Log of my M1165. Project Joshua.

[TOBASH]

I posted in the StSo classifieds that I wanted a non-runner to work on. RWH replied and had a beauty. It awaits the EUC, but I assume it will be sent sometime within the next four months.

M1165. HMC4 hardtop. No EESS, and needs alternator regulator for 200 amp. Fluids were drained with holes in the fuel cell and tranny and cut brake lines. Blown power steering hose pressure side. Fuel filter assembly missing. Engine can be manually rotated.

She was just delivered to my buddy where she was secured. As she was being delivered, they noticed two coiled rattle snakes. Gonna have to think of a name based on that.

As a post like this is useless without pictures, please accept the following. I’ll post more as I go through and fix her.

 

[Maxjeep1]

I think it’s just like mine. I have a missile truck or at least that’s what the tag says. Mine doesn’t run either but it will be amazing when it does. I ordered all of the b-pillar stuff from Mac Motors.

 

[Maxjeep1]

I posted in the StSo classifieds that I wanted a non-runner to work on. RWH replied and had a beauty. It awaits the EUC, but I assume it will be sent sometime within the next four months.

M1165. HMC4 hardtop. No EESS, and needs alternator regulator for 200 amp. Fluids were drained with holes in the fuel cell and tranny and cut brake lines. Blown power steering hose pressure side. Fuel filter assembly missing. Engine can be manually rotated.

She was just delivered to my buddy where she was secured. As she was being delivered, they noticed two coiled rattle snakes. Gonna have to think of a name based on that.

As a post like this is useless without pictures, please accept the following. I’ll post more as I go through and fix her.

View attachment 869505

Snake bit? Snake oil? Venom? Snake tales? Tale of 2 snakes? Once bit? bloodletting? Good looking truck!

 

[TOBASH]

I think it’s just like mine. I have a missile truck or at least that’s what the tag says. Mine doesn’t run either but it will be amazing when it does. I ordered all of the b-pillar stuff from Mac Motors. View attachment 869506

WOW!!! They are twins! Down to the two fuel can receivers on the drivers’ side fender.

 

[Maxjeep1]

WOW!!! They are twins! Down to the two fuel can receivers on the drivers’ side fender.

I don’t think they have very many of them with out armor. They are a weird model and that’s what I liked about it. I believe they are the most civilian looking model and you get the tach, ac and turbo without the gear driven fan or whatever it is. I believe I need injection pump and that will fix my issues.

 

[tomelroy]

Twice shy.....non runners, the way of the future!

 

[TOBASH]

After uncounted delays, Hummer H1 finally lost a bet with his girlfriend because I showed up in California ready to work!

New power steering hose installed.

New batteries installed and wires and such cleaned and dielectric greased.

New regulator installed.

New fuel filter installed.

Genius Box installed. Works perfectly to bypass the missing smart box and missing TCU.

Fuel lift pump was spitting out old crappy fuel ie.: it works.

Tranny light comes on and seems to be OK.

Oiled up engine and spun it slowly for short periods of time. Engine spins like a champ.

All gauges light up and seem to work.

Best part was traveling to scenic California and working with Eric/Hummer H1.

Tomorrow is replacing fuel cell and replacing brake lines and then bleeding it all.

 

[jeffhuey1n]

Snake bit? Snake oil? Venom? Snake tales? Tale of 2 snakes? Once bit? bloodletting? Good looking truck!

I like Venom. That was an awesome movie!

 

[NDT]

So you gonna drive it back?

 

[Guyfang]

Snake Bit. Yep, Snake Bit.

 

[TOBASH]

Well… bugger!

IP is bad. Don’t know if woodruff key sheared or shaft broke.

Engine was turning over and periodically slowed down. Then there was a metallic ping and the starter engine speed sped up. I spoke to Steve/RWH, and he gave me some amazing information which I used to see that the cams in the IP were not spinning.

As far as opening, the IP, two of the screws did not wish to open so they stripped. I purchased a Dremel and cut flat slots across the top of the two screws. That allowed us to use a flat head screwdriver to open the top of the injection pump. Unfortunately there was no saving this pump.
I did some other minor work on the vehicle, but the major problem is that I need an injection pump and possibly a woodruff key overnighted to me.

Tomorrow I will replace the brake lines and fix the deep fording exhaust, which was sabotaged by the motor pool before sale.

 

[TOBASH]

Pics of what to do when you strip a hex head…

Dremmel mini-disk to rip a straight line across the top of the stripped head, then use a flat head to twist out.

 

[NDT]

Rwh will tell you it’s best to replace those crusty old IPs before you get stranded somewhere. No point in opening it.

 

[TOBASH]

Rwh will tell you it’s best to replace those crusty old IPs before you get stranded somewhere. No point in opening it.

He did. I was hard headed.

 

[Guyfang]

One step at a time. One step at a time. You are getting there. Even though it seems like it one step forward, and two backwards, in the end, you will have the truck YOU want.

 

[TOBASH]

One step at a time. One step at a time. You are getting there. Even though it seems like it one step forward, and two backwards, in the end, you will have the truck YOU want.

It’s more like the frustration of a kid waiting to open his birthday presents BUT the birthday is a week away. This IP was toast years ago. I was warned when I purchased this non-running vehicle that the IP was probably shot. It was worth a chance trying to get it going in order to save $2000, however in this case that IP was DOA years ago. I have no regrets. This is an amazing rig with HMC4 top and it is super solid and super complete. Just a few hiccups.

I learned a lot just by troubleshooting and fighting to pull the cover. Clichèd but “It’s not the destination, it’s the adventure.”

The TSU / (temp sending unit for the PCB) was missing. My Genius Box restification of the PCB doesn’t need a TSU, but the water jacket does as a plug.

On the drivers’ side of these engines is a temp sensor with two packard plugs. It fits the hole just fine. I got mine from a donor engine Hummer H1 had lying around. It’s now just a plug.

Today we will wrestle with removing the bad IP, replacing cut brake lines, replacing the scuttled deep fording exhaust support, and maybe POR some mild rust in the HMC4 top.

New IP is on the way.

Shout out to RWH for his amazing support. This is why you always purchase a vehicle from a known vendor on the classifieds. I strongly support the classifieds here at Steel Soldiers Forum.

 

[TOBASH]

IP external nuts are removed. Three internal bolts removed and the timing gear is clocked properly. Tomorrow we will remove injector lines and fuel inlet line.

Looks like time to pull the intake manifolds.

 

[TOBASH]

Received IP. Engine is full of external sand. Will power wash tomorrow. IP itself is loosened with 6 lines of the 9 removed.

Gonna make a hole and tap the crossover in anticipation of water injection while the intake manifold is off. Gonna tap another for boost pressure sensor.

 

[TOBASH]

A modicum of success. Now to get the new one in.

 

[TOBASH]

Things learned so far:

Open the IP on all new-to-me trucks. If it is frozen, just replace it and keep the unit as a core.

Spray clean the snot out of the engine, especially the valley before removing the heads. Made things super easy to see and prevents sand falling into the intakes.

Loosen all injector lines from their screws and their insertions in the engine to make moving them easy. Remove the plastic injector holders and curse at them frequently.

Have a spare set of injector lines on hand in case one corkscrews.

PB blast everything.

Have a pipe available as a breaker bar.

Lots of plastic Chinese food type soup bowls on hand to keep removed nuts and bolts.

Take lots of reference pictures before disassembly.

Keep the swear jar close at hand.