Kraus & Naimer Boat Rotary Control Generator Switch Terminal USM183 | Blue 10A
Boat part number 1102855 is a new rotary control switch terminal from Kraus & Naimer, part number USM183 .
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Master Switch MEP 803a replacement compatibility?
- Thread starter Sapporo
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Which switch location are you trying to cross? S1?
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But I would say no, as all switches have custom layout with internal bridges to work with the wiring harness as designed.
Master Switch won't engage starter. Just clicks once and nothing happens. If I recycle the switch back and forth it will eventually turn over and start. Saw this switch online and was wondering if I could use it as a replacement.
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The switch in the first post will NOT replace your S1 Master Start switch.
I assume your S1 switch is a blue plastic one. Failure prone for sure.
Ideally, you'd want to replace it with an Electro Switch 75902LV. They will last a lifetime, but are pricey.
You could replace it with a 88-21160 5930-01-368-5160 for less money but they aren't too reliable.
Both available on the big auction site.
I assume your S1 switch is a blue plastic one. Failure prone for sure.
Ideally, you'd want to replace it with an Electro Switch 75902LV. They will last a lifetime, but are pricey.
You could replace it with a 88-21160 5930-01-368-5160 for less money but they aren't too reliable.
Both available on the big auction site.
Thank you Sir. What is the big auction site?
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ebay
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Before you start throwing cash at a new switch, you should not only deoxidize the one you have (my recommendation is
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006LVEU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1), but also reference the TM.
TM 9-6115-641-24 has a troubleshooting section. You want to view Table 2-6. UNIT TROUBLESHOOTING "1. ENGINE FAILS TO CRANK." and go through the steps. You may find after the switch is cleaned... its not the switch.
TMs are free... if you don't have a copy, you can download them from the TM section here on the site.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006LVEU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1), but also reference the TM.
TM 9-6115-641-24 has a troubleshooting section. You want to view Table 2-6. UNIT TROUBLESHOOTING "1. ENGINE FAILS TO CRANK." and go through the steps. You may find after the switch is cleaned... its not the switch.
TMs are free... if you don't have a copy, you can download them from the TM section here on the site.
So do I need to take the s
So do I need to take the switch apart to clean it?
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No, but loosening each lead so the spray can get into everywhere is where I start... As well as the end of the switch opposite of the gauge panel. Remember to disconnect the batteries first, and soak that puppy! Exercise the switch till you get bored, then do it a few more times. Reconnect and reenergize after a little while and see if the condition improves.
Ray70
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Another thing I've done before cleaning the contacts ( on all switches ) is to blow them out good with an air compressor and a fine point air gun.
Some of the machines that came back from Kuwait etc. were full of this super fine pinkish sand/dust.
Not sure if it made any difference or not, but I was worried that the cleaner may turn the dust into mud if it didn't rinse out completely.
Some of the machines that came back from Kuwait etc. were full of this super fine pinkish sand/dust.
Not sure if it made any difference or not, but I was worried that the cleaner may turn the dust into mud if it didn't rinse out completely.
Jeepadict
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I second this motion...Deoxit is some amazing sauce, I've been pleasantly surprised every time I use it. Reccomend a soak and multi-cycle treatment to the other rotary switches while you're there, it's like WD-40 for switches/contacts!
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
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You have tested this switch? Right? You really haven't troubleshot anything, or if you have, haven't written it here. I would clean the switch, because thats the way I am. But are you 100% sure thats the whole problem?
Thanks for all the feedback. The problem turned out to be the oil pressure sensor. I noticed that the oil pressure gauge was reading all over the place so at first I thought I'd change it out . Then after giving it some thought I figured if the gauge was bad it would either be stuck somewhere or not reading at all. So
that's when I decided to change out the pressure sensor. Starts right up every time now and reads a solid 58 psi . The old one would dip below 20 and everywhere above and below. Again thanks for the feedback have a great New Year!