MEP-06A reverse power warning and ckt brkr light stays lit

[Guyfang]

You have to start looking someplace, and the pumps are the most easy place to start. Simply putt the two plugs apart, and try and start and run the set.

And about 90% of the time, the pumps are the reason the CB1 pops. Pull the plug out of the alternator. Another place that can cause the problem.

10 seconds is a long time. I can not think of anything in the set that kicks in at 10 seconds. Are you sure of the amount of time it takes to pop?

 

[Roadrunner concrete]

You have to start looking someplace, and the pumps are the most easy place to start. Simply putt the two plugs apart, and try and start and run the set.

And about 90% of the time, the pumps are the reason the CB1 pops. Pull the plug out of the alternator. Another place that can cause the problem.

10 seconds is a long time. I can not think of anything in the set that kicks in at 10 seconds. Are you sure of the amount of time it takes to pop?

Nope I am not sure if its 10 seconds. I will check the fuel pump and then disconnect the alternator. Do a once over on the wiring harness, I hear that the wiring on the oil pressure switch can be tight and can pull. appreciate the direction to start.

 

[Guyfang]

Also, and I had a like problem in the late 70's, open all the side doors to run it. If it runs without popping the CB1, then go to the left rear side door and look for places where the wire harness has worn through and arcs to the door. Another good place to check is the hole in the relay table, where your wire harness goes down. The hole is supposed to have a plastic ring in it, to keep the wires from shorting out on the sharp edges or the hole. Its often missing.

 

[Roadrunner concrete]

Also, and I had a like problem in the late 70's, open all the side doors to run it. If it runs without popping the CB1, then go to the left rear side door and look for places where the wire harness has worn through and arcs to the door. Another good place to check is the hole in the relay table, where your wire harness goes down. The hole is supposed to have a plastic ring in it, to keep the wires from shorting out on the sharp edges or the hole. Its often missing.

once again I appreciate the direction. will look today.

 

[Roadrunner concrete]

So It is the second fuel pump. the one that is closest to the tanks on the side of the machine. I unplugged both of them and It didn't pop so I plugged them in individually and it started smoking... I figured that is a good indication.
NSN 2910-00-930-9367 ,MS 5132-2
Facet Part # 480517
Onan Part # 149-1105
I disconnected the second fuel pump and it runs just fine now. but I am still not getting power. I can hear and feel the CB clicking when I open and close it.

 

[Guyfang]

OK, if the Pump is the right type, it will pass fuel through a dead pump. So you are good to go running the set long term.

Start the set. When its running, what is on the AC volt meter? Do you have 120 volts at the 120 VAC outlet? Then, push the S3 up. The DS-6 should come on. The CB2 HAS TO be closed if DS-6 is illuminated. Then measure at the output load terminals for AC volts. What do you have.

 

[Guyfang]

So It is the second fuel pump. the one that is closest to the tanks on the side of the machine. I unplugged both of them and It didn't pop so I plugged them in individually and it started smoking... I figured that is a good indication.
NSN 2910-00-930-9367 ,MS 5132-2
Facet Part # 480517
Onan Part # 149-1105
I disconnected the second fuel pump and it runs just fine now. but I am still not getting power. I can hear and feel the CB clicking when I open and close it.

When looking for a fuel pump, be sure to get the RIGHT one. Not one that looks like it. The right one. Not all E-pumps will pass fuel when they are dead. Get the wrong one, and your set will run about 15-20 min, and then the day tank will be dry, and the get set will shut off, if one of the pumps dies on you.

Take the fuel filter, gasket, and magnet out of the dead pump before you toss it out. Never can tell when you might drop a part down into the set, and not be able to get at it.

 

[Roadrunner concrete]

When looking for a fuel pump, be sure to get the RIGHT one. Not one that looks like it. The right one. Not all E-pumps will pass fuel when they are dead. Get the wrong one, and your set will run about 15-20 min, and then the day tank will be dry, and the get set will shut off, if one of the pumps dies on you.

