• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

leaking injector line

Finnegan1008

Active member
144
164
43
Location
Connecticut
I was working on the truck today and realized I have a single injector line that is wet where it joins the pump. The truck starts perfectly but has a miss when it's idling. I assume these two things may be related.

the rest of the pump is bone dry but there is now a mess in the valley

questions:

If I crack that line open at the injector and see no difference in idle quality is it safe to assume I have found my problem? Is there a better way to diagnose?

Would swapping in a clear return line also be useful? I've heard some say any bubbles and you've got a problem. Would air be telling mmy return lines are leaking?

Since its only leaking at the union should I try to re-torque the line? Or send the pump out for rebuild? New lines? I really don't want to get into this thing twice.

Lastly if I do need a rebuilt pump, who is a reputable source? Again I realllyyyy don't want to do this twice.
 

Finnegan1008

Active member
144
164
43
Location
Connecticut
This where a set of crow foot wrenches come in handy for the lower lines. (it probably is a lower one :) )
You must be psychic! Yes it’s the on one the bottom.

I suppose to torque that line the manifold would have to come off? I think I already know the answer but I figured I’d ask before tearing into it
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
940
687
93
Location
Rochester NY
You must be psychic! Yes it’s the on one the bottom.

I suppose to torque that line the manifold would have to come off? I think I already know the answer but I figured I’d ask before tearing into it
Nope, it can be done with the mani in place. It's not easy , you will need some crows foot wrenches (i don't remember size) and some 3/8 drive extensions a 3/8 drive ratchet and some patience. Remove the air cleaner and using the extensions, go in from the back, you can't get much of a turn at a time and it's awkward as hell and to keep from dropping stuff , tape the extensions together.
I couldn't find the correct size so I took a cheap Harbor Freight one and did some grinding on it to fit, I also ground some on the outside of the jaws to get a little more 'turn'. After all was down I stood there patting myself on the back for a job well done, I realized it would have been so much easier if I had've used 1/4" drive! HF sell a set of socket adapters and one is a 1/4" female to 3/8" male. Hope this helps, please let us know!
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
If you do remove the manifold to get to it the lines come off in pairs. Do not loosen the support clamps on the lines. If you remove in pairs you will not require any special wrenches.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks