I know. Needs a vent to prevent a vacuum from forming in the master cylinder. I never worked on an A3 but it has dual circuit brakes I believe so maybe they fitted a remote reservoir to them when they were built up? It is a PITA to check the brake fluid on the A2 unless you add the remote reservoir. I did all the work and bled the system using a pressure bleeder threaded into the original cap. After it was all done I hooked up the remote reservoir and filled it. Mine is just inside the door under the dashboard. Wanted to be able to see it easily while driving in case something broke and I got a leak I would hopefully notice the fluid level dropping.

I did not remove the metal parts on the bottom of the original master cylinder cap when I did the job. Others have said you need to do that but my experience so far it made no difference.

Where did your source your remote reservoir kit? I want to add one to my truck, but I am not sure which one to get. There are hundreds on the net, and I suppose they all work the same so I guess it is a matter of preference. What do you recommend? As for a pressure bleeder, I have never used one. Is this a tool that can be rented from O'Reilly, AutoZone, Napa, etc?

Please advise... Any info you can provide is more than I already have... TIA

Peace in Christ...
Leo

 

[NY Tom]

Where did your source your remote reservoir kit? I want to add one to my truck, but I am not sure which one to get. There are hundreds on the net, and I suppose they all work the same so I guess it is a matter of preference. What do you recommend? As for a pressure bleeder, I have never used one. Is this a tool that can be rented from O'Reilly, AutoZone, Napa, etc?

Please advise... Any info you can provide is more than I already have... TIA

Peace in Christ...
Leo

You can buy one or make one.

I bought a 2" piece of galvanized pipe 18" long at HD. Then with reducers and little valves I made it so I could screw it in to the thread on top of the master cylinder cap. Filled it with brake fluid and attached it to the master. Opened the top and bottom valve to let the fluid run down inside and the air out. Then attached my compressed air line at 15 psi to pressurize the system.

Bled everything starting at the airpack. Worked perfectly. Lost a little oil removing the setup from the short pipe connection I had to the master. No biggie. Then I installed a generic remote reservoir. Put mine on the left under the dash where I could see it easily. Doesn't get in my way.

 

[rmesgt]

You can buy one or make one.

I bought a 2" piece of galvanized pipe 18" long at HD. Then with reducers and little valves I made it so I could screw it in to the thread on top of the master cylinder cap. Filled it with brake fluid and attached it to the master. Opened the top and bottom valve to let the fluid run down inside and the air out. Then attached my compressed air line at 15 psi to pressurize the system.

Bled everything starting at the airpack. Worked perfectly. Lost a little oil removing the setup from the short pipe connection I had to the master. No biggie. Then I installed a generic remote reservoir. Put mine on the left under the dash where I could see it easily. Doesn't get in my way.

This is GENIUS! I never used (or built) a pressure bleeder before, so I see my work is cut out for me. Can you point to the TM that has the directions for bleeding the brake system? From what everybody says, you have to bleed the airpack first, then onto the wheel cylinders.... Your thoughts???

 

[Aussie Bloke]

G'day everyone,.....

More like 10' :v

I think its more like 18,000 + pages,....

It a good read,...

Chicks dig an educated man!


Aussie.

 

[Aussie Bloke]

G'day everyone,....

I searched all over this truck and couldn't locate a remote fluid reservoir. I have read other posts of folks putting the remote reservoir behind the drivers seat.

Mines on the fire wall in the engine bay in the corner.



Aussie.