Take the fuel filter, gasket, and magnet out of the dead pump before you toss it out. Never can tell when you might drop a part down into the set, and not be able to get at it.

Yes I notice that they are 24v and full flow through even when dead. So with one pump running will push through the second one.

 

[Guyfang]

Look here. Its also on the doors of the set.

 

[Roadrunner concrete]

OK, if the Pump is the right type, it will pass fuel through a dead pump. So you are good to go running the set long term.

Start the set. When its running, what is on the AC volt meter? Do you have 120 volts at the 120 VAC outlet? Then, push the S3 up. The DS-6 should come on. The CB2 HAS TO be closed if DS-6 is illuminated. Then measure at the output load terminals for AC volts. What do you have.

Started the set There is nothing on the AC meter, Do not have 120 at the 120 convenience receptacle.
When I Close the circuit breaker (push the S3 up, the DS-6 (circuit breaker light) does not come on.

 

[Guyfang]

OK, You do have the manual throttle screwed out, so the engine is running about the right speed? Did the meters come up and then go down real fast? Like, they come up, hit the end of the scale and go down again? Or they flat out did NOTHING? The S9, (Speed switch) controls the initial excitation. So if the meters do not react at all, you need to see if S9 is working

This is going to be my last post tonight. Its 00:35. So hurry if you can.

 

[Roadrunner concrete]

OK, You do have the manual throttle screwed out, so the engine is running about the right speed? Did the meters come up and then go down real fast? Like, they come up, hit the end of the scale and go down again? Or they flat out did NOTHING? The S9, (Speed switch) controls the initial excitation. So if the meters do not react at all, you need to see if S9 is working

This is going to be my last post tonight. Its 00:35. So hurry if you can.

yes meters come up and then drop when i release the start run switch. yes the manual run speed throttle is in about the correct place.

 

[Guyfang]

That tells me your S9 works. You probably need a new, or rebuilt static exciter.

 

[Roadrunner concrete]

That tells me your S9 works. You probably need a new, or rebuilt static exciter.

can I test that? go to bed no rush will do some reading and see what we see

 

[Guyfang]

Sure. Look in the -34 TM.

 

[Roadrunner concrete]

Sure. Look in the -34 TM.

ok, I have -34 tm open. I think I found what I am looking for on page 270 excitation system assembly figure 8-15. The testing procedure I am having trouble understanding. Probably my lack of knowledge.
Think I found the nsn# for replacement I found the regulator nsn 6110-00-030-7815 for 100.00 NOS
The excitation assembly ns 6115-00-244-1214 I cant seem to find, I did find a rebuild kit to go solid state through OES oshkosh but its 1,400 dollars.

 

[Roadrunner concrete]

ok, I have -34 tm open. I think I found what I am looking for on page 270 excitation system assembly figure 8-15. The testing procedure I am having trouble understanding. Probably my lack of knowledge.
Think I found the nsn# for replacement I found the regulator nsn 6110-00-030-7815 for 100.00 NOS
The excitation assembly ns 6115-00-244-1214 I cant seem to find, I did find a rebuild kit to go solid state through OES oshkosh but its 1,400 dollars.

Think I found a supplier for MEP generator parts Delks army navy surplus (336) 629-0991

 

[Roadrunner concrete]

Think I found a supplier for MEP generator parts Delks army navy surplus (336) 629-0991

Have you ever switched out the excitation assembly for a aftermarket piece? Its cheaper, but stated that sometimes you have to give it a little excitation

 

[Roadrunner concrete]

Have you ever switched out the excitation assembly for a aftermarket piece? Its cheaper, but stated that sometimes you have to give it a little excitation

So I installed an ADVR-054 , I excited it with a little tickle is working perfect. Was an extremely simple install 5 wires. I do appreciate all the help getting it dialed in.

 

[Guyfang]

Some of these sets are older than most of the SS crew. Its time to start thinking about that.