MEP-002 pump problem

[Guyfang]

Well, you can test the rheostat, and if its in spec, then It sounds like the VR may have a problem. I would also check the terminals on the VR and look at wires to the VR.

 

[Chainbreaker]

...I mentioned earlier in this thread that when running, my AC voltage was off... At startup today, I found this was still the case. I read 160v and 320v where I should have read 120v and 240v. Voltage adjust knob did nothing.
Fast forward an hour of running when I went out to check on it, it was showing normal 120v/240v. Also the voltage adjust knob was now working. At this point I put a 1500w heater on and ran it for another 20mins.
Form reading the forum it sounds like if something happens in the voltage adjust circuit, it will just go to full voltage? In this case 160v/320v? It sounds like other 002 or 003 owners have had the voltage go to 160v/320v and a new AC VR did not fix it. Maybe I should start a new post on this issue hahah. I really appreciate everyone's input in this thread.

Sounds like an intermittent electrical issue somewhere in the AC voltage regulation circuit. The MEP-002a being a 2-cylinder diesel with both pistons rotating in unison creates substantial vibration. The rubber/metal "Control Cabinet" isolators used to mount the cabinet do go bad eventually & can be replaced to better dampen those vibrations. You can observe shaking/vibrating of the Control Cabinet when they go bad. With that kind of vibrating environment along with typical age & use over time it could either be a failing component electrically, or an intermittent electro/mechanical wiring contact issue.

My primary house genset once failed during an extended Power Outage (fortunately I had a spare genset to roll in ) with AC voltage suddenly shooting high. I ordered & then replaced the Voltage Regulator Circuit Board and no help; the problem was still there. Turns out it was a small broken transformer winding wire coming out of the Control Panel's T1 transformer's winding to a screw tab terminal wire lug that the wiring harness attached to on that transformer inside the control box. Something similar to that might explain an intermittent issue as you are experiencing with erratic voltage swings now & then.

If you were to buy Kloppk's VR board & it doesn't remedy the issue it will eliminate your current OEM board & all its components as a possibility. It's good to have a "spare VR" on hand even if it turns out to not be anything on the OEM VR board. I'm running with Triple Jim's upgraded VR board. Later Kloppk obtained the rights to carry on the production when Triple Jim retired, so it's a solid well tested design apparently with Kloppk's recent PCB/component upgrades/revisions.

 

[Offgrid12]

I may go with the new VR board, like you guys say at least I'd have a spare. I did a visual inspection and check all the screw terminals.

I was thinking more about what may have caused the over speeding issue, and why bending down the governor arm seemed to cure it. I think I may know what my problem was all along. When I had the gear cover off for governor inspection, I also took the governor cup off the look at the fly ball assembly. When I had the governor cup off (round item with the 3 holes in it) there was a pretty significant groove in the cup where the fly balls contacted it. At the time I just thought it was normal. Sort of like in a bearing race where the ball bearings would ride. But, now after reading the TM it sounds like there should not be any groove.
I can see how this groove could throw things out of whack (it would cause the governor cup to not push out quite as far). As Ray70 was saying, this may be what bending the arm was compensating for.
I wish I had taken a picture and showed you guys, always in a hurry I guess. I was wondering if anyone had a spare sitting around they could see what the inside of that governor cup looks like to compare.

 

[Chainbreaker]

I may go with the new VR board, like you guys say at least I'd have a spare. I did a visual inspection and check all the screw terminals.

I was thinking more about what may have caused the over speeding issue, and why bending down the governor arm seemed to cure it. I think I may know what my problem was all along. When I had the gear cover off for governor inspection, I also took the governor cup off the look at the fly ball assembly. When I had the governor cup off (round item with the 3 holes in it) there was a pretty significant groove in the cup where the fly balls contacted it. At the time I just thought it was normal. Sort of like in a bearing race where the ball bearings would ride. But, now after reading the TM it sounds like there should not be any groove.
I can see how this groove could throw things out of whack (it would cause the governor cup to not push out quite as far). As Ray70 was saying, this may be what bending the arm was compensating for.
I wish I had taken a picture and showed you guys, always in a hurry I guess. I was wondering if anyone had a spare sitting around they could see what the inside of that governor cup looks like to compare.

Found a new one online & here's a picture of it if that helps. Never seen one myself, however it does appear to be mfg'd with a pretty deep race type of groove.

 

[Offgrid12]

Found a new one online & here's a picture of it if that helps. Never seen one myself, however it does appear to be mfg'd with a pretty deep race type of groove.

View attachment 914248
[/QUOTE

Found a new one online & here's a picture of it if that helps. Never seen one myself, however it does appear to be mfg'd with a pretty deep race type of groove.

View attachment 914248

Yes, that’s how mine looked… thanks for the picture. At least I know that’s how it should be.